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Old 08-08-2006, 11:32 PM
tomscars tomscars is offline
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Default Conversion of master cyl from single to dual '66Bonneville

After a year of planning and searching for info regarding this subject I began to assemble the necessary items. The old master cyl on my Bonne finally gave up the ghost, so time to fix-it. I had determined that my car was equipped with Delco-Moraine system, so I ordered a new Master cylinder for a '67-'69 Full size car with Delco-Moraine system.
When we (my son and I) tore it apart this evening, I found that the pushrod is too long by about an inch or inch and an eigth. I noticed that some members here had made reference to this situation. My question is-- Is the determination of proper length a matter of experimentation, or is there a starting point predetermined by past experience on the part of enthusiasts ?
Asking those who have done this before, did you use the existing booster?
Any tips are welcome.

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Old 08-08-2006, 11:51 PM
mike nixon mike nixon is offline
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there are different depths of the push rod hole in the master cyls. i'm not sure which one's correct for your app tho. someone will chime in i'm sure.

on my 65 gto i'm gonna have the booster rod changed to accomodate the master i used. [ it needs remanned]

mike

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  #3  
Old 08-09-2006, 10:05 AM
meanolgoat meanolgoat is offline
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Tom,

When I did this conversion on my 65 Catalina, My car had the long Booster Pushrod, I used a Dual Master Cylinder from a 69 Camaro w/ 4 wheel drums ( this M/C needed the same long puchrod). I plumbed the lines to a Distribution block from a 67 LeMans w/ 4 wheel drums and then to the front and rear brakes.

I was hoping I could use the M/C from the 67 LeMans as well, but it used the shorter pushrod. I went down to my local parts store, where luck would have it the counter guy owned a 65 GTO, and we pulled some master cylinders off the shelf, until we found one that would work. Which turned out to be the 69 Camaro M/C.

I mounted the distribution block to the inside of the frame rail under the Booster and behind where the original single distribution block was located. There was some pre-drilled holes already in the frame. I believe these holes are there for the Clutch Linkage on the 4-speed cars.

I do not have the Part Numbers handy, but I hope this information helps.

Let me add,
It is possible to change the pushrod out of the M/C Booster for either the long or short rod. I talked to a couple of shops in the Cleveland Ohio area to have this done, and both said they had done it in the past, but had been sued by owners after thier cars were involved in wrecks, so they would no longer do the conversion. They would only rebuild the Booster to its original configuration. Check the shops in your area.

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Old 08-09-2006, 03:41 PM
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Crashmh Crashmh is offline
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I just did this conversion, this past weekend, to my '66 Catalina, except I also converted to power brakes. When I was researching, I found the replacement booster for my car was the same listed as the '67 Firebird and the replacement dual master cylinder for the firebird (4-wheel drum) was also the same as the '67 Chevelle, Nova, Camaro with front drums, so I purchased the booster listed for my car (I believe the one I got was the Bendix type, small and rounded) and the master for the Firebird w/ front drums. Everything fit together perfect. At the same time I rebuilt the wheel cylinders, replaced the rubber and all of the steels and hung the pedal at the higher pivot. I ran the rear line from the rear of the master, and ran a line from the front the same as the original set up was, to the distribution block. A plug in the open port, where the rear line once connected, and the car stops better than ever!

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Old 08-09-2006, 05:12 PM
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Deadhead Deadhead is offline
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I just did this on my '66 wagon & had the same problem. I could not find a good way to get the right measurement I needed, so I just cut it on the car, rounding the end off as it was prior with an air tool & abraisive attachment. If you get to the end & you are still off by a 16th or so use washers to get it right. Just sneak up on the right length or you will need the rod stretcher.

I used a Moraine MC from a '67 big car and a metering block from a drum brake car with a dual MC. If you search this forum you can find my whole description of how I did it.

It should go fine. The biggest pain on my project was finding the right flare fittings. That & slamming my thumb in the door

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