Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 12-23-2007, 02:13 AM
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With a front plate or ears and no lateral bars what keeps the engine from moving rearward under hard acceleration?

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  #22  
Old 12-23-2007, 08:55 AM
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Darin...look into Allpontiacs front motor plate that goes outside the timing cover. No extra work and will make things easier if you ever have to remove heads in the car.

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  #23  
Old 12-23-2007, 09:37 AM
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The front plate/ears and the mid plate are bolted to the frame as well as the engine/transmission. I also use a limiter that is made of steel rod and bolts to a one of the holes that is used for the stock motor mount and a bracket on the frame.

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  #24  
Old 12-23-2007, 12:05 PM
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Default ears

i used them for years in various cars no problems

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  #25  
Old 12-23-2007, 12:36 PM
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[QUOTE=Ron]The front plate/ears and the mid plate are bolted to the frame as well as the engine/transmission. I also use a limiter that is made of steel rod and bolts to a one of the holes that is used for the stock motor mount and a bracket on the frame.[/QUOTE

That answered my question....Thanks Ron. You dont have any pics of that limiter set up do you?

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  #26  
Old 12-23-2007, 12:47 PM
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Sorry but no..and it is a real PITA to get a pic....I was looking at it this morning. Since the car is a tube chassis car it sits low and the headers, primer, etc does not allow me to get a good shot from the top.

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  #27  
Old 12-23-2007, 09:14 PM
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[quote=Jack Ferris]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
The front plate/ears and the mid plate are bolted to the frame as well as the engine/transmission. I also use a limiter that is made of steel rod and bolts to a one of the holes that is used for the stock motor mount and a bracket on the frame.[/QUOTE

That answered my question....Thanks Ron. You dont have any pics of that limiter set up do you?
Took this pic when re-did the front of the car, All Pontiac front plate, Chris Alston mid plate, poly trans mount and the limiter bars are made up of thick wall tube with heim joints and mis-alignment bushings and grade 8 hardware.
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  #28  
Old 12-23-2007, 10:57 PM
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Wow...great installation. Very sanitary but functional. Kudos!!!!!!

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  #29  
Old 12-24-2007, 01:30 AM
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I didn't know you were tubular Ron. Thanks anyway!
janderson-Thanks for the pic man. Nice fabrication work.

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  #30  
Old 12-24-2007, 08:22 AM
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i had never seen rods underneath motor plate car. are they really nec? are they just to jockey the motor around to bet all the tabs lined up?

  #31  
Old 12-24-2007, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Zeek
Darin...look into Allpontiacs front motor plate that goes outside the timing cover. No extra work and will make things easier if you ever have to remove heads in the car.
Ditto Jim. Front Plate is like having another cross member to help stiffen the frame some more too....
Darin without some kind of motor support you risk a lot more than just hood damage from air pan.....Just ask me.....I'll tell you...
I lost my file pics of last motor destruction but I think you remember it !!
Just ask Jack G. and Brad also...
I just think you would like a AP plate in the long run...it does the job and out of the way..

Nice install Jess...think I'll look into stabilizer rod..

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  #32  
Old 12-24-2007, 09:42 AM
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I may still use the AP plate. What's another $130??

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  #33  
Old 12-24-2007, 11:59 AM
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I went tublar in April. Got my license and having a blast.

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  #34  
Old 12-24-2007, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagtec1
I may still use the AP plate. What's another $130??
If you go with the AP front plate, ask Bob or Frank to bend it for lower radiator hose clearance. Mine is bent a little further from the timing cover than they do (needed mounting area for the crank trigger), but last I heard they will do it for no-charge.

And thanks for the compliments...it was an a$$ of work.

Troy, if you do decide to install limiters, call or drop by the shop...lunch offer is still open.
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  #35  
Old 12-25-2007, 10:47 AM
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Agree with Jessy on "new" style AP plate for hose clearance. I had to do some creative engineering for my lower hose. That extra 1/4" looks to be the cure. I think all the AP plates are made that way now. Maybe Bob or Frank can clear that up. I will eventually replace my old style with later style. Too many other things on "to do" list right now..
Now that I think of it. Not sure I need limiters since my motor/trans is tied down at three places.....
Thanks for lunch offer Jessy...got a 3 month race lay over coming..

Right Darin...what's another $130.00 as complared to loosing the motor from stress fracture at motor mount pad...I am convinced that what sent my block south....
I operate on a budget so I understand..

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Do it now fool! Life is short.

69 Grand Prix/3163lbs / IAII 535 w/ Tiger heads by Gaydosh....9.35@ 144 so far.. through mufflers. 1.26 60'.
Going back to track with pump gas engine....
My 60 Ventura retired to street/strip duty..

Last edited by 60man; 12-25-2007 at 10:54 AM.
  #36  
Old 12-26-2007, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagtec1
I think I'll use them. I got 2 nice pieces of Aluminum, just over 1/8" thick.
Probably just a typo, but you would want to use something in the range of 3/8" aluminum.

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  #37  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:31 PM
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My BOP front plate is 5/16. The Chris Alston mid plate is 1/4.

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  #38  
Old 12-27-2007, 01:16 AM
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Well, I did speak to Jack tonight. He said it would be fine to use my original plan. The AL is .175" thick, and will be mounted with 3 bolts on each head, and 2 bolt to the angle welded to the frame. I am going to give it a shot, and anticipate no ill effects. It certainly won't be worse than ONLY using the stock motor mounts (Jim Hand mod on DS) that I have been using until now. We will find out in March! I got both heads on tonight, and will do the ears this weekend.

An All Pontiac front and mid plate is in my future, but beefing the rear end up and going to a solid roller has eaten my wallet for the winter.

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  #39  
Old 12-27-2007, 02:50 PM
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Casual Bob at CRI has a set or 2 of Motor Mount Ears in the works. 1 set for him, 2nd set for ?

  #40  
Old 12-30-2007, 05:24 PM
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Can anyone post some pics of where the angle is welded to the frame?? It does not sit level, and I'm thinking of making shims to get it to sit correctly. Pics would be great. Thanks!

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