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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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As I get ready to paint my 70 JUdge later this Summer, I have had varying opinions on what type of paint to use.
I am leaning towards base coat/clear coat, but others have said that to be more correct for the year of the car I should use single stage urathane... Opinions? The car is Polar White. I just think I'll get more shine and a more professional look with the bc/cc. Thanks Don |
#2
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As I get ready to paint my 70 JUdge later this Summer, I have had varying opinions on what type of paint to use.
I am leaning towards base coat/clear coat, but others have said that to be more correct for the year of the car I should use single stage urathane... Opinions? The car is Polar White. I just think I'll get more shine and a more professional look with the bc/cc. Thanks Don |
#3
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DC, As you know I also have a polar white
70 judge. For the last eight years I have been pondering the same question. When the time comes I think I will go with base coat clear coat. When I talk to body shop guys as well as people with base clear paint jobs they say it is the most durable and shiny. I also have worries that the base clear may be too shiny for a correct restoration, but if it gives me the durability I want it will be worth it. Good luck |
#4
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Basecoat / clearcoat is the way to go .
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Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#5
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Just rolled my TA out of the booth. It's a base coat/ clear coat white. It looks wet and shiny, moreso than just a one coat paint job.
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#6
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base coat clear coat is the only way to go in my book. ulees we are talking a concoarse car why would it matter? this will hold up so much better.
Don
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some times when you race with squirrels you get your nuts cracked! |
#7
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I've also got a Polar White GTO. Of course go with at least 3 or 4 coats of base and then 3 or 4 coats of clear, then wet sand the the heck out of it. I would consider mixing in with the base coat something that would bring out the highlights in the paint, but nothing that is obvious. A good custom paint shop can make some suggestions. On my teal turquoise '65 GTO a little additional silver metallic was added...really made a big improvement.
As I stated in an earlier post, here in California it illegal to use automotive paint without a clear coat. Its also illegal to use lacquer. I seriously considered purchasing a silver 1967 GTO, 99% point car. The guy did a great job with the restoration, but used the original silver paint formula. The car looked flat..no flash. The original 1965 Montero Red is the same way..dull. |
#8
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I painted my car in 93 with Sikkens b/c urethane. It looks as good today as the day it rolled out of the spray booth. Definately base/clear.
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#9
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In Portland metro, lacquer paints are also illegal.
The only thing I dislike about clearing over white. If there's the least spec of dirt or anything, the clear seems to high lite that imperfection. For shear gloss and durability, there's nuthin' prettier then a base/ clear paint job that's been cut flat and polished. The trick to accomplish this with urethanes, is to cut the paint the next day before it sets up
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"Bye" "Bye" Rice Boy!!! |
#10
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Thanks! I am sold,,, base / clear will be it, which was my orginal choice, but then second thoughts creep in.. I'll stick to my original plan. Should be ready to shoot in about 5 or 6 weeks!
Don |
#11
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One other option, is using a "regular" single stage white, sand, clear over it. I know with all the base/clear out there there is not always that option. ture base/clears can be a pain to touch up dings, whereas if you have "plain color" it belnds a little easier.
My 78 TA 2 coats black Glasurit, 3 coats clear color sand the whole car. Maty any thoughts on this method pros and cons? Got a 65 GTO going in red later this year so need som ideas too.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#12
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I used PPG Concept Color single stage refrigerator white on a 88 Camaro and I was very happy with my garage paint job. I used PPG B/C on my 69 Firebird because of the color, deep iris mist metalic with a touch of pearl. It turned out nice, but was alot more work. If I was going to paint a car white I would use the single stage Concept Color. I am not a painter, this is just my O2. If You are going to pay somebody to paint it, then I would ask them what they suggest.
[ April 28, 2002, 10:07 AM: Message edited by: Garry Sr ] |
#13
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DC, I agree with the group, base/clear is the only way to go. If you have or can get the old lacquer mixing formula, sometimes you can convert the lacquer toners to the equivalent in Urethane toners and make your original formula in new technology. I did this with Burgundy on my 67 GTO back in 1990, using Martin-Senour. Maybe an enthusiast behind the parts counter could research it and you'd have the best of both worlds.
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#14
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Here's the biggest thing to remember when using a base/ clear refinish.
The majority of the paint manufacturers have a "time window" that the clear must be applied over the base. Another thing to remember. You need approximately 3 mils. of clear on your car. If you don't remember these 2 warnings you could have your paint job fail. The worst is when the clear breaks down, and starts to peel off. This delamination can occur when the base has set too long before the clear was applied, or when not enough clear. The clear coat time window is even more critical on darker colors, since the darker paint absorbs U.V. more then the lighter colors.
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"Bye" "Bye" Rice Boy!!! |
#15
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I was aware of the time "window".
I plan to shoot the car in one day. Do the base on the shell, then do the panels off the car. I'll rotate doing this until I have three coats of base on everything. I'll then switch to the clear after the base has flashed the proper amount of time and then shoot three coats of clear. I plan on color sanding and polishing the whole job. I have a week of vacation coming up at the end of May.. Don |
#16
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DC, Are you going to paint the car at home?
Are you painting it in your garage, or outside? I personally don't feel like I have the right equipment as well as the expertise to do the final painting of my car. I've been doing all of my bodywork in my backyard, but there is no way that I can base clear my car outside. When I was in High School I painted one of my cars outside and had to run inside and find some tweezers to pull the mosquitos out of the paint. That sucked. |
#17
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Well, I plan on painting it here at the house in the garage. I will have a supplied air respirator, and a ventilation system. I have a devilbis OMX HVLP gun and with the current tip it actually is a LVLP, so it may take me more time to paint the whole thing.
So far I have epoxy primed the whole car and I have K38 on two fenders. Very little overspray with this gun and no dust in the paint that I can detect... Don |
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