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#1
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I've seen a few conversion solutions out there. What is your opinion on the swap you did and which setup did you go with? I'm about to do a swap on my sister's 63 wagon...
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#2
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scarebird has a bracket setup.Ken at East West has used a Volvo setup and a few of us have used the Wilwood 9in ford rear setup.I have them on my wagon and my coupe.Very happy with them.Tom
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#3
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Here is the Wilwood set up Tom is referring to. I will be running the same set up on my car.
Big thanks to Dave Johnson for doing all the engineering work!
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James 1970 Trans Am Spotts Built 484" IA2, Highports, EFI Northwind, E85 Holley Terminator X sequential EFI fabrication and suspension by https://www.funkhouserracecars.com/ Last edited by R 70 Judge; 01-18-2006 at 09:40 AM. |
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#4
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James 1970 Trans Am Spotts Built 484" IA2, Highports, EFI Northwind, E85 Holley Terminator X sequential EFI fabrication and suspension by https://www.funkhouserracecars.com/ |
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#5
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Actually,Rick Johnson did the engineering work on the Tempest Wilwood disk brake
. I made some refinements to it and I am very happy with it. |
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#6
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I used the parts that Mark at Scarebird made for me & the list of parts I needed to go & buy from NAPA. Everything fit & worked fine. The car stops 10 times better now than it ever did with the stock 4 wheel drums! I went with a MC from a ford Fairmont that had a 7/8" bore & did not need use any power assist & they still work great! I would use Mark's parts again. I also went with those speed-bleeders at all 4 wheels, those they sell at Jeg's, $10 for a pair; & those save a lot of time getting all the air out of the lines. I also bench bled the MC before I put it on my firewall.
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
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#7
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Here are the brackets that I got from Mark, the other parts I bought new fom NAPA, they got a core charge on the Calipers so I brought some with me. I got them at the junkyard for about $2 or $3 each, I used the ones off of a 1984 Pontiac Trans Am. NAPA charges like $15 or $17 per as their core charge.
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
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#8
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Peter, did you have to use longer studs on the hubs? If so, do your recall what length? Thanks
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC |
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#9
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I just finished installing scarebird's setup. It went together fairly easy. Be sure you grind down the head of the upper bolt that holds on the bracket for rotor clearance. If you use the Strange Engineering master cylinder (B3359) be prepared to cut away part of the sheetmetal bracket that runs from the stock master cylinder mount foreward along the wheelwell. You will also have to create some clearance for the brake lines using a ball-peen hammer.
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http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/[email protected] |
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#10
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Good question, longer studs on the hubs? I actually have mine with me today to drop off and have longer studs installed.
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A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed. 1966 GTO Hardtop - PS 14.84 @ 97mph |
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#11
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I used the wildwood set up. Made my own brackets out of 1/4 aluminum. Used original brake hoses. Countersink the top hole and use a allenhead coutersunk bolt to take care of the clearance problem. I used longer wheel studs to mount my american racing wheels. [email protected]
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#12
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Yes I used 1/2" -20 by 1 & 5/8" front studs. The Ford MC I used has the
line outlets on the side that faces towards the engine which eliminates any cutting or grinding of original sheetmetal or that tri-angle brace for line clearance.
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
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#13
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Anyone have a part number on the Weatherhead 7/16 nut to 3/8 inverse flare
adapter? i cant seem to find them. Also, what are the torque specs on the braket bolts? |
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