[grandville455]

Yea we have tried two different dist and two different modules, and Like Tom Says I can pull it out of the Block and it sparks awesome!. I have been finding alot on moparts.com about this and it seems this quite common with the mopars!..either the damn bulk heads or wiring somewhere. When I go back this time I will have a schematic and some good info for tracing the circuits now. Thanks Tom for the site!

[jdw_poncho]

To test for a bad ground run a new wire from the battery ground to the dist while its out and spin again. Just strip back and shove under the cap so it will hold it while you spin. If the spark goes away I'm guessing the pick up is shorted to the dist body. Did you say you tried a new pickup?

[grandville455]

what do u mean have the cap hold it? hold it against the steel body of the dist? yes this is a brand new dist, old one does the samething as far as the no spark thing..

[jdw_poncho]

Originally Posted by grandville455

what do u mean have the cap hold it? hold it against the steel body of the dist? yes this is a brand new dist, old one does the samething as far as the no spark thing..

I was thinking this would be a easy way to hold a ground wire so you could hold the dist and spin it at the same time to check for spark. Stick it between the cap and the body of the dist. My guess is if you ground the dist your spark will go away. I was thinking just use a seperate wire from the dist to the battery - post so you could double check that it acts the same as if its mounted in the engine.

You said you have a blue spark at the coil wire. Does that mean you have the wire off the dist cap? If so, have you checked it by leaving it on the cap and using one of the spark plug wires instead?

[grandville455]

Yes I can try that to mimic what the block does.. Yes I have tried it at the plug no spark.. same as at the coil.. sparks once then nothing while cranking.

[Greg Reid]

This is getting back to the 'start' and 'run' position theory but...You know it sparks outside of the block with the switch in 'On' but what about 'Start'?
Just for kicks, have you tried taking it out of the block and spinning it while someone holds the key in 'Start'?

I guess you'll have to re-time it afterwards but seems like you're running short on ideas.

[salem1912]

Disconnect the brown wire(starter sol) at the starter relay would keep it from cranking while in the crank position.

[grandville455]

No I have not tried that Greg , But I will tomorrow. Tom Are u saying pull that wire off so it doesn't turn motor over, but i can still check for voltage while in the start position on key?

[sleepy]

Maybe this will help. As you can see there is TWO power circuits for the ignition from the key. one in the run position and one for start. I think the wire or connections on the start circuit is the problem.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by sleepy

Maybe this will help. As you can see there is TWO power circuits for the ignition from the key. one in the run position and one for start. I think the wire or connections on the start circuit is the problem.

Yea Definatley thinking something is fubar somewhere!

[salem1912]

Yes it will keep from cranking but should send the higher voltage from the ignition switch to the coil pos side.

[grandville455]

Hey Tom go over to the moparts site and look at what i found tonight!

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...=0#Post5463763

[Greg Reid]

Good going. Just a matter of time now. I hate following previous owners' "work"...lol
By the way, I've had Mopar trucks for years and that site has been a lifesaver for me several times. Usually find the info on the site without having to ask anything.

[grandville455]

Greg this has been a nightmare for my brother! This car is beautiful, but the mechanical **** we have found wrong etc is just unbelievable! used timing chain in it, worn dist, and its gear for oil pump, shot water pump put back on.. and Now this mickey mouse wiring hack job!

[Greg Reid]

Sounds like he just needs to go through the whole thing like a resto. It looks so good that that ought to be good incentive to do the work... It is a beauty.

[grandville455]

Yea this guy did nice work on the body ,but the rest of the crap we have found leaves something to be desired!.Why u wouldn't put in a new harness is beyond us! cheap way out!!.The worse part is it was a cash deal with the guy telling him it just needed some tuning and a water pump!! uh huh!

[Ron Landis]

was this initially a points type set-up? If so....it should require a separate feed wire. "R" terminal and "S" terminal both need to be hot when the key is on. Just a thought. Ron

[grandville455]

I don't think so as he also has a 72 charger same setup. now the 69 motor was originally a dual point thing, but the 72 year car had the electronic, so the dist was changed

[salem1912]

It originally a very good ECU system dependable for very hi rpm's. Other than ballast resistor(which all Mopar guys keep a spare) the system works great That said I have a aftermarket dual point Mallory system in my '72 'Cuda (it came with it). Like I said before Moparts is to mopar guys as PY is to Pontiac.

[blue goats]

When you change over to electronic ignition the factory tach in the rally gauge set up won't work any more for some reason. Happens every time with mine.