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#1
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I have the 2- and 3-hole flanges coming, and wondering if there is anything else I need to get the exhaust pipe to seal to the exhaust manifold?
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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#2
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You should be good to go. Use brass nuts on studs, no sealer should be necessary at manifold to header pipe. Getting close to fire up the old girl??
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Leo |
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#3
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I have used a set of stainless steel studs and brass nuts since 1984 on my car. I just take the nuts off, tap the pipe and the pipe is loose. And the studs do not rust inside the manifold.
__________________
My Wife: "I thought I married a sophisticated business man, but what I actually got was a redneck fisherman with muscle cars." Some people know all of their rights, but none of their obligations. |
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#4
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I have stainless studs and brass nuts on the LH side, the RH studs aren't coming out - I should probably get some brass nuts on them anyway. Yeah as soon as the body goes on I'm going to wire it so I can get it fired before the body work is done.
Got the flanges covered in some VHT cast gray - they should look good for a long time. This stuff looks more cast than the eastwood stuff, wish I would've used this from the start.
__________________
-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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#5
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On 1 or 2 holes where studs were previously,i found it easier to use stainless steel cap(allen head)bolts with anti-sieze.A lot easier to get in where tolerances were tight,rather than a nut on a stud.Just an idea.
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#6
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With the manifolds off and the studs up in the air, I would try creeping oil for a week or two, locking pliers and freeze spray and a hammer. I'll bet you can get them out.
You might also try soaking them in evaporust first to get rid of any rust it can reach in the threads before you start. This will allow the oil to get further down in the threads. I bought some ram air IV manifolds years ago with a couple of studs that were stuck. I finally got them out, and that was before the freeze spray and evaporust. Letting the creeping oil/liquid wrench work helps. If you do pop the pliers with a hammer, make sure to hold everything tight and strike it perpendicular.
__________________
My Wife: "I thought I married a sophisticated business man, but what I actually got was a redneck fisherman with muscle cars." Some people know all of their rights, but none of their obligations. |
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#7
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Here is a pic:
__________________
-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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#8
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Looks awesome Jeremy.
__________________
Leo |
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