[RRF]

I figure I can save some money by stripping my 2nd Gen T/A to bare metal myself.
What type of primer should I spray on the bare metal to protect it until it is ready to go to shop for any body work or prep work prior to paint?
I do not have air or a paint booth, of course, so paint bombs would probably be required for this stage.

[RRF]

I figure I can save some money by stripping my 2nd Gen T/A to bare metal myself.
What type of primer should I spray on the bare metal to protect it until it is ready to go to shop for any body work or prep work prior to paint?
I do not have air or a paint booth, of course, so paint bombs would probably be required for this stage.

[sviguy]

not sure you will save $ if the primer you apply now has to be removed later...best practice is to apply the primer you want for the paint...maybe you can strip 1 panel at a time and take it to the shop and have it primed with the required primer?...my bare metal fenders sat around the shop for weeks before I got them in primer and very little oxidation ocurred and what did was easily removed with scotchbrite....the key is getting and keeping them very clean and kept in a dry place....and don't touch them with your sweaty, salty fingers...how are you stripping your body to bare metal without air tools? chemicals

can you hear me now? is this thing on? test 1 2 1 2

[RRF]

well...Air could be in the near future [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

And I am willing to sand the card down to metal. The hood decal is so old it has engrained itself into the paint and as it deteriorates it takes all the paint with it. It would cost too much to have a shop sand it down.

[T/A 70]

RRF, A good variable speed buffer(200 bucks+) with 80 grit disks will take the entire car to metal in less than a day. You'll need dust masks whether you do it by hand or not.In either case, use a good 2k(with hardener) epoxy primer and it will last a long time until you have the car painted. I take it you do not have a spray gun or compressor? If you are sanding it by hand and one panel or area at a time, use the Preval sprayers which you can get at any auto paint supply. You may have to over reduce the epoxy a bit to get it to spray well. Protect your lungs with 2k materials. Spray outside and up wind if you don't have the proper fresh air breathing system. Put on a few light coats until you get the feel of the Preval as to put down an even finish. Mind you, this is the bare minimum "budget" method, but epoxy will seal your metal and buy you a great deal of time.

T/A 70

[A1Judge]

Don't skimp here - the final paint job will only be as good as the foundation - Use Epoxy Primer on the bare metal.

If you can't get to the primer stage within a week after spraying the epoxy, you will have to scuff the surface and shoot another coat of Epoxy prior to the regular primer for adhesion reasons.

Like was said, protect yourself using the 2K chemicals - they are very dangerous.

A1 JUDGE - Formerly DC
restored a 70 Judge at: http://home.rochester.rr.com/dchapman

[timbergrove]

My 65 body is off the frame so the doors, hood fenders and trunk are loose. I found sanding too dusty for my shop so I went with paint stripper. The low oder aircraft stripper works well with lots of ventillation. The local PPG paint distributer recommended two part epoxy self etching primer, but said it would have to be sanded just prior to the finish coat since this primer gets extremely hard with time. It is hard to sand it after it is more than a few days old. I decided to leave everything bare metal until paint time. The parts are not rusting in my shop. I will use metal prep, then prime anyway. I think the metal prep step is extremely important even when using self etching primers. I do not recommend priming with paint cans, the paint shop will not be happy with you.