[goquick]

I like the 4" stroke crank idea. But I do have a question that I hope isn't taken as a cut down, as it should not be in any way. Why is the crank counterwieghts flat nosed? It is proven that an aero or as lunati does, with their "wing" design makes power by creating less windage. When going though the effort to tool up, why not get it done then?

[PONTIAC DUDE]

I don't favor a long rod ratio higher then what really makes acceleration and quick reponse work in a street car. I have played with quite a few different combos and street/strip cars.

The long rod works with a 4.250 stroke becuase it is weak to begin with, but when you start talking 4" and other ratios.
APPLICATION and bore/stroke come into play as far as what I feel................ results in quicker ET's with a street car.

Also remember that head flow plays a part in rod length with a N/A application.

Now Power adders is a ALL new ball game.

[crazypont]

goquick- I would have loved to bullnose the counterweights but I was working from an already available casting. I am looking into the cost of changing the molds.

-Dave

[bird412]

Since most factory engines hae their pistons around .023" deck height and aftermarket pistons are the same or a little more (hence the need to zero deck the block), then the added stroke of .020" with a stock rod length of 6.625 with an off the shelf piston sould put you right at zero deck or close. Instead of making a shorter rod, how about a bearing spacer or a thicker bearing (.050" under) so you can run a Pontiac rod/piston combo on these stroker 4.25 cranks. Some of us want a little better than stock but don't want to spend big bucks for custom parts. You can get a set of KB pistons and aftermarket rods for a Pontiac for $100 more than the custom forgings you need to run this crank with BC rods. For a street engine, you don't need top of the line race parts and I doubt you can buy Chevy rods in 6.800 for $100. So if you could find someone to produce the eeded bearing, the Pontiac piston/rod would be the cheaper solution for a street engine. Problem is, no one makes one.

[goquick]

bird412; I think you would find that the cost is no more than 300 bucks. I'll spend the 300 dollars for an overly strong part vs. a "maybe it's ok and maybe after it breaks I'll replace it" part everytime. The guy who said that to us came back in 3 weeks after having another shop do his stock rods and pistons in his car. The parts were wild looking fragmented paperwieghts.

[goquick]

Dave, I thought you was starting with an all new tooling piece. I do know what it takes to make that tooling as I used to do tool &die making.