About Us

bob65gto · 08-07-2006, 07:23 PM

Need some help. I noticed quite a few posts regarding as to where the cage nuts and housings were sold. I was lucky enough to have a friend at work make the ones I needed.

I also checked into having them made and found that the cost for setting up the tooling was not inexpensive and I would have to buy a minimum of 1000 pieces. This would reflect a resale of about $5.00 each.

My question is: Is there enough interest?

I have enough for my car - just trying to help the restorers. I know it is also used on other GM models.

Thanks for the input.

mitchgto · 08-07-2006, 10:46 PM

I would need 3

Pecosbill · 02-09-2010, 11:25 AM

Bob, did you ever find a source for these cage nuts?

My442 · 02-09-2010, 01:17 PM

Ground Up Restorations in Conn. carries them.

Pecosbill · 02-09-2010, 03:47 PM

I actually ordered and received three of them from Ground Up, but they are not correct for the cage nuts that go under the trunk pan. They are more like the ones under the floor pan. There is little, if any, side to side play in the ones they sell, unlike the original that had a little bit of "float" in it to allow for small differences in the mounting of the body back onto the frame.

Norwood · 02-09-2010, 08:42 PM

What is the application for these?

70badboy · 02-09-2010, 09:31 PM

Would these be for the rear body mounts? I had one break loose (rear drivers side) and I had to saw the bolt into. What do I need to do to replace this?

Pecosbill · 02-09-2010, 11:50 PM

These are for the mounts nearest the rear wheels. They are covered on the top by the trunk floor and are the ones that usually rust out. When removing the car from the frame these nuts broke free of their cages and just spun. I had to cut into a perfectly good trunk floor in order to grab onto the nuts so I could remove the body mount bolts.

Some guys have just welded the nuts onto the brace under the trunk pan, but without any play in a welded in nut you run the risk of having a tough time getting it to line up right to mount the body. Also, without any play you run the risk of having the stress and flexing of the body pop the weld off or tear up something else. The nut was put in a cage by the Pontiac engineers for a reason.

Pecosbill · 02-09-2010, 11:51 PM

1964 GTO convertible is what it goes in Norwood.

70badboy · 02-10-2010, 12:07 AM

I wonder if these are the same for a 70?

My442 · 02-10-2010, 12:22 PM

The cage nuts were designed to aid the assembly line process.

60 seconds to do all the bolts. With the pointed body bolts, it was easy to find the nut and drive it home.

Air tools and a pit on the assembly line.....I did it at the Framingham BOP plant in 1972.....

1bad65 · 02-13-2010, 12:45 PM

PecosBill,

I just had the same thing happen to me on my 1965 GTO, one of the nuts came loose and the other bolt snapped after 3 turns. All the other came out with no problem. Looks like I'll also have to cut into a perfect floor as well. Can this be done from the bottom if I put the body on an auto twirler? Do you have pictures of what you did? Did you ever find the right cage nuts? Looks like I'll be needing a few as well? Thanks.

Pecosbill · 02-13-2010, 01:32 PM

Well, I just got off the phone with my body guy and he says that the cage nuts I got from http://www.SS396.com are good replacements for the ones under my trunk floor. So my previous post was in error.

Bad65, I had to cut into the trunk floor from the top to get to the nut. I took an air chisel and cut a three sided flap in the trunk floor and pulled the flap up. I took measurements from underneath the car to try to pinpoint where the nut was located, but when I first cut the flap I was off by about three inches too far to the outside of the car. So I had to widen the flap by about two more inches. As soon as I rolled the flap back I was able to see the nut. I then just put a pair of vice grips on it and then un-did the bolt from the bottom. My body guy says he will be able to fold the flap back down and weld it up and when he's done you won't even be able to see where the flap was located. We'll see. But he's done some pretty incredible metal work for me before, so I have confidence in what he's saying.

1bad65 · 02-13-2010, 03:43 PM

pecosbill - Thanks for the information. I really didn't want to cut the trunk pan, but i did. After reading your previous post, I measured and cut and whamo the nuts I cursed yesterday came out today. One came out with ease, the other required me to cut the nut in half and it then broke loose. I'll post some pictures for other members to see. Do you have part numbers for the cage nuts you bought? It's amazing that the other bolts came out with ease and these 2 were stubborn. I'm sure the body shop will do a great job with both of our cars. Thanks again for the help.

Pecosbill · 02-13-2010, 05:00 PM

Part No. BCN-716. Price is $6.95 each. At that price I'm glad I only had two go bad.

1bad65 · 02-13-2010, 10:52 PM

Thanks pecosbill. Here are some pictures of what I had to do to get to the cagenuts in my trunk. I gently hammered the sheetmetal back into place and when all is said and done it should look good. As luck would have it, I had a similar issue with the lower fender on the driver's side. I thought I could get the stud out with lockjaws after it snapped, but after an hour I gave up and cut it out. PM me if you have questions. Thanks again for all your help.

70badboy · 02-13-2010, 11:05 PM

Would these cage nuts be the same on a 70 GTO? Mine is the last back one on the drivers side?

1bad65 · 02-13-2010, 11:30 PM

Hi. I'm not quite sure where they're located on a 1970 GTO but if you measure correctly, you should be able to find where you need to cut. I used a grinder with a cutting wheel on it and it cut the metal with ease. Just take your time and be patient and you'll get them out with no problems. Good Luck.

Menu

About Us