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#1
03-20-2007, 02:00 AM
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How To Remove Wing Window Rubber Molding
Hello,
I have a 1962 Tempest Convt. Has anyone tackled replacing the rubber molding around the wing window? The bottom of the wing window attaches to the frame. The attaching stud goes thru a "hole" in the molding. I cant pull the glass up enough to clear the molding because the top of the outer frame is riveted to the glass frame. Do I need to drill out the two rivets and if so will any pop rivet gun work to replace them? Thanks, Don S.
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 1966 GTO 1966 421-10.1-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons KRE Tri-Power KRE 65cc Aluminum Heads XE274 cam by Comp Cams DUR 230 Int 236 Exh @.050 - 110 LSA LIFT .491" Int .491" Exh Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers 1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed 1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears |
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#2
03-20-2007, 09:39 AM
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Tiemann told me the rivets need to be drilled to do it.I have owned wing rubbers for 7 years and just have not got the guts to tackle it.Let me know how it goes.Tom
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#3
03-20-2007, 05:07 PM
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Hi Tom,
Ill let you know. Do you think a regular pop rivet tool will work? -Don
__________________
1966 GTO 1966 421-10.1-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons KRE Tri-Power KRE 65cc Aluminum Heads XE274 cam by Comp Cams DUR 230 Int 236 Exh @.050 - 110 LSA LIFT .491" Int .491" Exh Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers 1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed 1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears |
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#4
03-20-2007, 06:52 PM
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I really never got that close to doing it when I found out what I had to do.I have a frame laying around and will take a look at it.Tom
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#5
03-20-2007, 10:47 PM
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Don,
I replaced mine last year and yes I had to drill out the rivets. I replaced them with 1/8" stainless pop rivets. I just drilled out the lower ones and sprung the frame open to remove the glass. Tom |
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#6
03-20-2007, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
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#7
03-20-2007, 11:56 PM
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procedure in body manual has rivets being removed and then replaced.
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#8
03-21-2007, 01:01 AM
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Tom63Lemans-
What tool did you use to reinstall the rivets with?? The rivets you drilled out, are they the two that attach the top of the window to the frame? They would be #1 & 2 in my pic. These arent seen so I figured it would be easier to get non chromed rivets. #3 is of course is a chrome rivet. That would be the easiest to drill out but again Id have to install a chrome rivet. Your experience is appreciated. To Tom S. & Larry Ill add more pics as I progress with this.(I too can do alot of the other things on the car but this window stuff is a little scary). Engineer thanks for the response. -Don
__________________
1966 GTO 1966 421-10.1-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons KRE Tri-Power KRE 65cc Aluminum Heads XE274 cam by Comp Cams DUR 230 Int 236 Exh @.050 - 110 LSA LIFT .491" Int .491" Exh Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers 1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed 1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears |
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#9
03-21-2007, 02:39 PM
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All 1 2 & 3 are rolled & formed in place by a machine, they not simple rivets that you can replace for the proper strength with hand tools at home. I believe that they are all 3 stainless steel.
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
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#10
03-21-2007, 07:37 PM
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Don,
I didn't drill out any of those rivets. I'm working from memory which isn't all that good. I removed the screw from the bracket at the green circle and the rivets and possibly a screw at the red circle and seperated the vent from the vertical track. I removed the nut and spring and spread the frame open for the stud to clear the hole. I was then able to replace the seal. It was difficult to spread the frame enough to clear the stud but it worked. The seal wraps around both sides of the pivot so those rivets do not have to come out. Good luck, Tom 
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#11
03-21-2007, 11:04 PM
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Hi Tom63Lemans,
Well, I spread the frame and I got the seal out. Frames a little bent, but I think I can bend it back. Did you use any adhesive on the seal? I assume you used a screwdriver flat blade to push the seal back into the frame? Thanks for your response, Don
__________________
1966 GTO 1966 421-10.1-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons KRE Tri-Power KRE 65cc Aluminum Heads XE274 cam by Comp Cams DUR 230 Int 236 Exh @.050 - 110 LSA LIFT .491" Int .491" Exh Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers 1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed 1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears |
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#12
03-21-2007, 11:14 PM
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Don,
I think I used a little black 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the front edge but won't swear to it. I did use a small screwdriver to push the seal into the frame. Tom |
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#13
03-21-2007, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Sincerely, -Don
__________________
1966 GTO 1966 421-10.1-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons KRE Tri-Power KRE 65cc Aluminum Heads XE274 cam by Comp Cams DUR 230 Int 236 Exh @.050 - 110 LSA LIFT .491" Int .491" Exh Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers 1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed 1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears |
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#14
04-05-2007, 08:49 AM
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Vent Window Rivets
I also plan on replacing the rubbers on my vent windows and have found some good replacement rivets. They have a shoulder on them so that the vent window will move freely. I think they are zinc plated? I found these on ebay a while back but don't remember who I got them from. I had to buy a lot of 10 so I will have several extras if anyone needs them.
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