[Tim john]

I would suggest calling Dave or Marcel at SD Performance and see if they have an engine (spare) available that you could pickup already finished and freshened or talk in detail about your intentions and they will help get you there at your pace. Fantastic people to deal with. You will be impressed with their service.

Tim john---

[ho428]

Since the engine is the single biggest expense I'd work the car out first. Just get a mule 455 to drop in. Forget about 11's for awhile. Make the car hook and drive straight, good tranny, rear, cooling system, fuel system, SAFETY, etc...

Why does everyone always look at the big hp engine first? It ain't worth crap without the rest of the package.

[Mr. P-Body]

Jeff,

"Walk before you run" is good advice.

Pontiacs are only a little more expensive than small blocks, and less expensive than big blocks until you reach the 750-plus HP range. A 600 HP 383 isn't going to be "cheap". Oh, there are some cut-raters out there selling them, but the parts used in them are not "premium", and the engines won't live a long life. Initial cost of an engine is only that, initial. If you buy one that's built with quality parts, it's gonna cost, no matter what color it's painted. If you buy one based strictly on price, better buy two or three, 'cuz they "ain't gonna live..."

I agree with Greg about the 4" stroke in a "race" application, just not the large-journal. I have yet to hear a valid argument for using the large-journal blocks, outside a "restoration". This assumes you don't trip over a 421 or 455 Super Duty block somewhere... (highly unlikely)

Jim

[JEFF KIEHN]

now what do i need to get the chassis up to speed and tire sizes and widths?

[ho428]

Jeff
My advise before turing a single wrench on the car would be to go to some local races and check out similar size cars. It'll give you a good visual reference to build off of.
See what they're running, et and speed, brakes, tires, running gear etc...
The combinations are almost infinite. From stock to mini tubbed, back halved or tube frame.

But I'd start by replacing all bushings with solid or urethane, and all new suspension parts, upgrade the brakes. I'd probably mini tub the rear to get as much rubber under it without narrowing the rear. Find a good axle to build off of. (Already mentioned) Maybe go straight to a spool instead of a posi.
If it's a race only you might want to just gut everything out of the inside. Install new wiring and master switch. Put in at least a 6 point cage to start and a good racing seat and harness. You can use the stock gas tank but it's old and questionable, a small fuel cell would be better.
All that so far is cheap and you'd be ready to install a drivetrain.

[BVR421]

And get Jim Hands book. Its the most current 'bible' for hot street Pontiacs.
Practical advice for all of us.
In addition it has street and track proven recipes for several variations of 13, 12, 11 sec engine builds. Jims book de-mystifies Pontiacs. He has been learning for 50 years.
I second the motion to start with all new suspension components and brakes. Learn the 4Link GM rear suspension tricks. Dick Miller Racing has an excellent $10? book on that.
Maybe do a mini-tub and basic rollbar. Even an economical honest 400hp will be astonishingly fast if the traction issue is addressed. Fast for a while and then you are hooked!
Dont make the common mistake of buying expensive wheels and tires until its really ready to roll. A one year project usually turns into 3 yrs and the tires get old before they even go down the street or track.

[JEFF KIEHN]

thanks so much guy you all have been a huge help! i will post some pics as i go and thanks again for everything!

[Thumpin455_GTO]

You dont need a 600hp engine to run 11.50s. 10.50s yeah, 600hp will get you much closer. You can get mid 11s from an engine with less than $4000 in it, way less and that is using good rods and pistons, with iron heads. Build a 455 or 440 with the 4" crank and 11s are almost as easy as falling off a log, provided you arent pulling a barge like Darby and his Catalina. You can have streetable 11s without too much hassle, and not terribly expensive.

There are a few on the board here who have done it on the cheap, all you need to do is find the one of us who has a car of similar weight and copy the basic combination. That will get you close. Cliff Ruggles is running that fast with a stock intake, so its more the parts you use than how much they cost. You can use mostly reworked stock stuff and get the times you want. Build it so it will live a long time, you will be happier with it.