FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Heater core replacement, 66 cat w/ac
Guess who is still procrastinating on getting an FSM....
One of my next projects on my 66 is replacing the heater core. I found an online tutorial that mentioned removing RF wheel, inner fender and loosening bottom of fender to access heater core "door". Is this correct? My brother was driving this years ago when the heater core went and he said it was a spectacular plume of steam inside the car when it blew...don't want that happening again. Thanks... |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
If your blower motor is under the right fender, all the steps are necessary.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=615001
buy the manual, it makes life soooooo much easier. You do not have to pull the blower motor. That is a seperate case. You have 4 nuts to remove on the engine fire wall and 2 on the inside under the dash. Remove vacuum hoses, electrical connections and temp cable. Once the heater box is out, you have to remove the metal cover, I think it has 6 screws? Remove heater core and replace, patrick
__________________
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks. I'll get that manual asap.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
If you do have to replace the blower motor, you can unbolt the inner fender bolts, take a Wonder Bar, carefully pry it loose and tilt the inner in such a way as to get the motor out. I have done this twice without damaging anything. It is tricky but works great. Dealers had a bulletin that told them to cut a hole in the inner, R&R the motor & weld a patch back in.
__________________
"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
heater core replacement
I am new to the full size cars. I need to replace the heater core on my 66 catalinia. can anyone direct me to a good on line source
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I ended up buying the manual on a cd. Got the A/C manual when you go that route. I then printed it out and had it spiral bound at the fed/ex-Kinko's. It lays nice and flat when you are trying to work on something. I divided mine into two volumes so it wasn't so big. Put a copy of the front and back index in both for easy reference.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
$95 from our sponsor here.
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
$35.99 |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
I need to replace my heater core too. The one from O'Reilly's is now made of aluminum. The cores people liked were made from copper/brass. Is there much difference as far as reliability between the two. The ones people complain about from other manufacturers are aluminum. Are copper heater cores still available anywhere?
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
BUT, and this is a big issue to be aware of, you need to ensure you are using a corrosion inhibitor which is compatible to ALL metals contained in your system. Electrolysis caused by the passing of coolant (water mostly) over unequal metals will inevitably lead to system failure at some point. Look at the inhibitor carefully to ensure it is compatible to whatever car you are running. And change it regularly as per the manufacturers recommendations. Ask me how I know all this.......... Ian
__________________
To laugh at men of sense is the privilege of fools. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
I bought mine from Oreilys 3 years ago no problems.
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Jim
__________________
65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
Reply |
|
|