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#1
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Hello all,
I will be changing the front sub frame on a 68 Firebird any helpful hints or things to watch out for? Any suggestion on what sub frame connectors I should use? This is my first Firebird project so any advice on parts for this swap would help. Vince |
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#2
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Removal and replacement of the subframe is pretty straightforward. Are you going with an aftermarket subframe?
As for subframe connectors, I am happy with Global West. They really hug the bottom of the car, the weld in the rear and bolt in the front should you need to remove your subframe again. I think some diehard drag guys will say that they prefer full weld-in connectors. If you want the welded ones, I would recommend Detroit Speed & Engineering's (but you have to cut your floor). Here are my Global Wests: ![]() The contour to the bottom of the car, about 1/2" off the floor pans. The fit is excellent. Phil |
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#3
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The tricky part for me was aligning the frame back to the body. One of the tricks is to use the alignment holes at the firewall to frame bushing mount to get everything lined up. BTW, if you're using subframe connectors use solid body mount bushings. I have bolt in Competition Engineering sub-frame connectors and they work well but don't look near as nice as Poser's.
Good luck |
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#4
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I installed DSE's subframe connectors and am really happy with the results. They're a little more work than others because they run through the rear floor pans but doing so makes a them more integral to the unibody chassis. Protouring.com has a sticky in the suspension section illustrating the installation.
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#5
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i second the recommendation of global west connectors...
__________________
John J. ![]()
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#6
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Quote:
I will check out the Global West bars thanks for the input. Hopefully they have a set for a convertible Vince |
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#7
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They do. But I think I will opt for the Hotchkis setup.
__________________
"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
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#8
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Even when using the 5/8 alignment pins , you can still move the front of the subframe sideways. With mine the engine was out, and I measured from the top of the firewall fender mounting holes to the radiator support mounting holes and under the car you could take measurements at the rear of the subframe to the body. It's a good idea to level the car ,side to side, before welding in frame connectors. (Sorry,my connectors were homemade).
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#9
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just make sure those 5/8 alignment pins are long enough to protrude.
Then you can gauge if its plumb. |
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#10
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I made my own too, tc...saved a lotta money too
Theyre basically like DSE's, just straight steel tubing, and I welded the rear and the full length of where they penetrated the floor, and bolted them on up front. This makes them much more integral to the body and keeps them totally unseen as well as helping with ground clearance. Vince, theres a detailed diagram of chassis/frame dimensions on my site that may help you too.
__________________
A friend will help you move...a GOOD friend will help you move a body. |
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#11
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The frame is out and honestly I do not know what was holding it in? But on a good note all four mounting bolts came right out! Has anybody used the Hotchkis setup for sub frame connectors they have a setup just for the convertibles that offers more support and of course more welding too. The floor has a couple issues but the area around the frame mounts look solid. There are a couple holes on the drivers side that will need patched but this car will just be a cruising car not a showpiece.
Vince |
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#12
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Looks to me like your frame is fairly rotted around the mounting holes (common). They have sections you can buy and weld back in.
__________________
"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
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#13
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I have purchased a donor frame from a guy who replaced his with a performance front frame and suspension. The frame came with a 326 that runs great so we will also lose the six and install the V8. I really need to make a decision on the sub frame connectors soon.
Vince |
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#14
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Great score on the frame.
Post the OHC 6 for sale here, there are several guys still running them, including me. |
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#15
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Bill
The six was running but it was also leaking a ton of oil. It has around 103,000 miles on it and who knows if anything has ever been done to it. Vince |
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#16
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Leaks are easy. Motor mounts are hard. I just used my last one this last weekend. I have been hoarding them for 20+ years.
Oil pump housings, distributors, cam covers etc are all very difficult to get for the cammer guys and I know someone would be able to use what ever you can't. |
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