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Old 05-21-2002, 11:55 AM
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Hi I have a 69 Cat with a 400 cid eng with a soon to be holley 650 and a Manual transmission. A friend of mine suggested getting a Mechanical advance distributor. The one I was looking at is a Mallory mechanical advance dual point. Would getting this distributor eliminate the need for all my vaccum lines and thermostatic vaccum switch? My engine is basically stock except for the weiand intake and carb. I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to this stuff and I'm trying to learn and ask alot of sometimes dumb questions. Any help is appreciated.

Coastie kid

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Old 05-21-2002, 11:55 AM
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Hi I have a 69 Cat with a 400 cid eng with a soon to be holley 650 and a Manual transmission. A friend of mine suggested getting a Mechanical advance distributor. The one I was looking at is a Mallory mechanical advance dual point. Would getting this distributor eliminate the need for all my vaccum lines and thermostatic vaccum switch? My engine is basically stock except for the weiand intake and carb. I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to this stuff and I'm trying to learn and ask alot of sometimes dumb questions. Any help is appreciated.

Coastie kid

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Old 05-21-2002, 02:01 PM
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I'd spend my money on a point-less type of distributor first. Never have to adjust the points!

Yes,you could probably get rid of your vacuum lines. Although I wouldn't think it would have too many.

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Old 05-21-2002, 05:40 PM
firebird72_4-ME firebird72_4-ME is offline
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I agree with johnta1 .Go pointless dist.I am running a Mollery Comp 9000.They are a little cheaper the MSD dist.

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Old 05-21-2002, 05:47 PM
larry davis larry davis is offline
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One word: Unilite.

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Old 05-21-2002, 09:40 PM
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I still use an HEI unit, very cheap and works for me.

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Old 05-21-2002, 09:43 PM
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opps, my bad. it won';t fit with your intake.

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Old 05-21-2002, 10:03 PM
Tim Swain Tim Swain is offline
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Its not going to get rid of your vacum lines, just you vac advance line. Keep your vacum advance in your case it helps gas milage. Convert a points distributar to electronic. Its easy. Safe money for something else that will improve performance.
I run a MSD, but if your not into a super tune, a point less convertion works great.

[ May 21, 2002, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: Tim Swain ]

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Old 05-21-2002, 10:53 PM
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You guys sound like serious racing gearheads.
What about converting to Pertronix and a high voltage coil to maintain stock appearance. Any opinions on whether this would mildly improve performance on a stock motor - or just decrease the fuss with points?
Just asking.

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Old 05-22-2002, 01:37 AM
ponchopete ponchopete is offline
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The Pertronix kit works really well, is easy to install, and is reliable. However, with an otherwise stock or mildly modified engine, you'll probably only really "feel" a difference if your stock distributor is worn out or your existing coil is getting weak. The good part is the lack of maintenance -- that alone is worth it in my book. As a side note, to the gentleman who first posted this subject, all distributors for non-computerized, carbureted vehicles feature a mechanical advance mechanism (except for crank trigger distributors). Some aftermarket units do not have a vacuum advance. In your case, you'd probably be happiest with a unit that still retained the vacuum advance unit. When it is hooked up properly and functioning correctly, it will contribute to better fuel efficiency, especially at highway speeds. The Mallory Unilite works well as long as you're in a cooler climate. I know lots of folks out here in the desert who are constantly burning up the Unilite modules due to excessive heat. Mallory also offers a magnetic trigger model, which, in my opinion, is a much more reliable way to go. Also, avoid the Mallory Comp 9000 models. While they're an excellent distributor, it costs around $70-$80 to replace the cap & rotor!

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Old 05-22-2002, 12:56 PM
gold79TA gold79TA is offline
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Played around with a 68 Catalina in college. With the factory cam, heads and the highway axle ratio the quickest combination is going to be the stock 2 BBL carb with the small (high velocity) ports and valves. This thing could beat the 80's mustang GT's off the stoplites if the frat boy behind the wheel didn't know what he was doing (most of them apparently didn't). Use the stock distributor and put in some blue streak points with a fresh cap and rotor and put the old points in the glovebox for a spare. Spend any leftover money on your girlfriend/boyfriend.
Enjoy!

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Old 05-24-2002, 01:15 AM
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Ponchopete,
Thanks for the feedback on the Pertronix for Pontiacs. I put one on a 429 SCJ in a Ford Torino I had and never had to adjust the timing again. Maybe my imagination but I think the car ran better too. It's easy enough to switch back if it messes things up so I think I'll try it on my GTO.

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Old 05-24-2002, 05:18 AM
firebird72_4-ME firebird72_4-ME is offline
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As far as the Mallory Comp 9000(This is to Ponchopete in Glendale AZ)I lived in Casa Grande AZ and never had a heat problem with it in 3 years.Many Many trips down Firebird raceway.They are a very good dist for a working mans budget.I dont know where they would be weak in the heat.Yes you do need to run a ballist resister with them(I think it a 7.5)

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Old 05-24-2002, 10:15 AM
GTOPhil GTOPhil is offline
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I run a small-body HEI conversion from David Ray and highly recommend him.

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Old 05-24-2002, 05:27 PM
RAM YAK II RAM YAK II is offline
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Hey Firebird.....I think Ponco Pete said the Pertronix was OK but the Unilite was the one that failed the AZ heat test. My son lives in Phoenix and he installed the Pertronix setup in his girlfriends '63 Falcon (gasp)and it has worked great for 2 or 3 years. Just my comment.

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Old 05-26-2002, 11:03 PM
ponchopete ponchopete is offline
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Firebird72_4 ME,
While I agree that the Mallory distributor is a quality piece, heat does seem to pose a problem for the Unilite modules. Working in a parts store, I sell quite a few replacement modules. I do have the occasional customer that has had a Unilite in their engine for years with no problems, but for every person who hasn't had a problem, I run into ten people who have. Granted, some problems are attributed to faulty or incorrect wiring, the vast majority seem to be related to excessive heat. I think the major issue is that if the particular vehicle has a high level of underhood heat already, when you stack the Phoenix heat on top of it, it's too much for the module. As a side note, it seems the older models don't really have any problems. Ever since Dana bought out Mallory, the quality has seemed to drastically slip, and module problems have become much more frequent.

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Old 05-27-2002, 12:03 AM
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I've used a unilite dist. for over 16 years on the original module and a matching mallory coil. It has a date code of 5-85 on it and has worked flawlessly even with a MSD7AL box. Changed the cap and rotor once (and can.t remember when I even did that!) Now a friend of mine had one in a small block and constantly had problems with the shafts getting sloppy/wearing out, and blowing apart.

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  #18  
Old 05-27-2002, 08:03 PM
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Bought my 68 GTO in 1983 (California), Unilite module went up the next night. Pulled the Unilite and went back to points, still have Unilite put away in a box. If you do go the electronic route, I recommend you always carry a spare module. If you run a MSD with electronic distributor you don't use the module anyway, but keep the module in the car in case of the MSD fails, had one of those fail too.

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