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#1
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I have a set of new steel wheel cap centers and a new set of inserts and was wondering what is the best thing to glue them on the caps with?
Hate for them to come off at $10 a pop so I want to do it right the first time. * (Don't waste your money on those plastics ones, they come off on the first bump even with 10 layers of duct tape wrapped on them to tighten up the fit!) ------------------ Rob Rob's HIGH PERFORMANCE & PARTY page! '89 TTA Mint 3.8 Turbo with less than 10k miles! '95 TA Convertible LT1 40k miles. '79 TA 6.6L - Needs a little TLC and some work to be perfect [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] 95k miles. '87 Buick Grand National- 12.4 @ 108 on pump gas and street chip, 50k miles '94 Silverado w/TPI daily driver.
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Rob '79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 - 4-spd, all original, 28k miles '89 20th Anniv. TURBO TA1 of 15 hardtop/cloth 27k miles '99 30th Anniv Vert LS1 stock '95 TA Contvertible LT1 loads of mods '87 Buick Grand National - not stock 11.61 @121 '05 Ram Viper Truck - supercharged |
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#2
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I have a set of new steel wheel cap centers and a new set of inserts and was wondering what is the best thing to glue them on the caps with?
Hate for them to come off at $10 a pop so I want to do it right the first time. * (Don't waste your money on those plastics ones, they come off on the first bump even with 10 layers of duct tape wrapped on them to tighten up the fit!) ------------------ Rob Rob's HIGH PERFORMANCE & PARTY page! '89 TTA Mint 3.8 Turbo with less than 10k miles! '95 TA Convertible LT1 40k miles. '79 TA 6.6L - Needs a little TLC and some work to be perfect [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] 95k miles. '87 Buick Grand National- 12.4 @ 108 on pump gas and street chip, 50k miles '94 Silverado w/TPI daily driver.
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Rob '79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 - 4-spd, all original, 28k miles '89 20th Anniv. TURBO TA1 of 15 hardtop/cloth 27k miles '99 30th Anniv Vert LS1 stock '95 TA Contvertible LT1 loads of mods '87 Buick Grand National - not stock 11.61 @121 '05 Ram Viper Truck - supercharged |
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#3
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Maybe some thin 2 sided tape. Do NOT use Duco cement. It will eat right into the plastic.
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--------------------------- Fool Around, Get Hurt, Don't come Crying to me. |
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#4
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3M weatherstrip cement works well (the yellow stuff). 3M epoxy works well too (the stuff that comes in 2 side-by-side tubes), but over time will "bleed" the red out of the plastic centers (It took nearly 2 years to do it to mine). Keep in mind whatever you use will not last forever, you need something that will "stick" and not screw up the colors in the cap centers. Go with the weatherstrip cement.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
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#5
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Well, all I can say is 3M yellow weather strip cement took less than 1 hour to eat right thru the colors, wasted $48
.....I'll consult the dealer tomorrow on what to use on the next set [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif[/img]Maybe the inserts were different than what other have used but they were in a GM package...
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Rob '79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 - 4-spd, all original, 28k miles '89 20th Anniv. TURBO TA1 of 15 hardtop/cloth 27k miles '99 30th Anniv Vert LS1 stock '95 TA Contvertible LT1 loads of mods '87 Buick Grand National - not stock 11.61 @121 '05 Ram Viper Truck - supercharged |
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#6
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I've used it with no problems to date...sorry
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
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#7
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Another "glue" I've used in the past that didn't bleed the colors (but didn't last long either) was rear view mirror "cement" (the clear stuff you use to glue rear view mirror mounts to windshields). The colors didn't bleed, but the stuff last about 6 months of daily driving before the cap centers started to come off.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
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#8
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If you are talking about the Honeycomb center caps the factory used clear silicone which has worked well for me.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune [email protected] 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs 1964 Corvette Coupe 327 4 speed |
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#9
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I have also used clear silicone with excellent results.
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'78 T/A, Red, 455 Auto, Comp Cams 268 cam, 7K3 Heads, Holley 750 w/Street Dominator intake, 3.73s, B&M Megashifter, A/R Outlaw wheels, BFG Comp T/A's, AutoMeter instrumentation 2000 Black/Ebony WS6 T/A M6 222/222-566/566 "Hammer Cam" Random Tech ca |
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#10
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Such as RTV silicone like that used with gaskets?
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Rob '79 10th Anniv. T/A 6.6 - 4-spd, all original, 28k miles '89 20th Anniv. TURBO TA1 of 15 hardtop/cloth 27k miles '99 30th Anniv Vert LS1 stock '95 TA Contvertible LT1 loads of mods '87 Buick Grand National - not stock 11.61 @121 '05 Ram Viper Truck - supercharged |
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#11
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I used 3M Plastic to metal epoxy. Bought it at autozone. Emblems have been on for 4 years with no problems.
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#12
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I use this rubber sealant tape that power utility and telephone techs and use to wrap buried splices in power cables. It comes in rolls like toilet paper, with wax paper seperating it, and is about a 1/4 in thick. It is very stretchy, and you just stretch it around the prongs. This stuff will never lose its grip, and the best part is you can reuse the same piece over and over. You can still pull off the caps and rework the stuff in your hand and put it back on again. I have used the same piece for years. Just pull up to a utility crew doing some underground splices and ask for some.
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