[GTONUT57]

Just finsihed aligning my 68 window vents and top. What you posted from Fisher book is correct. The set screw determines forward and backward length of front frame. The seration plate aft of cylinder will remove sag and help window alignment. Down will pull rear frame upward and up on serated plate pulls arm down. I would also check your window tilt adjustment. If all else fails use drivers side as template for right side. This is how I set the starting point. This is all spelled out in Fisher body book.

[PontGuy]

I finally worked on adjusting the window line on my car over the weekend. I backed the front set screws all the way out so that they would not limit travel at the front arm joints. Then loosened the bolts at the back and set the position at the serations to give the front more bow. It was actually pretty easy- you can even get to the bolts in the back without having to remove the seat or door panels. Results are mixed- much improved but not perfect. The window line on the passengers side is actually pretty good now. But the drivers side is still not quite right.

There has always been a "gap" at the front that needs to be pulled in to get the latch hooks to engage, even with the hooks adjusted way out. It was a real pita without the cylinders working. I removed the pin a long time ago because it was almost impossible to get it lined up. Now I can use the hydraulics to push the top forward enough to latch, but doing this drives the back arms down and puts a lot of stress on the front actuating arms.

It looks like the front bow mounts are slotted so that the header bow can be moved forward/backward where it attaches to the frame at the lever mounts, but I didn't try to pull this apart. I don't know how the vinyl is attached to the front bow and side frames up there. Is is possible to adjust the header bow forward with the top on the car, or do I just need to live with it until I eventually get a new top installed?

Walt

[nh68gto]

Walt, Raise up the top so you can get to the latches. Loosen the two mounts for the latch. You should be able to move the header forward the vinyl will stretch. Then adjust all over again...lol.

I too have a window issue. Its my pass. side vent window. It has to be pulled away from the pillar way more than it should to be able to somewhat square up the main window with the top. If I put the vent where it should be then move glass to it, front of glass is nice and back over laps the top by like 5/8". I have make every adjustment I know of. Heck, I think the top and all glass is up for maybe six rides out of the whole season.... but it is nice to have everything right.

[PontGuy]

Sounds like you have adjusted the header before and it is possible to do with the top on, good news. I'll give it a shot, and also take more pics so we can do some more comparing.

The holiday weekend was the first opportunity I've had to do some dedicated car work in a long time. Installed new temp/pressure gages, patched a small hole under the trunk seal weatherstrip that was causing a leak, installed new door and trunk locks, and while I had the door panels off found more broken and worn out parts that really need to be replaced. That sort of stuff. Does anyone know a source for new front window rollers? I also need a replacement inner door handle actuator for the drivers side, the part with the splines on it that the door open handle attaches to (the spring is broken on mine.) It seems to be a never-ending saga with these old cars...

Walt

[nh68gto]

Yup can do it with top material on. Raise the top till tension is off the vinyl. From inside you can get a small 1/4" ratchet in there. You may have to take the spring off of the handle, gets in the way sometimes. Loosen both sides and push, then tighten down. Try to do this when the car is out in the sun, will help stretch the top. If that is not enough, you may even be able to undo the vinyl from the header (if is enough) move again and re-staple to tack strips.

[PontGuy]

I got home from work late today (as usual) but found a free hour to try adjusting the header. First thing I found was that both of the bolts were loose, as in never tightened! And the header was all the way back. I moved it forward a bunch, maybe about 1". I found it easiest to do with the top 1/2 retracted so it was pointing straight up, and used a screwdriver to pry the header up and hold it in position on each side while tightening the bolt.

The before/after pics show how much the header moved forward. And now I finally have a nice bow across the windows! I need to put the pin back in and play with it some more to get the best setting, and of course the windows will have to be adjusted to travel further up and back. But at least the air gap between the windows and the top window seals is about even. It will probably take hours of playing with, but now I am pretty confident that I can get it all to look right.

Thanks for all the help!

Walt