[stevek0629]

I am rebuilding my '67 Lemans front end. I was making no progress with the pickle fork and BFH on the 35-year old original ball joints, so I rented a front-end kit from a local parts store. It contains a variety of a screw-type separators for ball joints, tie rod ends, pittman arm, etc. That allowed me to break the upper ball joints free and remove the springs. However, the tool does not fit the lower ball joints, which appear to be slightly larger in diameter where the tool's fingers fit under the spindle.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a source for a tool that WILL fit the lower ball joint? I get no satisfaction pounding on things that refuse to come apart with the BFH approach


Thanks!

steve

[stevek0629]

I am rebuilding my '67 Lemans front end. I was making no progress with the pickle fork and BFH on the 35-year old original ball joints, so I rented a front-end kit from a local parts store. It contains a variety of a screw-type separators for ball joints, tie rod ends, pittman arm, etc. That allowed me to break the upper ball joints free and remove the springs. However, the tool does not fit the lower ball joints, which appear to be slightly larger in diameter where the tool's fingers fit under the spindle.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a source for a tool that WILL fit the lower ball joint? I get no satisfaction pounding on things that refuse to come apart with the BFH approach


Thanks!

steve

[Donovan]

Autozone

Rent-a-tool

Ball joint kit. I just used it on my lower ball joints. Outside of the case says
"Ball Joint Press"
OEM oem#27023

[This message was edited by TD on April 14, 2003 at 11:12 AM.]

[stevek0629]

I have seen these type of kits, but not having actually touched one I assumed they were for pressing the ball joint out of the A-arm, not for removing the spindle from the ball joint.

I will investigate further.....

thanks!

Steve

[llucas]

It takes two BFH's on the lowers. Put one against one sied and whack the hell out of the other side. Then, use the pickle fork.

[george kujanski]

Years ago I needed to remove the ball joint and not damage the boot (and didn't want to spend money) so I made a tool.

I made the tool from a length of iron pipe, welded a 1/2" thread nut to one end, and screwed in a matching bolt. You can also weld on another nut to the bolt head to form a seat for the end if the ball joint stud.

The tool fits between the upper ball joint nut and lower ball joint stud; and it's length is adjustable. Loosen the lower joint nut. After fitting the tool between the studs, increasing its length puts a separating force between the studs. Tighten it up as much as you can, and then tap the side of the lower steering knuckle with a ball pein hammer to vibrate the knuckle and the joint should pop loose. Also keep a jack under the control arm.

It worked for me!

Regards, George



leave the nut on the upper one for the non-adjustable end to bear down on.

[goatseeker]

Steve,
Sounds like you have lots of options from the more knowledgable members of the board. FWIW though - after the BFH/pickle fork failed on mine, I resorted to the old "smoke wrench" method. Heated the spindle with a torch then hit it with the BFH and pickle fork. Took a few cycles of 'heating and beating' but they finally broke loose. Of course I was replacing the spindles anyway for a disc brake upgrade so wasn't to worried about hurting them.

http://kurtspontiac.homestead.com/TimSimpson66GTO.html

[signal_23]

I just went through the same thing and am now just getting it all back together. I used the press pictured by TD to press the lower ball joint out of the A-arm. To separate the lower ball joint from the spindle I used the BFH and pickle fork approach. Since I was replacing A-arm bushings anyway, I removed the upper ball joint and then took the lower A-arm and spindle off as 'one' piece. I found I could get better leverage with the BFH than when it was on the car. It took awhile, and I ended up bending my pickle fork a little. A torch may work too, but I was skeptical since I was reusing my spindles. Good luck.

[droptop67gp]

Bought a front end kit tool kit for ~80...everthing worked like a champ. I used the tool shown in the center of this kit (under the c press) to get the lower ball joint off the spindle...popped right off

[engineer]

JC whitney sells a lever action tool for about $20 to remove the stud from the spindle. works sweet and does not cut up the boot. So joint could be reused.

[hpbongers]

I'v never had a problem with this approch. I remove the nuts and either put them back on level with the stud top or find some other ones to use. With the spring full tension, I wack on the nut a few times and the presure pops the tapered shaft out. Only goes 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Will never break and the threads are safe. Put the jack under and remove. Done.

[vidguy]

I've used the tool in drop tops post as well. Bought mine at the swap meet for 7.00 used it twice worked perfectly.

James Fasso
[email protected]
'67 GTO Conv
"220, 221, whatever it takes."

Micheal Keaton as "Mr. Mom"

[connman]

to remove spindles is very easy remove cotter keys and back of nuts leaving about 2/3 turns of threads so when ball joint breaks loose the spring doesn't get you!!! take the shock out if you are removing the spring. Put full spring preasure on the ball joint/spindle taper. Now turn the spindles in or out so that you can hit with a bfh at the point where the ball joint taper/spindle are together.wack it real hard several times and the ball joint will pop apart. now do it to the other ball joint and other side baall joints. If you hit it in the taper spot the spring preasure will pull it apart. It takes some thought as to how to hit it at the right spot and get enough force but I have done it this way for several years. It may also help you if you wedge the "tuning fork" in between the spindle/ball joint. with the tie rods loose it will sometimes give you more room. now that you have the springs out try wedging the tuning fork in between the ball joint/spindle and hitting it hard in the taper

connman

[PMDRACER]

This stuff may seem obvious, but whatever.

The trick to the pickle fork/BFH method is to get all the rubber boot out so you are pressing on steel, not on rubber that will cushion the blow. I see alot of guys shove the fork straight in. Not good. Tends to put the whack in the wrong place, like the dust shields or the outer edges of the A-arms. Turn the spindle all the way right or left and come from the side, behind the dust shields. The flat side of the fork goes against the spindle. The angled end towards the old ball joint. Leave the dead blow hammer in the drawer. You want the shock of a steel faced hammer.
Last tip - look out for the fenders and swing like a man! Great for stress relief.

TIGER EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection for the Traditional Pontiac Engine. [email protected]