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#1
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I recently aquired a 43.000 mile '76 Pontiac Grand Prix 350 (one owner car).
This car is all original and it runs and drives and runs great except for a really strange issue with the steering system which really worries me! What happens is the following; When I take a corner and turn-in somewhere between 1/4 and a 1/2 turn I can feel a resistance coming up through the column. At the same time I hear a "clunk"like noise. One friend on mine thinks its a problem inside the steering box. I personally don't think that a 43.000 mile box could really have such a big deficiency. My thoughts are going to a worn rag joint / steering coupler. I can't believe it has anything to do with the steering column itself (non-tilt) since the car isn't your average old worn-out ride. Anyone got some ideas on this, maybe I'm missing something here?!? Erik
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'67 GTO hardtop coupe 400 2bbl (sporting a 4 bbl) '70 GTO convertible 400/400, matching numbers, Currently getting worked on again, body in the bodyshop, engine at the machine shop etc!!) '71 LeMans Sport T41 Coupe restomod (GTO clone with Judge stripes and wing) 400/350 '71 LeMans Woody Wagon 400/350 patina project 1975 Grand Am 400 factory sunroof project car |
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#2
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Sounds like it's got a control arm bushing[s] bad.
Mike
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
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#3
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I'd agree, sounds more like a control arm bushing issue than steering box. There basically rubber, so they're probably rotted after all this time.
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"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
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#4
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Check the endlinks for the front swaybar too. That will make a sound to get you worried too. I've seen them break and unless you get down to look you won't see it.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#5
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I agree with Pittsburg, something has to be worn out or binding.
Should be easy to spot with car up in air and checking for play by moving wheels in and out at top/bottom and left and right movement while someone watches for play. Charles |
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#6
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Erik, It's impossible to diagnose this car without seeing it..
I would put it up in the air supported by it's front wheels and check it out.. If it was a rag joint I would think it would make the noise every full turn of the wheel... Since that car is so old, I would remove the whole front suspension and replace everything except the control arms and springs.. Those low mileage cars are some of the worst as far as rotted parts. I see people at shows drive vintage cars on old dry rotted tires that I wouldn't use for the tree swing.. Remember time is also against this car. They were only designed to last 10 years... Best to put it up in the air and take the whole front end apart so you can see what's really going on... I get all my suspension parts from either e-Bay or Rare Suspension.... http://ecomserv.bytedesigns.com/rp/ |
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#7
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Erik, I to have exactly the same problem.
I have new bushings in the front end, new steering box, rebuilt column, new rag joint, all new ball joints,center link, end links. shocks and springs. Nothing left to install new. I drives me insane that neither I or the local best frame and suspension company can find the problem. I do agree that something is binding, just a matter of finding out what it is. Mine is mostly when I turn right. Daniel |
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#8
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I haven't been able to look into this issue any further.
The GP is going to the bodyshop tomorrow for a 2 tone paint job. All I do know is that the problem is the same going left or right... The car had just passed our pretty strict annual tech check. If a balljoint is bad or so I would have failed the test. Maybe there's some play in a control arm bushing...but it cannot be very bad. Then the car would have failed the test as well. I'll get back into it as soon as the car gets back from the bodyshop. Erik
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'67 GTO hardtop coupe 400 2bbl (sporting a 4 bbl) '70 GTO convertible 400/400, matching numbers, Currently getting worked on again, body in the bodyshop, engine at the machine shop etc!!) '71 LeMans Sport T41 Coupe restomod (GTO clone with Judge stripes and wing) 400/350 '71 LeMans Woody Wagon 400/350 patina project 1975 Grand Am 400 factory sunroof project car |
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#9
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Missing shims in the upper control arm cross shafts? Ive had it happen.
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Bud Lawrenceville GA 73 Firebird 96 Impala SS |
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#10
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Got the car back form the bodyshop.
Started looking for possible causes and I think I've found the problem. The intermediate (collapsible) shaft has some play in it where it is connected to the steering column of the car. However I don't know if I need to replace the whole intermediate shaft or just the coupling? Anyone know what part number(s) I need to order? Thanks
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'67 GTO hardtop coupe 400 2bbl (sporting a 4 bbl) '70 GTO convertible 400/400, matching numbers, Currently getting worked on again, body in the bodyshop, engine at the machine shop etc!!) '71 LeMans Sport T41 Coupe restomod (GTO clone with Judge stripes and wing) 400/350 '71 LeMans Woody Wagon 400/350 patina project 1975 Grand Am 400 factory sunroof project car |
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#11
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Are you talking about the steering coupler joint down by the steering box?
If so, GMU 77 on PY, $59.00 |
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#12
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Old goat 67
No, I'm not talking about the steering coupler (which I thought was the culprit before). It is the upper part of the shaft that's connected between the steering coupler and the steering column itself. There's play in the part where the small shaft goes into the wider housing (it has some kind of rubber seal where the small shaft goes in). This is the collapsible part of the column. erik
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'67 GTO hardtop coupe 400 2bbl (sporting a 4 bbl) '70 GTO convertible 400/400, matching numbers, Currently getting worked on again, body in the bodyshop, engine at the machine shop etc!!) '71 LeMans Sport T41 Coupe restomod (GTO clone with Judge stripes and wing) 400/350 '71 LeMans Woody Wagon 400/350 patina project 1975 Grand Am 400 factory sunroof project car |
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#13
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I recently fixed a similar problem on my GTO. It was one of the pinch bolts on the tie rod sleeve pointing upward and rubbing on the oversized sway bar that I had on the car. I thought my remanufactured box was the culprit, luckily it was something simple.
Dave |
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#14
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2 people deal
get a friend to slowly turn steering back and forth thru the point of interest you get under hood and observe all from steering column down thru tie rods etc. listen for rubbing, clunks etc, place fingertips on shafts etc to feel a clunk. Dont get yer finger pinched! (8-) |
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#15
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Quote:
This is the best way to determine the location of said noise, a 2nd person, as BVR421 suggests. Just as a mental note, I've seen sway bar end links make contact at certain points of travel/steering from being too long, or the bolt being installed from the bottom, with the exposed threads/nut at the top. (Which is backwards) I've seen a number of end link listings being wrong for applications too. As a reference, with the car on the ground, loaded as if it were going down the road, wheels straight, the end of the sway bar should be almost horizontal, with a slight downward attitude. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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