[S_Demon]

Ah, that's good to hear! So performance will suffer without newer springs? Noticably? Seeing as it still has the same 2bbl cam i should notice a BETTER responing car

I'm having doubt on the "2.78" gears i have. It feels like the engine's RPM is kinda high when i get to 60-70 MPH. I don't have a Tach so I don't know, but sounds like it will run out of gear if I hit 100 mph, or LESS

What time set would you recommend?

Thanks much for the reply B-Man!

[heff]

i'm just about done with my 350 build, waiting for the upper dipstick tube to come from GM. it's a 71 block, with 70 #16 heads. Block was bored .030, decked .010, had to have cylinder sleeved, but the place that did all the machine work also builds a lot of diesel motors, so they knew what they were doing when it came to sleeves, and they also knew about building pontiacs. anyway, since i found the block in a backyard near a coal mine, had it magnafluxed, came back just fine, except for the #1 cylinder, which couldn't be bored because of sever rust. Heads are like i said 1970 #16 castings, rebuilt before i got them. stock valve sizes, but you can't go too big on a 350 because of shrouding. pistons do have reliefs cut in them. stock bottom end save for a .010-.010 cut on the main and rod bearings. 66 389 4bbl cast iron intake, holley 750 4160 carb(vac secondaries) Cam is a melling grind, 067. (350 4spd grind) torque converter is 2400rpm stall, rear is a 3.73 lsd out of a Monte Carlo aerocoupe. 68 exhaust manifolds with the flapper removed. Should be a pretty quick and reliable set-up for my 79 Grand Prix.

[b-man]

I'm having doubt on the "2.78" gears i have.

Well, then find out what rear gear ratio your car has. For cars without posi rears jack up the car so that only one rear tire is off the ground. Mark the tire and the driveshaft with chalk so you can accurately count the turns.

Rotate the driveshaft until the tire makes exactly TWO complete revolutions (differential spider gears have a 2:1 ratio). The number of turns of the shaft will be your ratio, about 3-1/4 turns is 3.23, a tad over 3 turns is 3.08, etc.

For a posi rear (working properly) get both tires off the ground and turn the shaft until the tire(s) make ONE revolution.

What time set would you recommend?

If you mean ignition timing, set it at somewhere between 32 and 36 degrees total. To set it disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the line. Rev the engine until the timing stops advancing (centrifugal/mechanical advance), usually at about 3000 RPM.

Setting the timing like this is the only way to know how much timing the engine has under full-throttle conditions. Trying to set the timing at idle (initial advance) is pretty much a waste of time, because most folks who set it like that will never know how much their total timing advance is.

After setting the total timing take note of the timing number at idle and use that for reference the next time you set the timing on the engine. You'd be surprised at the number of racers I've met at the track that didn't have a clue about setting the ignition timing on their race cars.

[tremo]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by b-man:

What time set would you recommend?

If you mean ignition timing, set it at somewhere between 32 and 36 degrees total. To set it disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the line. Rev the engine until the timing stops advancing (centrifugal/mechanical advance), usually at about 3000 RPM.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hey b-man, I think he means which brand of Timing Set do you recommend. Edlebrock, Brand XYZ, etc.

Above you said "Rev the engine until the timing stops advancing (centrifugal/mechanical advance), usually at about 3000 RPM.

Can you clarify? i.e. Do you mean keep advancing the timing a little at a time while the engine is at 3000 rpm until you see the timing no longer advancing? Then your total timing should end up between 32 to 36 degrees?

It's much easier using an Advanced Timing Light, but I'd like to know the procedure since all I have currently is a standard timing light for setting the timing at idle.

Thanks!

Jim.

[S_Demon]

yeah, i did mean tim"ing" set, sorry 'bout the confusion.

Thanks alot for the info on the timing though! I'd also like to know the procedure on using a standard timing light.

Also, my dis. doesn't have vacuum adv.

[b-man]

The best timing set is a Rollmaster 9-keyway, about $90. I've also used the Cloyes Tru-Roller 3-keyway, about $80.

As mentioned rev the engine and just watch the timing mark on the balancer move using your timing light, at a certain point (RPM) it will stop moving. This is where the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor hits its peak and stops advancing. Note where it stopped moving, then advance or retard the timing by moving the distributor until it hits 32 degrees as the max setting.

With a dial-back timing light just set the dial to 32 and make the TDC mark on the balancer line up with the zero on your timing tab. With a standard light you'll need to mark the balancer at 32 degrees, easily done by measuring the circumference of the balancer and dividing that number by 360 to find one degree.

[S_Demon]

Last post before I install cam tomorrow. I was reading the thread and another 350 thread one last time and came up with a question. Will advancing the cam 4 degree's make the 350 "run out of breathe" too soon? I read on the other thread to advance 2 degree's (on the 068 cam). What is the difference from 2 degree's and 4 degree's? I don't mean question your knowledge or offend you b-man, I just wanna make sure.

On a side disappointing note...
A week ago when i went to autozone to pick up some stuff. Coming home I ran into a honda civic. He slowed down at a yellow light to wait for me i guess, but i didn't think much of it. I was an empty area with no cars, but I didn't wanna race. I looked over at him and his girlfriend, and the guy looked over at me and laughed! I got annoyed, so i decided to got for it. bad news though, I couldn't pass him! I got to 50mph and stopped. This was sooo disappointing, I bowed my head in shame and headed home...

[b-man]

Will advancing the cam 4 degree's make the 350 "run out of breathe" too soon? I read on the other thread to advance 2 degree's (on the 068 cam).

It won't 'run out of breath', it will still spin to 5500 no problem. Advancing the cam moves the powerband down a few hundred RPMs to a range that's more useful for the smaller 350 engine.

Keep in mind that the 068 was first used in bigger 389/400 engines and later on in 428/455 engines. Putting this cam in a smaller engine makes it act like a bigger cam, so advancing it will put it in a range that will be better matched to the smaller engine.

For a car with an auto trans this makes a big difference in performance. You probably won't need to shift it much past 5000 to make good power.

What is the difference from 2 degree's and 4 degree's?

That would be 2 degrees.

Seriously, a 2 degree difference won't be quite enough to notice, go for 4. That will be enough to shift the powerband for better torque down low without going too far.

Now my question for you: Did you use my easy method to find your rear gear ratio yet?

[Bad Karma]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">

On a side disappointing note...
A week ago when i went to autozone to pick up some stuff. Coming home I ran into a honda civic. He slowed down at a yellow light to wait for me i guess, but i didn't think much of it. I was an empty area with no cars, but I didn't wanna race. I looked over at him and his girlfriend, and the guy looked over at me and laughed! I got annoyed, so i decided to got for it. bad news though, I couldn't pass him! I got to 50mph and stopped. This was sooo disappointing, I bowed my head in shame and headed home... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dont feel Bad when I Had a 72 350in my 72 I got smoked by a Volkswagon TDI {turbo diesel} on the highway I even had 2.58 gears!!!!!! BTW Did You guys Know about the 72 350 recall for bad bearings or rods? After Blowing up 3 I say 3 72 350's Years later the internet tells me Why I always blew those 350's up. From what i read it was a real recall and only affected the 72 pontiac 350's. Whats funny is That I actually Got 3 72 350's in a row! One from a Pontiac Wrench mans stash {now i know why it was 200$ running!!} Second one Bragain News 3rd one junkyard. Crazy WHo would have thought and I probobly have a better chance of winning the lottery than doing that today 15 years later!

[S_Demon]

B-Man, yes i did use your method, and it is 2.78 I doesn't feel like it though...

I dont have a tach, but if feels way up there in the RPM range when going 65-70 on the freeway. Like it'll run outta gear at 100mph or less.

Sorry to hear you had news with your 350's '72 Lemans!

Well by the looks of today, tomorrow is the cam swap day I hate unexpected family company!

4 degree's it is then

[Bad Karma]

I dont think it applies here since Your completely rebuilt anyway. It was Either a rod rod bearing issue or rod bolt issue. I cant remember but it was recalled on the 72 pontiac 350 engine.Wish I had Known Good luck Btw!

[S_Demon]

OK, finished installing breaking in the cam (a friend helped ), and went out for a test drive. I've run into some serious problems.
For some strange reason I can't seem to get any traction when gas is applied? Not only that, some weird black marks have appeared all down my street?

Seriously, WOW...without a posi rear end i don't think i can get good traction!

Thanks all for your help! I love this board

Expect some more questions once I get the cash to get all my other stuff!

[bmpmdf]

Those marks are just a new protective coating to help the pavement hold up longer. Have fun with the new found power.

[Bad Karma]

Burn outs rule!!!!!!!!