The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
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Old 02-07-2003, 01:24 PM
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Take a look at the following picture:

web page

I blasted this today with glass bead and the results are shown as "B".

With a paint stripper pad I can easily get down to shiny metal as shown in "A".

Should I take it down to bare metal? If so, I'm guessing I need material more abrasive. But, if I do that, will it pit the wheel?

Thanks,

John

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Old 02-07-2003, 01:24 PM
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Take a look at the following picture:

web page

I blasted this today with glass bead and the results are shown as "B".

With a paint stripper pad I can easily get down to shiny metal as shown in "A".

Should I take it down to bare metal? If so, I'm guessing I need material more abrasive. But, if I do that, will it pit the wheel?

Thanks,

John

1969 Firebird resto...doing my part to keep PY profitable....

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Old 02-07-2003, 05:10 PM
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Well it looks like what you need to do is replace the media you're using with sand. Won't hurt the wheel, will get it down to bare metal, and you don't have to use chemicals that seem to hide in crevices just until you put the last coat of shiny new paint on.
Sandblast the wheels, wash them with soapy water, dry them off, then primer and paint.

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Old 02-07-2003, 06:21 PM
wholio wholio is offline
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the glass should get them to bare metal. What pressure are you set at.

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Old 02-07-2003, 07:17 PM
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Pressure is at 80 PSI. Instructions say to run it between 80-90 PSI. I've gone up to 100 w/o noticing a difference.

I got the blasting cabinet about 2 weeks ago and I've been surprised at what *doesn't* come off witht the glass beads.

Paint seems to come off OK but goop, rust, residual grime, etc. just won't come off.

Thanks guys,

John

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Old 02-07-2003, 07:35 PM
wholio wholio is offline
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They say 90 psi when you get over 100 psi the glass will start to powder on impact with steel. Thats OK as by the time the level gets low it's about time for new glass. I run mine at 120 psi as the pressure drops with prolonged spraying time. The glass gives a better finish in more applications. I have used aluminum oxide but it's dirty and won't give aluminum as good a finish as glass. In my cabinet the glass takes off paint rust gasket material and most anything else. Turn your pressure up to about 120 psi. Whan you buy your blasting material you can get it bulk for alot less than Eastwood charges. I have blasted several sets of wheels as well as most everything else. If you have any questions E mail me if you like. Julian

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Old 02-08-2003, 06:52 AM
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I'll try ramping up the PSI and see if that works, but I'm doubtful.

I do have a Graingers locally and I'll swing by and pick up something more abrasive and give that a whirl.

John

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Old 02-08-2003, 09:39 AM
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I used a wire wheel in a drill on my Rally I's and it took it to bare metal in no time flat. Bought 4 wire wheels and had all wheels bright and shiny in half day. No blasting mess either.

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Old 02-08-2003, 10:17 AM
'ol Pinion head 'ol Pinion head is offline
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Normally start this process with rotary wire brush around the wheel codes with the mean Forney wire wheel on the angle grinder, then glass bead. If rust is stubborn, tape off the wheel code area with racer tape & carefully sandblast out of the pressure pot.

Of note, using coarser sand will chew the Ralley wheels up on the "line edges" of the 5 spokes...been there As a result, use the racer tape over the spokes as well, if using the "mean" sand. Same sand can obliterate wheel codes...there are $5 a piece Rally II wheels & there are $300 a piece Rally II wheels, gotta be careful...

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Old 02-08-2003, 01:01 PM
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John you have all the paint off,Stop at B why go on? DO NOT WASH WITH WATER.blow them off with air,tackcloth and prime.


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  #11  
Old 02-08-2003, 02:17 PM
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I read an article that says if they are in ok shape, leave the original paint on as it is the best rust proofer. I clean them up really well water, soap, scotchbrite lightly and then wherever they are chipped, I apply some red glazing putty and sand smooth. If thay are rusty and pitted from the rust, I blast the area and put on several coats of POR 15 and sand smooth then paint.

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Old 02-08-2003, 04:16 PM
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Great feedback -- THANKS!

I took the wheel in the photo down to metal this afternoon with a paint/rust stripping pad. Of course, all the old paint is still in the nooks and crannies. I then cranked the PSI up to 120+ and tried again with the glass bead. It slooooooowly begain taking off the remants. It would take forever if I continued like that!

I'll finish off this one with something slightly more abrasive and/or resort to the old Dremel (although that's tedious too).

I'll ponder the other advice and try another approach or two. I guess in that sense it's nice to have 4 wheels!

John

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Old 02-09-2003, 10:01 AM
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took my original rally IIs 14x7 to place here who sand blasts and red lead primer for 20$ per...I put the mask kit on and spray canned them...sweet results....be sure to lay them down and get plenty of paint in seams

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Old 02-09-2003, 05:34 PM
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there is no doubt glass beads are slow on paint removal. But they don't pit. Sand would work great, but then there is the silica issue. especially in a blast cabinet. There is a store here in town that sells an abrasive compund that is made from valcanic rock. Tears paint down quick. Very little in pits, & epoxy primer fills small pits anyway.

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Old 02-10-2003, 06:38 PM
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Just a quick update: today I went to Grainger's, a commercial supply company, for a different type of media to try. It took me ALL day yesterday to blast a single wheel!

First of all, they're supposed to only sell to businesses. Ooops! The guy behind the counter was a stand-up guy and took my order anyway.

It turns out they only thing they sell is glass bead media -- but they sell it in different levels of coarseness. Who knew?

Anyway, I had a choice between "very coarse" and "coarse" which I chose. I'll try it in the next day or so and post the results.

Also, another member of the board suggested using baking soda. Anybody else tried that?

Thanks,

John

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