[428bird]

I bought a IA 2 block (which took me about 7 months to recieve) the block really does look good but there are a few quaility control problems that I've found. 1 the oil holes on the lifter galleys are tapped to deep blocking the oil feed to the right side of the motor. 2 the main bearing holes don't line up very well with any of the bearings that I've tried (you'll need to grind them). 3 the intermedate shaft was a little long but a easy fix. 4 the stock oil pan gasket will not even come close to the rear main so you need to take alot of time and hope you get lucky sealing it with two rear gaskets. 5 stock motor mounts need some grinding to make them fit.6 check the decks really close because they been having cast problems there??
This in no way is meant to knock this block you just need to check everything you can think of and post it online so the next guy can have a easier time putting this thing together

[Polar-Pontiac]

Holy Chit from the way this board talks I figure that block was damn near perfect.

[Mo]

Originally Posted by Polar-Pontiac

Holy Chit from the way this board talks I figure that block was damn near perfect.

That is damn near perfect!

[johnsma22]

Given the assembly sheet that All Pontiac posts for download on their website detailing what the responsibilities of the builder are, I'd have to agree with Mo. That is damn near perfect!

It also states that if a defect is found that All Pontiac must be notified immediately. Did you contact them before posting this?

[2manyponchos]

Have had to enlarge the holes on stock motor mounts and solid mounts to fit a FACTORY block. I'd say that can be attributed to poor quality control on the mounts. Just my opinion.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Originally Posted by 428bird

I bought a IA 2 block (which took me about 7 months to recieve) the block really does look good but there are a few quaility control problems that I've found. 1 the oil holes on the lifter galleys are tapped to deep blocking the oil feed to the right side of the motor. 2 the main bearing holes don't line up very well with any of the bearings that I've tried (you'll need to grind them). 3 the intermedate shaft was a little long but a easy fix. 4 the stock oil pan gasket will not even come close to the rear main so you need to take alot of time and hope you get lucky sealing it with two rear gaskets. 5 stock motor mounts need some grinding to make them fit.6 check the decks really close because they been having cast problems there??
This in no way is meant to knock this block you just need to check everything you can think of and post it online so the next guy can have a easier time putting this thing together

I don't understand #3. Explain. Might be a one off or batch deal?

#4: FWIW: With the recessed main caps this was a given from the get go. Gotta love that Grey Permatex silicone. On race SBC circle track engines I don't even use the front or rear pan seals. Just silicone.

I have bought 3 of the last batch. No issues. But haven't used restrictors but will check with the 2 current ones I have.

I have elongated the main holes in the IA blocks. I just do it as a given. Also a Nice thing about FM bearings is the longer oil feed slot too. I also relay any issues of info I see straight to Bob or Frank. I know they appreciate it and pass it along to the shops that do the work.

All things that can be checked need checked when your assembling any aftermarket engine or changing anything from a factory standpoint.

Most don't have the experience and run into troubles thus creating many issues. But all info helps the non professionals.

[Mr. P-Body]

We've recently (in the last two months) built a couple of those blocks, and have a third in here right now. What we've seen (and told AP):

The black-finished pipe plugs that come with the "kit" are not tapered properly and WILL go too deep. We simply use Pioneer pipe plugs and the problem is gone (not a machining problem, a "parts" problem).

The Felpro "Performance" pan set works fine, but the front lip must be "doubled up" or filled with bubba-CONE.

The oil pump driveshaft must not "bottom" against the top of the pump. The ones we've had have not, but we were told to look at that when we bought the block.

These are not "show stoppers", and the overall quality of the important aspects is very good.

We didn't see the bearing/oil hole alignment issue, but we HAVE seen it in factory blocks. We deck them to "zero" so the decks are fine.

All in all, it's a fine piece. It is completely "in line" with the Merlin, Motown, etc. "corporate" aftermarket blocks for fit, finish and accuracy. ALL aftermarket blocks need SOME attention. None are "ready to run" out of the box, unless your supplier has already taken them out, finsihed them and put them back in (such dealers like Competition Products who supply us with Chevy stuff).

FWIW

Jim

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Hey Jim. Ya need about 40 of those black plugs. I thought they were just extras. Bwahahahahahahaha.

[Skip Fix]

I have found pipe plugs of different manufacturers to be WAY different how deep they go.A real pain for water passages.

On my IA2 my Canton pans did have to be "massaged" for the rear main. seemed a hair wider at the block junction. Nothing Mr Ball Peen couldn't handle My pump intemediate shaft was actuall a hair loose so the distributor is not bottoming out on it.
#4 cam bearing was a little tight so we polished the cam journal a little. we also ground slightly on the main cap to use a factory dipstick.

All of the bolt holes were properly tapped. The main seal fit well. And everything else was a good fit.

Hoepfully will finally hit the dyno this month after the PSN this weekend!

[DeWayne]

428bird,
I have a chance to trade my 455 for a complete LS1 with ECM What would you do now ?
The 455 number 3 has been sleeved already, and I'm close to having all the parts and ready to put together
I have a set of Holset small twin turbos that I would like to get around 500 to 600 HP. The turbo's should work just fine on the ls1

I'm worried the stock block will not last, and finding 455 are getting hard to find.
My plan was to get a IA2 block later. saving for one. but after seeing the recall letter on the MR1 and having to pay the shipping both ways for a defect........ What is the shipping about $500 one way ?
My wife would kill me if I spent 3k-4k for a block and it had a defect and have to spend 1k more for shipping and what if the 2nd block has a defect ?
The car is a 1973 TA.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body

We've recently (in the last two months) built a couple of those blocks, and have a third in here right now. What we've seen (and told AP):

The black-finished pipe plugs that come with the "kit" are not tapered properly and WILL go too deep. We simply use Pioneer pipe plugs and the problem is gone (not a machining problem, a "parts" problem).

The Felpro "Performance" pan set works fine, but the front lip must be "doubled up" or filled with bubba-CONE.

The oil pump driveshaft must not "bottom" against the top of the pump. The ones we've had have not, but we were told to look at that when we bought the block.

These are not "show stoppers", and the overall quality of the important aspects is very good.

We didn't see the bearing/oil hole alignment issue, but we HAVE seen it in factory blocks. We deck them to "zero" so the decks are fine.

All in all, it's a fine piece. It is completely "in line" with the Merlin, Motown, etc. "corporate" aftermarket blocks for fit, finish and accuracy. ALL aftermarket blocks need SOME attention. None are "ready to run" out of the box, unless your supplier has already taken them out, finsihed them and put them back in (such dealers like Competition Products who supply us with Chevy stuff).

FWIW

Jim

Jack ran into the opposite problem when assembling mine. The coolant plug at the rear of the block on the passenger side would not screw in flush with the block. In a conventional mounting arrangement not utilizing a full midplate, this is not an issue. For me however, I had to grind the plug flush with the rear of the block in order to properly fit the midplate to the rear of the block for mounting in the funny car chassis.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Skip. The Canton pan on my current engine had a leak along a welded seam. Had to mig weld it in the car as it's a lot of trouble to pull it and the pan. I guess the pans aren't checked for leakage when they leave the factory? But one in a 100 plus sold so far I guess is good odds in todays market?

Still a good piece.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by Chris Roach

If the public hasn't made up their own minds on this subject by now, maybe they need to take up another hobby.

Chris, there are new members to the hobby all the time that are not privy to the information that has been disseminated thus far.

[Paul Spotts]

I supply All Pontiac with the plug kits. The black plugs are a special 7/8 taper NPTF - the "f" is for fine thread. These were required on the early run of blocks and impossible to find. The machining was changed, not the quality of the plug. There is a special tap for those plugs, and I now use them in stock blocks - its 3/8 NPTF and should be coated (like TiN) for cast iron. Once my supply is done of the black plugs (I purchased a 1000 of the plugs), the kits will have standard 3/8 npt plugs. This also happened with the 1" pipe plugs in the back. The black plugs are actually called "dry seal, flush fit plugs" The fine thread and different taper allows the seal to take place in high pressure situations, not really applying to our usage. At least the pioneer 3/8 plugs are easy to get.

The brass plugs have some issues as well. These can be slightly porous sometimes and have threads that will allow the plugs to go into the block. I usually coat them on the inside and use either right stuff, grey permatex or brown permatex. There are choices with those as well. All Pontiac has a nice billet piece and I recently found an aluminum hex head pipe plug - but they stick out further and could have issues with certain headers.


I also changed the 1/8 plugs to external hex head - used to supply internal hex head and they could round out when removing plugs - Pontiac used external hex plugs as well (they always had great engineering)

So you can see I did a lot of research on the plugs when we tested the first IA2 block, but still changes go on. Its all part of the game.

[Chris Roach]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

I never mentioned any names until YOU DID with your "I hate KRE" rant.

Oh, So your reference to butter was something you put on popcorn? My mistake!

[Skip Fix]

I will agree let's not get this into a KRE bash.

But also Chris once you get "bent over" you tend to remember it.

Ken I had my F body pan deepened 1.5"

[GTOGEORGE]

Brian never got (so called) bent over, he probably has never even talked to KRE, he just wants to bring KRE down. Obviously he needs to get a life.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Brian never got (so called) bent over, he probably has never even talked to KRE, he just wants to bring KRE down. Obviously he needs to get a life.

They seem to be doing a fine job all by themselves. Word of mouth travels farther than anything posted on this board. You know what else, George? People are judged by the company they keep...when you defend the actions of shysters, what image do you think you're portraying for yourself?

[GTOGEORGE]

Gee! Coming from you, that almost bothers me

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Gee! Coming from you, that almost bothers me

Just think, for every one of "me", there's 10 more that think the same way and say nothing.