Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #41  
Old 05-31-2001, 07:48 AM
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Paul, my problem is......I was born hungry. OK everybody that knows me, just shut up. Hahahahahaha. I'm getting to look like Misus. Except for the Sargent Carter haircut, LOL.
Scott Rex... come on now. your just sucking up for the wrapped shrimp.......wrapped shrimp.....hummmmmm, and it's only 7:43 in the morning and it's making me hungry.
If the car will run mid 9's and doesn't break any Pontiac related parts, then the million dollar question....... Do I need to ask? Why quit racing with Pontiac power. Inquiring minds want to know?
I like the break down responses to my questions. LOL.

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  #42  
Old 05-31-2001, 11:24 AM
Rashionality Rashionality is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PONTIAC DUDE:
If the car will run mid 9's and doesn't break any Pontiac related parts, then the million dollar question....... Do I need to ask? Why quit racing with Pontiac power. Inquiring minds want to know?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

[QOUTE]Originally posted by Scott Rex:blew out an oil filter or 2, got dirt stuck in the carb floats, just plain had a run of bad luck[QUOTE]

Actually the oil problems happens after every 5 runs and it is pi$$ing me off to the point that I am getting rid of it. It is an Omen to me...that damn motor is like a bad dream, with hot chicks, you love it but you hate it. It makes great power and handles the RPM's to boot...but I cannot use the remote system on this car as there is just no room for it. I have 1 more housing to try out and if it works YAHOO!!! if it don't well it comes down to what sells first...the motor or the car. I have my eye on a nice tube chassis 69 and if I can get close to what I want for my rolling chassis I will be able to afford it...I then can keep my Poncho as I will have plenty of room to do what I have to. I will not use #10 lines for the remote filter setup and in my engine bay that is all I can fit, with the lines WAY TOO CLOSE to the headers for my taste...I did this before with my first motor and wiped out the bearings REAL quick with street driving, just not enough oil flow and that was a slow car. We'll see what happens...

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  #43  
Old 05-31-2001, 07:07 PM
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Paul.... The 1st Gen idea sounds good to me. They are 400 to 500 lbs lighter than the 2nd Gens. About the oil filter relocation hoses.... I have a dual filter relo, and I use aircraft fittings on the ends of GoodYear hoses. Mine was close to the headers also. I bought insulators from Napa that are good up to 1200 degrees. I routed them like 2 to 3 inches from the header and slipped the insulators down towards the bottom going up. So far, so good.

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  #44  
Old 05-31-2001, 07:23 PM
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How much pressure? What type of filter and mount? Block mount or remote.

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  #45  
Old 05-31-2001, 09:19 PM
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This talk about remote oil setups has me wondering (I think my setup is adequate, but still wondering).

I'm running the Nunzi block-off plate with -8an fittings and braided hose, running parallel with the tranny cooler lines to the radiator core support with a single filter remote mount using a Fram HP series filter. Been using this setup for 3 years now with no troubles. Stock oil pressure sendor mounted at lifter galley (the plug near the distributor hole). Oil pressure still reads between 35-40 psi hot while cruising. This is adequate for a street driven 455 making 425-450 HP, no?

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  #46  
Old 05-31-2001, 09:56 PM
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Brian, I'm running the same set-up. I have the Nunzi plate with #8an lines running to a Moroso single filter housing with a K&N HP3002 filter. I've run this combo for 2 years with over 200 passes and no probems yet. I pulled the pan last winter to repair a leak and checked the bearings -they all looked fine. I shift the car at 6200. Should I be worried??

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  #47  
Old 05-31-2001, 10:42 PM
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I have a Nunzi special with a dual remote filter housing. It's bolts onto the top of my wheel well. I'm getting 40 to 45 PSI at idle. I use AC Delco's...

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  #48  
Old 06-01-2001, 08:08 AM
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Things that make you go hummmmm!!!!!
I used to run a remote filter assembly. At first, I used the Moroso Ford style filter unit and a Fram racing filter. No problems with this @ 90 psi around 7200 rpm (35 idle). Then did some research and found that the Chevy unit would flow more volume, so I changed to the Moroso Chevy filter type and the Fram racing filter. It then proceeded to blow the O-ring out at higher rpms!!!!! Lost my car into the guardrail during a Shootout in Bradenton. Then saw that Jr Griffin running in NMCA had a similar problem and lost his whole car. Coincidence??? If you look at the difference of the Ford and Chevy filter, you will see that the Ford has the O-ring further in with a better lip capture area on the outside edge. The Chevy racing unit that Fram is selling has the O-ring protruding half way out of the filter and is located at the extreme edge of the filter, thus, in my opinion only, will be more susceptible to blow outs with higher pressures. They rate this filter for more pressure, but the seal is "TWICE" the height of any of their other filters. I informed them of this and asked why a different thickness O-ring compared to "ANY" of their others and got no response or answer. They didn't know. For Ho Ho's, I changed just the oil ring from another filter that sat where ALL the other sit (height wise) and had no further problems. I now however, when running the Chevy style, steer clear of the Fram racing Chevy type. I run the AC/Delco racing change over. I do however like the Fram Racing Pontiac long style, HP 2 and currently run this unit mounted directly at the block. I would imagine there are others out there with similiar stories now that the computer age makes information readily available. Later.

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  #49  
Old 06-01-2001, 09:48 AM
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I have run a block mount filter for many years with no blowouts at 75psi cold at idle,35psi hot at idle. Have used just about every filter you can screw on the housing. The trick? Did this about 15 years ago. Put your filter on the housing in a vice off the motor. Use a minimal amount of oil on o-ring. If oil gets between top outer edge of housing and upper lip of filter, wash out with carb cleaner. Take silicone and fill between housing and top lip of filter. Let silicone cure. No drips, no runs, no errors, no guard rail errors,that is.

Racing pontiacs with an attitude.

Any numnutt can race a chebby. No offence Rash.

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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter
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1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver
1966 GTO dragcar
1966 GTO Tri power, 4speed, barn find
1966 GTO Ragtop
1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto
1970 GP SSJ
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  #50  
Old 06-01-2001, 12:39 PM
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No offense taken at all.

I do have 1 question though...how the heck do you bolt the housing and filter back on the block? Do you run big tube headers? I know that it is impossible for me to do this procedure due do header clearances, or lack thereof.

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  #51  
Old 06-01-2001, 01:30 PM
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Rash, I have the same problem, and i have relatively small headers on my 73 bird. I was thinking about going with a remote set-up, but I haven't any good words about any set-up in particular.

What about the Nunzi set-up, is it pretty easy to install and maintain?

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  #52  
Old 06-01-2001, 01:30 PM
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It all boils down to what you want to get out of racing. Some would rather just go fast and don't care what is under the hood. Others would rather not follow the "masses" and prefer to do things differently. It's a personal choice, and that's what makes this such an interesting place to visit.

[This message has been edited by MCronkGTO (edited 06-01-2001).]

  #53  
Old 06-01-2001, 02:41 PM
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I use the short fram filter, ph 25 you can get at wally world. I run 2" hedman hustler headers on 66 goat, fixing to go to 2/1/4"on new IA motor. You can use a better filter,but the cheap route has worked for me. Have run the same 455 for 4 seasons with MANY passes with no problems, 75 lbs cold 35lbs hot at idle. I always warm engine (ala oil) before making first pass. You can cool water temp then make run. Never make a 7000rpm run with cold oil. You get worn dist. gears and twisted oil pump shafts. Rash, filter and housing will go, may have to loosen header some. Another oil related tip I have discovered. Throw away that needle oil pressure gauge! Get a digital gauge. Check oil pressure reading at cold idle, and check oil pressure at hot idle. These readings should be constant.(If you go different oil say, 20/50 to 50 weight you will have different readings.) A 5 lb drop in the cold or hot pressure at idle and you got problems! It's easy to overlook with a needle gauge. This can save your engine. Has saved mine before. Easier to pull that engine and freshen' up than BLOW UP!

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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter
1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build)
1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver
1966 GTO dragcar
1966 GTO Tri power, 4speed, barn find
1966 GTO Ragtop
1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto
1970 GP SSJ
1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390
1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper
525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds
Factory stock oval track car
  #54  
Old 06-01-2001, 02:53 PM
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Rash, I'm sure you know, but you can use the straight or angle filter housing for your bird, which ever is the best application.

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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter
1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build)
1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver
1966 GTO dragcar
1966 GTO Tri power, 4speed, barn find
1966 GTO Ragtop
1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto
1970 GP SSJ
1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390
1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper
525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds
Factory stock oval track car
  #55  
Old 06-01-2001, 03:19 PM
Rashionality Rashionality is offline
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I use the angled fitting and a short filter but there is no way I could get that thing in past my headers, I have tried, and since I change the oil after every week...it would be REALLY inconvenient to have to remove the header every time. I have 1 more housing to try and that's it. If it works, then great, if not...there is something else wrong.

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  #56  
Old 06-01-2001, 04:37 PM
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Race 8 times and change oil every week. LOL Rash, I'll take your old oil. Please.
Oil filter clearance problems???? See, if people bought E-heads instead of D ports, then the oil filter would fit. Must be a D-Port header problem, Hahahahahahahaha.
I run the Hooker 2" headers 70-81 Firebird, Edelbrock heads, with a angled mounting block and the LONG PH 2 Fram racing filter with about a 1/4" of clearance between it and the header and it will come down between the header and the Milodon 8" oil pan, hummmmmmmmmmm.
Why drop the mount?


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[This message has been edited by PONTIAC DUDE (edited 06-01-2001).]

  #57  
Old 06-01-2001, 05:05 PM
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I got tired of loosening the header, everytime I had to take the filter out. I am able to loosen the filter and sit it on top of the header, and reach it from the top and pull it through. I still wasn't happy with it because I got drops of oil on the pipes and I would have to go through that light smoke period. I hate when it burns oil off the header. When I put my plate on my oil filter housing, I used a rubber gasket off of a brand new AC Delco filter. I've run my 428 hard with it on, and so far their was no blowout. Now I'm talking about 6000 rpm. You guys might be hitting 7000 or higher. I will change the rubber gasket twice a year to be sure. I'm getting 50 to 60 PSI when first started, and then 40 to 45 PSI when hot. I also noticed a 20 degree drop on the water gauge. My car doesn't go past 160 now. Since I'm running a 160 degree therm, I might have to change to a lower one, if they make them. I'm not sure if the gauge is reading 160, if the therm is getting enough of a chance to open for a brief period of time.

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  #58  
Old 06-01-2001, 05:31 PM
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I'm very pleased with the Nunzi plate. Been on there for nearly 3 years now, no drips or leaks. A friend of mine is putting together a 455 for his 75 T/A and just got a plate from Butler. I haven't seen it yet, but apparently it differs from Nunzi's in that Butler's uses the factory style gasket (Nunzi's is O-ringed). Like Nunzi's it is already drilled and tapped for -8an fittings.

In routing my lines parallel with the tranny cooler lines I was able to keep them away from header heat, and by mounting the filter housing on the radiator core support, I get minimal oil spillage when changing filters. I've seen guys mount them horizontally on the firewall and to me this makes no sense (but it sure does make a mess everytime they change the filter).

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  #59  
Old 06-01-2001, 06:31 PM
Rashionality Rashionality is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PONTIAC DUDE:
Race 8 times and change oil every week. LOL Rash, I'll take your old oil. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You pay for the shipping and you can have it...


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PONTIAC DUDE:
Oil filter clearance problems???? See, if people bought E-heads instead of D ports, then the oil filter would fit. Must be a D-Port header problem, Hahahahahahahaha.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have Wenzler High Ports Dude.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PONTIAC DUDE:
I run the Hooker 2" headers 70-81 Firebird.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

So do I, I do not trust a #10 line and I have the screw on type relocator, not the plate.

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  #60  
Old 06-01-2001, 06:52 PM
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Hey...just wanted to let you know I run the butler special (remote filter block). Out of the block I run swagelock fittings to stainless tubing down the length of the frame. Pressure is about 75 pounds cold and about 50 warm, I have seen it as high as 100 pounds cold before and no problems.

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