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#1
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I have a 69 FB convert. and my A/C works fine as long as i don't switch it to high? If i put it on high it will work for a little while, then blows the fuse under the hood by the alt.? I went from a 10amp to a 30amp and the 30amp lasted a while, but then also blew that one too?
any idea's on what to check? and how? Thanks
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#2
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Possibly the blower motor siezes up after a while or there is a bare spot in the wiring that grounds while driving.
george
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#3
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Being that it will run all day on the other two speeds? I don't think the blower motor?
I will keep checking the wires???
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#4
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If I'm not mistaken, when the blower motor is on any speed other than high, the current flows through some resistors to slow the motor speed down. When on high, the full current is going through the motor windings. Am I correct? The increased heat and speed could cause the bearings to get tight and increase the amp draw above the fuses current rating.
One thing you NEVER want to do to try and correct a motor blowing its fuses is to up-size the fuses above the motor's current rating. That's a good way to melt wires and start a fire!
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John ![]() "There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots!" Last edited by dm_fan; 11-11-2009 at 03:07 PM. Reason: typo |
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#5
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I agree with the description of operation from John. Just something to check...
I had a blower where the outside ring of the plastic squirrel cage fractured and when on high, would expand and rub against the blower housing to the point where it wore a groove thru it. At lower speeds, it was normal. george
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#6
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alt fuse for that circuit is 30 amp, not 10amp.
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#7
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I would replace the 30A fuse on the alternator (only used for the high blower speed) with approximately 6" of 16ga. fusible link wire (soldered, of course). The fusible link section will simply heat up when the alternator surges, instead of a fuse which will continue to blow each time the amperage spikes.
I was fighting the same problem until Mick (lust 4 speed) explained the advantages of the fusible link setup. Les
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Les Iden ---------------------------- '65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23 '66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16) '68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold) '72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16) '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed '09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins |
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#8
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I didn't know that was supposed to be a 30amp? I guess the guy who owned it before me, had the wrong fuse? I will try the fusable link and see how that works.
Thanks,
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