[copper128]

Originally Posted by Mark C.

Copper, couldn't find much on dedsleds. Can you help out?

Ask dedsleds about it on his parts for sale post: http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthread.php?t=503554

He should still have the rear sway bar from the 74 G'ville. I was listed on eBay last week, but didn't sell.

Glenn

[JD-Iowa]

Also known as snubbers. This is a device typically found at RV sales offices, but a lot of hitch sales outlets have them as well. Back in the early 70's you could see any number of passenger cars including Lemans's and Cutlass's pulling 3.5 to 4 ton campers using one of these and when properly installed the car road level with the camper attached. Some practice at setting this up is needed as improperly set up they can lift the rear wheels right off the ground in a severe dip as in some gas station entrances or camp site entrances. This device effectively transfers a portion of the towed weight to the front of the towing vehicle by minimizing the torsional flex at the hitch. It looks like small torsion bars that are clamped to the hitch a-frame of the trailer and connect to the hitch receiver. If I remember correctly it takes a class 3 or 4 hitch. Even the newer pickups and large SUV's have these installed to pull large bumper pull campers. It has been at least 20 years since I needed one of these since I pull goosenecks now so I am going by memory how these worked. They are very effective though and been around for at least 50 years.

[Mark C.]

Hey great info guys. I'm gettin' pumped. This is more doable that I thought. I mean I know the car is capable, I was concerned on getting the right set up.

Okay, to recap. I need a class III hitch w/load levellers. Air bags for the rear springs. Tranny cooler and a trailer brake control. Rear sway bar, just curious,is this necessary? And yes the trailer has brakes on all 4 wheels.

[Stuart]

I believe Steve Barcak uses a '61 Safari as his tow vehicle, and he's hauling cars all over creation. You may want to contact him for advice.

[DanC]

Originally Posted by Mark C.

Hey great info guys. I'm gettin' pumped. This is more doable that I thought. I mean I know the car is capable, I was concerned on getting the right set up.

Okay, to recap. I need a class III hitch w/load levellers. Air bags for the rear springs. Tranny cooler and a trailer brake control. Rear sway bar, just curious,is this necessary? And yes the trailer has brakes on all 4 wheels.

Hey I'm glad we could pump ya up!

Minimum equipment would be Class III, load leveler, tranny cooler, and trl brake controler.
Oh and you'll need towing mirrors so you can see behind you, especially when turning! Your car probably has "regular" flat body chrome mirrors so you can use the CEPA (or some brand like that) towing mirrors that clip on to your existing mirrors. Our O'Reilly's carries them in stock. Otherwise you need to do some eBay searching for the old fashion fender mount (removable) tow mirrors like I have (dang sport mirrors!).

The Air Bags would be optional and not required if you go the 'Load Leveler' route. On my first Roadmaster, a sedan, I put air springs (bags that went inside the coil spring) in it but when the bag got rubbed though was when I had a camper hitched up and guess what 1-800 Road Service! My RM wagon, which has the factory tow package, uses a coil spring rear suspension and had air shocks for it's auto load leveler system, which is now deactivated as I removed them and installed Caprice Taxi/Police shocks and it tows fine without a sway bar (not part of the tow package).

DanC

[Steve Barcak]

Yes, I do have 10,000s of thousands of miles towing with my 72 and 61 wagons as well as my GTOs.
If you have any welding skills, or know somone who does, you can find a used receiver hitch (even on off of a pickup is possible ) and adapt it to fit your Bonne. I can also check my yard to see if I have an extra.

A rear sway bar is a good idea, I also recommened air shocks and air bags (air lifts). It is great to use both instead of depending on one of them. HD springs are a good idea too. Find a set off of a '70 wagon as they are heavier. Again, I may have a pair, I would have to check my yard.

make sure you are using a dual axle trailer with elect brakes on both axles.
For safety and better control, mount your brake controller as close to your st wheel as possible. This makes it easier to use trailer brakes without having to take either hand off of the st wheel. Mounting it way low and far from the st wheel , as most do, is a bad idea.
I also highly recommened an equalizer hitch. These units make a world of difference in stability, you probably can find one used to save money.
A transmission temp gauge, cooler, 4 row radiator, HD fan clutch.

Another thing I strongly recommend is checking the load rating on your rear tires. After many rear tire failures while towing (!), I have gone to light truck tires that have heavier load ratings and the problem has gone away.
On my wagons, I use 235/75 -15 LTs or 10.50x 31s on the back of my wagons.
I adapted a GTO rear sway bar for my '61. With a bit of thought, you can fab a rear bar from somwthing too if you can not find a kit or don't want to spend that much.
Finally, depending on your experience with towing, take it easy on your speed, be careful when big semis blow by you and on down hills, keep a finger on the trailer brake controller and use it. Remember, to change your settings on the controller as needed. It should not be a 'set it and forget it' componant. I use higher setting on the freeway and lesser ( as needed) in town.
Always leave lots of room in front of you with whatever you are towing with.
If you have any other questions, just ask.

Steve Barcak www.pontiacheaven.org

[Mark C.]

Thanks guys. I couldn't ask for better help.

Mark