[Motornoggin]

You seemed to discount it in your origional post, but you might want ot double check to make sure the distributor is not 180 out. The engine could run in that situation (I've done it twice ), it will run very poorly and have many of the symtoms you describe. Otherwise, it sonds as though the valve train might be too tight. Also did you check for valve to piston clearance? Should not be a problem with the cam you have, but with the way some parts (heads, block etc...) can be modified before you get hold of them, you never know until you check.
Also, just thinking here... Make sure the distributor is not even one or two teeth out, still would run, but only poorly. Good luck.

[ May 21, 2002, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: Motornoggin ]

[Tim Swain]

If all else fails remove timming cover and check to see if timming marks are alined. I know a machanic who lined up the wrong mark throwing it off two teeth and believe it or not, the engine ran. He set the timming fine and told his costomer it was a bad cam! There are two zeros on the bottom sprocket. You want it lined up with the large zero.
I would not advance that cam it should have GOBS of low end.

[68grandprix]

The distributor might be one or two teeth out, the guy seemed to have trouble putting it in, everytime he pushed it down it would turn and he would take it back out, turn it, and put it back in. I'll check it out but I don't know how to make sure it is right. How do I put the distributor in right?

[ May 21, 2002, 11:13 PM: Message edited by: 68grandprix ]

[Scott65]

The problem your mechanic was having, was the engagement of the distributor into the oil pump rod. When you drop the dist. in it can only go in when the dist. lines up with the pump rod. If this position does not coincide with the firing order, use a long screwdriver to rotate the oil pump rod in the direction it needs to go to line up in the firing order. Good luck getting it lined out.-Scott

[Lemans1]

To check it what you need to do is pull the #1 spark plug and rotate the engine so that the engine is at top dead center on the compression stroke.(#1 at tdc while mark on balancer is also at tdc on timing tab) Now pull the distributor cap off and check the position of the rotor. It should be pointing at the #1 terminal on the cap. It doesnt have to be dead on, a little either side of it is ok as moving the distributor one way or the other will correct that, you just need to be in the vicinity.
Only other suggestions I have is to go over the firing order again...I know it sounds simple, but many have screwed it up...as stated above..1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Trace each wire from the cap and be sure they go where they are supposed to. As far as the cam not picking up until 2500, thats normal. I have run that cam a couple times and it is a little lame until 25 then picks up hard. It actually needs a small convertor and gears. Maybe check the vacuum line to the tranny, be sure it didnt come off at the modulator. Good luck! We've all been there!

[68grandprix]

Thanks for all the advice, I'll get to work tomorrow(today)checking things. Hopefully I'll also be able to get out and get some new plug wires and a module for the HEI. Man I hope the distributor is just off so I don't have to deal with the impacted-on balancer and my lack of air tools(all I have is a 100andsomething craftsman tool set and a torque wrench). I also loaded on the gasket sealer per the mechanic's suggestion.Once again, I really appreciate all the help.

[Lemans1]

I hope you didnt load on the sealer too much. You dont really need that much. If you use too much to the point it "squeezes" into the block when you tighten everything up, it can eventually find its way into your oil pump pick up screen.

[bobcat]

68 GP, what part of Iowa are you in. If you are anywhere near Cedar Falls or Parkersburg, let me know because there are a couple of pontiac guys around there that would probably be more than willing to help you out. And if they can't, I know another guy that would probably help out.

[68grandprix]

I'm about 2 1/2 to 3 hours away from Cedar Falls. If I get desperate I might take you up on that offer.

[Tim Swain]

An other suggestion. After rotating motor to top dead center, on timming marks,(with all plugs out of course).Check number 1 hole and see if it is at top dead center.If the piston is down a bit, your timming chain is installed wrong.

[Brian Baker]

He ran the balancer bolt down with an air gun? "UNREAL"! I'd find another mechanic, this guys methods sound half-assed.

[george kujanski]

Was it ever determined if polylocks are being used as WArped mentrioned, or the standard bottle neck studs and nuts? If standard stuff is used, your valve adjustment is all over the place. It'll keep moving....

Regards, George

[68grandprix]

I'm using BBC 7/16 studs and crimp nuts.

[68grandprix]

I took out all the plugs, every single one is completely black. I all got the engine at TDC and the rotor is pointing a little more than 1/8" counterclockwise from the #1 sparkplug wire. Could this mean that the guy did install the distributor a tooth or so out out of place? If it does, how would I fix this? Also, tomorrow I'm getting plugs, wires, new points and condenser, should I get anything else for the distributor?

[Brian Baker]

Sounds like it could be installed retarded a tooth. Before pulling it, try rotating it clockwise with the engine running to see if the idle rpm increases. I know he said the timing was "OK" but go ahead and try this. Get a timing light and check it yourself. No sense in pulling the distributor if you can get it timed correctly by rotating it. Oh yea, new points, condensor, cap, rotor, wires and plugs wouldn't hurt.

[Lemans1]

But HEI would be better.