[455_regal]

between the top and base, the gasket gets wet in front, seeps down a bit, weeps. Changed the needle and seat. I just changed the pump to a holley Red style, holds 6psi. It did the same with a stock mechanical pump. WHen I took the top plate off I ran a block and emery cloth over and it didnt have any high or low spots. It runs and drives fine, just sick of the wet look.

[455_regal]

its a stock 7043262. If you pull the top plate off, the fuel is about a 1/4" below the top base, I dont see how it can be soaking past the gasket.

[Schurkey]

As soon as you hit the brakes, or if you have much engine shake, the fuel will slosh forward and wet the gasket. And/or: any chance you've got vapors or even liquid fuel coming out a vent and wetting the casting? Might appear like a leak when it isn't, actually.

You've checked the top, but what about the main casting? (Is is warped?) I haven't seen a straight Q-Jet in years. They're ALL warped, as far as I knew. Too many guys figured the attaching bolts needed to be set to fifty foot/lbs.

If the top and the main casting are warped as a matched set--I guess--you can be OK. Otherwise, a warped top on a straight main body--or the other way around--will allow the gasket to be unevenly compressed.

Have you considered a gasket sealer such as Hylomar? (NOT silicone!!!) Overall, I wouldn't want to use a sealer on carb gaskets, but in this case it might make an acceptable "band aid".

[455_regal]

napa lists the top gasket for a 7043272, same?? Otherwise what about that spray on gasket maker, let it dry then put it back toghter? I did it 2 times, let the pump run for a few minutes, then took the top off, the gas is lower then the gasket but still weeping, the front vent is open, nothing under the cap even. driving or not, just sitting still it does it.

[Kenth]

If you don´t know the age of the float, get a replacement and set to approximately 13/32".

Never ever use sealants on carb gaskets..........

[Old Goat 67]

You are going to have to check the trueness of both the air horn and main body gasket surfaces with a metal straight edge. You will probably find some warpage of the air horn where the bolts go through. Whether you can coerce that back to true is a big IF. Sometimes I have been able to tweak them back to true with a couple of well placed wackes with a wooden block and a ball peen hammer (while having the piece supported well), but not always. May need a new carb.
Charles

[Indiangoat]

My air horn gasket wicks fuel too. I went to Borders and read a new book on quadrajets (not the Roe book). It had lots of pictures. They described this problem and showed someone using a sander to grind away the low spots near the bole holes. I tried it. It worked. I have less seepage, although I think I might have ground just a little too much on that side of the air horn. Does anyone know where too find thicker air horn gaskets for the Pontiac 1967 Rochester MV?

[Kenth]

In the dark ages i used to sand the warped horns too, now i use shop press and press the horn straight after heating the horn up some.....

[67 Lamnas]

I had this same exact problem.....airhorn gasket weeping fuel. Sent the airhorn to Cliff for straightening....got it back, same weepage problem.....lowered the float, leakage went away but a very nice stumble at tip-in developed.

Float was set too low creating a lean condition. Set the float to 9/32....no leaks, no stumble. I run 5-1/2 psi fuel pressure. Problem solved.