[Murf'sDad]

What does PTFB use for bushings in their comp tubular A-arms? The website shows "bronze thrust washers" and "greaseable solid pivots". I understand the thrust washers but there is no explanation of the what makes up the solid pivots.

I'm thinking they would work well with a set of tall ball joints and my 1LE brakes.

Thanx, Stewart

[Skip Fix]

Can't tell what's on the inside or if the tubing just rides on the crossarm shaft.Here's a picture if that helps.

[Murf'sDad]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Can't tell what's on the inside or if the tubing just rides on the crossarm shaft.Here's a picture if that helps.

Thanx Skip. It does look like there might be something like a nylon/delrin/HDPP bushing between the shaft and the arm. I'll be giving them a call.

Did you have any problems with the fit or quality of the arms? Everything I've found so far says they fit pretty well.

Thanx again for the pic.

Stewart

[Skip Fix]

Fit was good. I think the newer ones he's added a bump stop brace. The only problem I had was the 6 cylinder springs I was using(same as on my TA) were too long to get the spindle bolted to the upper ball joint. And of course I couldn't find a decent spring compressor that wouldn't jump off . Not sure if it was the arm not dropping eough or just teh springs.

Dave has some good pieces at decent prices, he's been around the circle track folks is why. Got some good new brake kits using 1LE rotors and big Wilwood caliper too.

[Murf'sDad]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Fit was good. I think the newer ones he's added a bump stop brace. The only problem I had was the 6 cylinder springs I was using(same as on my TA) were too long to get the spindle bolted to the upper ball joint. And of course I couldn't find a decent spring compressor that wouldn't jump off . Not sure if it was the arm not dropping eough or just teh springs.

Dave has some good pieces at decent prices, he's been around the circle track folks is why. Got some good new brake kits using 1LE rotors and big Wilwood caliper too.

Thanx for the feedback. I'm going to have to cut my springs to get proper ride height with all the weight removal but that shouldn't cause a problem.

I've looked at the brake kits but I'd already sourced my new spindles, rotors and calipers. I should have equally as good brakes as with the Wilwood two piston calipers and you can't tell it from stock unless you've got the eyes of a hawk. I like that.

Stewart

[Bigger is Better]

I have a set of Dave's arms and I believe they are a steel on steel close tolerence bearing, so no sort of medium plastic bearing spacer in there. It has been a style used by stock cars for many years, you just have to keep them lubed.

Skip I think you are right, his new ones bo have a droop bushing on the middle cross shaft, wish mine had that! Might have to call Dave about that.

I think PTFB also has taller balljoint option.

[Murf'sDad]

Originally Posted by Bigger is Better

I have a set of Dave's arms and I believe they are a steel on steel close tolerence bearing, so no sort of medium plastic bearing spacer in there. It has been a style used by stock cars for many years, you just have to keep them lubed.

Skip I think you are right, his new ones bo have a droop bushing on the middle cross shaft, wish mine had that! Might have to call Dave about that.

I think PTFB also has taller balljoint option.

Thanx Johnny. Lubing is no problem as long as the lube points are there, unlike installing poly bushings with out grease nipples.

Stewart

[Bigger is Better]

Yeah the grease nipples are at each end of the shaft, a standard straight nipple. As you look at installing them you might want to look to see if a 45/90 nipple in rear of the shafts might make it easier. I havent tried lubing them in the car yet but with the wheels off the rears look accessable on my car.

[Skip Fix]

Johnny I almost thought using a cross bar with a split tubing T on each end we could add a bump stop on the old arms. Haven't made one yet. Mine are on a drag car so didn't know if I should have one if I end up pulling the front wheels off the ground.

And congrats on the hill climb results. On my current drag motors I used a Canton pan but had it deepend 1 1/2" I think that should make it right at the bottom of the crossmember. The Canton GTO pan is 1" deeper than th eF body, had one of those extended forward like the F body pans too.

[Murf'sDad]

Originally Posted by Bigger is Better

... As you look at installing them you might want to look to see if a 45/90 nipple in rear of the shafts might make it easier. ...

I've got 90's that I will probably install so I don't have to go through the wheel wells.

I spoke with Dave earlier in the week and sent him an email yesterday to order the uppers a-arms with tall ball joints and the subframe connectors.

Things are coming together.

BTW there are no bushings on the upper arms. Steel on steel with a thrust washer and grease fittings.

Stewart