| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
started having problems with starter the other day. When turning key, only a clicking noise from under car as is solenoid is pulling out but stater motor not spinning. couple more turns of key and it worked. did it a couple time more so I decided to gut a new ( rebuilt ) one from advanced auto. Put it in and after quite a few starts when getting shimming correct, it started again, with new starter.
Not sure what to do now. maybe starter was hot from many rapid starts, but it shouldn't matter with new starter. Again I can hear clicking noise as if solenoid is working( opposite of traditional hot start problem) but the motor doesn't turn. I guess I can get battery checked but i t seems strange that it works then it doesn't then a second later it does.
__________________
68' Lemans conv. 69' GTO conv. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
It is quite possible that your electrical connection is the issue. How old is the cable attaching the battery to the starter? How good is that contact? How clean is the connection at the battery? If you have repaired the cable with a clamp type cable end at the battery, check that. If cable is old, replace. Sounds like increase resistance when hot. Did you check the cable (to the touch) after hearing the "clicking" sound? If it's really hot, you know your answer.
Usually, the clicking noise is that of the solenoid unable to fully engage the bendix drive (lack of power to solenoid)
__________________
'68 GTO 4-spd Hardtop (11) '68 GTO Convertible AT (1) '70 LeMans Sport Land of Lakes Muscle Car Classic Facebook Event Facebook Wall (Kurt Smith,Minneapolis) |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Do a voltage drop on the cables. The starter may be getting 12v but cant get the amps it needs.
__________________
1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
battery cable is about 1 year old. cable looks good from battery to starter. It does run through the tube in the exhaust manifold. I am planning on routing cable along fire wall and over to starter away from exhaust manifold. Also thought about putting a remote relay in to make electrical path shorter and less connections.
What's best method for voltage drop? check volts at bat and again at starter when key turned to start?
__________________
68' Lemans conv. 69' GTO conv. |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
You need a digital volt meter and connect one lead to the positive battery post and the other on the positive battery cable connection at the starter. Turn it on the DC volt scale and have someone crank over the engine. Any reading you get over .3v is too much resistance in the cable or connections. Same can be done on the negative side.
__________________
1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Or test it statically with an ohm meter and see how much resistance is in the positive and negative side of the system. Either test will work to find a high resistance portion in either side of your system.
When you transferred parts from the AZ starter did you use the new solenoid? the copper disc in the solenoids can get burned spots and cause the same symptoms as they will cause high resistance in the circuit. Low battery voltage will also cause the copper discs to burn and transfer metal as in cranking the starter when it is turning over slowly due to low voltage. After these spots develop on the disc they can cause an intermittent start problem. AZ parts usually are not the best quality as much of the stuff comes from overseas and the quality can be suspect. |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
The problem with an ohm meter is resistance works different under a load. Some broken strands of wire will still make the ohmmeter give a reading where under a load the amps may not be enough.
__________________
1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() |
| Reply |
|
|