[Department X]

I got a 428 that was rebuilt by a shop a few years back just getting a round to cranking it up. It has a comp hydrolic roller 230/230. I remeber the builder put restrictors in one side of the block in the lifter bores and the other side he restricked one passage that controled the the lifters on that side. My question is should I be running restrictors on a hydrolic roller? Back then every one did it because there was not a lot of retrofitted street rollers, manly race stuff. If I should remove them were do you think he put the one restrictor that controls a bank of lifters?

[BDHABT]

Originally Posted by Department X

I got a 428 that was rebuilt by a shop a few years back just getting a round to cranking it up. It has a comp hydrolic roller 230/230. I remeber the builder put restrictors in one side of the block in the lifter bores and the other side he restricked one passage that controled the the lifters on that side. My question is should I be running restrictors on a hydrolic roller? Back then every one did it because there was not a lot of retrofitted street rollers, manly race stuff. If I should remove them were do you think he put the one restrictor that controls a bank of lifters?

I wouldnt use restrictors with a hydraulic cam.


Mark.

[Jack Gifford]

My Crane hydraulic roller lifters are designed to not require any other restriction. I imagine that Comp's and Crower's are the same.
I'm just guessing- that he probably put a restriction into the passage in the front block face that feeds oil from #1 main up to the front of the passenger-side lifter gallery.

[Department X]

Thanks Jack, is that a pipe plug or a press in passage?

[Jack Gifford]

I have no idea how someone blocked that passage. If lazy-me were doing it, I'd probably just drive a tapered aluminum plug in from the main saddle end.

[Karch]

I had restricters in mine when I was running a solid flat-tappet, and was told to remove them when I switched to an HR.

I took them out while the engine was still in the car, and dropped 4 of them!!!

Man, was I concerned...but I was able to fish them all out with a magnet...thank goodness for the windage tray.

[SWEETJUDGE]

pontiac jack would love to see THAT HEMI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! pontiac style.

The restrictors should be threaded, HYDRAULIC means needs or uses oil. so i would take them out. Id check all possible passages so NOT to miss any. usually a threaded plug is used take your allen wrench & magnatize it, & you wont dropp your plugs.

[455-4+1]

Originally Posted by pontiac jack

I have no idea how someone blocked that passage. If lazy-me were doing it, I'd probably just drive a tapered aluminum plug in from the main saddle end.

I restricted that passage on my sprint boat engine. Just tapped the passage for a threaded allen set screw with a drilled restriction and screwed it in (deep enough of course)

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by SWEETJUDGE

... would love to see THAT HEMI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! pontiac style.

wallaceracing.com has a copy of McCarthy's PE article about my hemi- search for 'hemi'.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Karch

...but I was able to fish them all out with a magnet...

Many times, lifter bore restrictors are made from brass or non-magnetic stainless steel screws, especially in aluminum blocks.

[Karch]

Originally Posted by pontiac jack

Many times, lifter bore restrictors are made from brass or non-magnetic stainless steel screws, especially in aluminum blocks.

Granted, but I purchased a box of 50 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 set screws with a nylock patch almost 20 years ago, and drilled them on a mill with an 0.030" or so cobalt drill bit.

The ones I did were magnetic. I never thought of using brass, and would not use stainless, as there is absolutely no advantage to using stainless.

But, I do understand that if someone were to have stainless or brass, they could have this problem. Obviously there's a fix for this, but it's labor intensive.

[Department X]

thanks guys for the respones been out of town for a few days. I was hoping to hear that I didn't have to go into the block but it's better now before I put it in the car

[Jack Gifford]

My post#10 about non-magnetic pieces was meant as a 'caution note'- we tend to think "If I drop this, I can fish it out with a magnet". I've learned to take extra care when removing non-magnetic stuff. When I was competing, I wound up changing a number of fasteners from stainless to plain steel, if they were part of "at the event" maintenance.