[Mechanic No. 4]

Hi guys, I'm getting an alignment done this week on my "67 G.T.O. that I have replaced all the suspension bushings on, front and rear, all new springs, and all the ball joints and steering components on. I'm running radial tires and was wondering what alignment specs. I should use. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[Hurst65]

I'm interested to hear the responses on this, too.

I just went through the same thing not too long ago and it didn't turn out good at all.

I'll give you one piece of advice - If the shop/alignment technician wants to argue with you about alignment settings and they don't want to do what you ask for... Tell them to put the car on the ground and leave as quickly as possible!!!

[Hurst65]

Well, I'll take a stab at this. Maybe someone else will chime in soon...??


You want some positive caster. How much you can get with stock parts is the big question. I'd say if you can get somewhere around 3 degrees postive caster that would be great. Some like to have more than that (up around 5 -6 dergees) but, that's proly not possible with stock parts. Just to give you an example: My late model Volvo calls for around 3 - 3.5 degrees positive caster and it drives great and is stable at high speeds.

To help it handle a little better, I'd say go with about .5 - 1.0 Negative camber (tops the tires in). You do not want postive camber.

And about 1/16" to 1/8" toe in.

If the shop wants to argue with you about it, GO SOMEWHERE ELSE!!!!!

[amcmike]

Agree with above. Ignore the factory bias ply/understeer specs.

-0.5 to -1.0° Camber
1/16 to 1/8" toe-in
As much positive caster as the stock arms will allow.

Car will have better turn in response, less understeer, and more stable at highway speeds. Wear rate will be comparable with factory.

If the tech starts to argue about factory settings, go somewhere else. Don't stay there are counter argue, they'll probably end up doing it wrong.

When you do find a place, double check to see if they did a proper aligment by confirming extra shimming on the control arms for negative camber and positive caster (should take quite a few).

[Jeff78]

I'll chime in seeing as how I align cars for a living, and I do a lot of old cars. On Monday for example I did a 1947 Desoto and a 1955 Chev PU, amongst my normal schedule.

I would set camber between zero degrees down to 1/4 negative, caster about 1 degree positive. Very little difference side to side, no more than 1/8 degree. Total toe in with radials no more than 1/16" in, preferably a weak 1/16 at that. The toe needs to be checked with weights on the front end to simulate a driver and if necessary a passengers weight. These old cars toe changes quite a bit with weight in the vehicle, some toe in and some toe out.