[Birdguy]

Although I'll be using my 'Bird as a daily (I hope!) driver, I want the suspension components to look really nice. I just received a lot of new parts (tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, bushings galore, etc) and need to know what is recommended not only for looks but also for durability. Some parts I want to be satin black, and others a medium grey. I am assuming that I need to paint everything with epoxy first, and then apply the topcoat, but am unsure of what to use. Thanks in advance.

[irgoatmike]

I think you'd be best served by an epoxy primer, followed by an industrial enamel. An industrial enamel will go on thick, be hard to scratch all the way to bare metal and if you do want to touch it up after driving it, you can literally brush in repairs. Seen it done enough times to verify it works well. irgoatmike

[Bandit400]

Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black

[Birdguy]

I was wondering about the Eastwood line of products, but haven't read much about them from folks who had actually used them. Are their chassis paints one-part or two-part systems. If they are one-part, how do they compare to other two-part products in application and durability?

[carcrazy]

I have used a few differnet products. Zero Rust is a nice uncatalized paint that works very well. Can get at autobodystore.com. I have also used PPG DP90 epoxy primer.

[rub]

This is for a 69 chevelle, but it should give you an idea on what it will look like with this paint. Heres the paint and primer.

http://www.1969supersport.com/paintprimer.html

On my web site you can see what each one looks like under chassis photos.

Rob

[RASK]

Why not keep those parts as the factory had intended? Many pieces were bare steel. Eastwood makes a diamond clear Satin for protection of these parts, clean them well and spray it on, at least 3 coats for good coverage. If you specify the model and year of the car, I'm sure the guys will be happy to tell you what should be what color. Most Eastwood specialty paints are rattle can that can be used on bare metal or with their Acid etch rattle primer for better adhesion.

[Birdguy]

I had considered leaving everything "natural", especially since it will be a driver, but I've seen examples of components done in black and medium grey, and they looked so cool it changed my mind. Sure it will be extra work on top of everything else that needs to be done, but I think when I see the results it will be worth the extra work.

I did order a quart of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black today that will go on top of the DPLF90 base. Hopefully the Eastwood will work as well as they say.

[MikeC]

Don't laugh, but I used Rustoluem Hammered look on my GP control arms and that stuff is tough. After 30 day's it hardens like powder coat and does not chip..... I spray a couple of coats so it does not fish eye (hammered look) and it comes out almost slightly metalic looking. I will using it on my 68 bird also.

[Kerry H]

Would POR15 work ???

[Birdguy]

According to the POR-15 folks it is UV-sensitive, which means the black will fade to a grey color over time when exposed to sunlight. I don't know what the silver POR will fade to, maybe white? As a matter of fact, exposure to sunlight will cause POR-15 to lose its rust-preventive properties and it will, in their words, "fail".

With all this taken into consideration I am convinced that the way to go is the epoxy/Chassis Black route.