[ry57pont]

What is the best drag racing u-joint to buy? - Thanks Ryan

[Brian Baker]

Brute Force 1350 is all you'll ever need.

[ry57pont]

Who makes it?

[wrench]

I think Brute Force is the actual company name. I use Spicer 1350 U-joints and haven't broken one yet.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by ry57pont

Who makes it?

Don't know. That was the brand name on the box. Do you know how to use google?

[Tim Corcoran]

Any forged u-joint 1350 series would do the job. Brute force are plenty strong and are readily available. The zerk fitting if in the body of the u-joint is a failure point. Some u-joints have the zerk fitting on the end of the cup, in this case the zerk fitting would not reduce strength.

Tim C

[455_regal]

AutoZone now stocks them, 14.99 each.

[Jagtec1]

I use Neapco, zerkless.

[76transam76]

Im running a solid saginaw u joint and I believe I was told it was good for 700 hp depending on vehicle weight of course. But the 1350 will be the top of the line.

[67 Lamnas]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

Any forged u-joint with no zerk fittings made of 1350 material would do the job. Brute force are plenty strong and are readily available.

Tim C

I thought that the designations such as 3R and 1350 are the style and dimensions...not so much the material....can someone help me understand?

[Tim Corcoran]

67 LeMans, you are correct, 1350 is the size, or also referred to the series. I guess I am getting a little sloppy in my posts.

Tim C

[67 Lamnas]

I wasn't trying to be nit-picky, was just confused....

[Brian Baker]

Had the Brute Force 1350 U-joints in the Discomobile on a 3.5" x .083" mild steel shaft. No failures with upwards of 800-HP pushing 3850 lbs. These joints do no have the zerk fitting and are solid.

[Ron Genovese]

I've been using spicer joints for years with no complaints!

[60man]

What about Lakewood u-joints ?
I thought about them .......
Unfortunatly I can't run 1350 joints..I'm stuck with 1310 series due to my funky two piece drive shaft...I could change front & rear joint over to 1350 but not the center...so why bother ??
I have only roached onejoint so far in 4 seasons..
Car weighs 4,000+ pounds with 550-600 HP.
I am going to try Precision 324 Super Strenght grease less joints.
I've had good luck after going with Precision joints with zerk fittings so I figure solid joints should hold...
Don't really have a Spicer dealer near....

[455earlybird]

60MAN
You got some torque to launch that thing with a 1.50 60' . A lot of weight to get going on 1310 joints. I'm impressed. Always liked your launch picture.

[60man]

Originally Posted by 455earlybird

60MAN
You got some torque to launch that thing with a 1.50 60' . A lot of weight to get going on 1310 joints. I'm impressed. Always liked your launch picture.

Thanks for your compliment man...the weight factor is why i'm upgrading the joints again..increasing torque again this season..
Until I replaced the joints when I first got the car I was under the impression they were 1350 joints....boy was I surprised ! I replaced them with Precision #235 joints. I had bought some Precision greasable (end cap)Super Strenght joints but never got around to putting them in. Well I broke front joint about 25 races ago. I put a Super Strenght joint in. Now I am going with the solid Precision SS joint....no grease fitting...anywhere.
$26.95 at NAPA...I'll put them to the test...

[60man]

Originally Posted by Jagtec1

I use Neapco, zerkless.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.. Baker uses Brute Force. When I checked Advance Auto for a good joint I came up with a listing for a Neapco u-joint. It listed three different qualities. Top of the line "Lifetime Warranty" line was Brute Force ! Is Neapco the same as the Brute Force that Baker used..

I'm going to order one for a spare and compare it..
Adavance price is only $15.00.......that makes me suspicious.
That's $11.00 cheaper than Precision SS & $32.00 cheaper than Lakewood.

What say you Darin ???

[Cliff R]

We use and recomend the Brute Force joints, 1350 series for serious work.

FWIW, one of our customers used the joints from Advance Auto, cause he worked there, and busted one. The joint exploded, driveshaft comes out, pushes up on the transmission tailhousing, snaps the TH350 off at the bellhousing, driveshaft goes out from under the car, cuts the sidewall of a brand new MT slick! Pretty costly end result to save $15 one U-joints!.....Cliff

[60man]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

We use and recomend the Brute Force joints, 1350 series for serious work.

FWIW, one of our customers used the joints from Advance Auto, cause he worked there, and busted one. The joint exploded, driveshaft comes out, pushes up on the transmission tailhousing, snaps the TH350 off at the bellhousing, driveshaft goes out from under the car, cuts the sidewall of a brand new MT slick! Pretty costly end result to save $15 one U-joints!.....Cliff

So what you are saying Cliff is that the Avance Auto joint is NOT the true Brute Force ?? Where do you get The Brute Force joints ??
Did your customer use the Brute Force joint ? Was it the greasable one ? Just asking because they offer different quality of joints..
I just mentioned price just because....not after CHEAP joints. But I know a lot of guys running the Precision SS joints (both kinds) without problems...
Belive me...I wish I could upgrade to 1350's....