[andyleonard]

I mounted some stickier-than-usual tires and am racing at the new Chuckwalla Raceway between Blythe, CA and the Nevada border. 17 turns, 2.7 miles. The same motor that - on Dunlop 204s - at Sears Point and Laguna Seca is fine, on these stickier Hoosiers is filling the valve covers with oil and today actually blew the rubber filler plug out. I have a Canton trapdoor pan, crank scraper, baffle, Accusump, external filter, oil cooler, restricted lifters and pushrods, etc. Pump pickup is 3/8" off the floor. 20-50 Kendall Titanium. 50-60#s at 4000 RPM @ 220* oil, 220* water.

I know there's a thread somewhere about draining the heads into the pan. Can someone point me at it?

Was there ever a '59-'62 drysump setup I can copy? Have to stay period-correct. Thanks.

[mysticmissle]

what heads? wht rpm most of time? and 60 psi pump may still pushes alot more oil than standard hv. may need t0 work on oil return through the head passages.

[x-bird2]

any chance your accusump (2 quart?) is coming on and dumping its load into the system? does the oil pan have the side pockets or is it a trapdoor style with straight down config?

[andyleonard]

#13 heads, 5000RPM average. I'm sure the Accusump is kicking in, as I'm seeing the 20 PSI warning light in the sweepers. Pan is a Canton kit on a stock pan with one kickout and 5 doors.

[x-bird2]

seems like you really do need to get return lines down to the pan off the heads. if the accusump dumps its load you've got that much extra oil in the system for a few moments and it sounds like the oil pump is getting it up top faster than it can come back down--add in the extra and the top end is overloaded. the returns would also likely help prevent it from kicking in as often. In regards to a period-correct dry sump, does it have to be pontiac specific? Plenty of F1-F2-sports racers of that era ran dry sumps.

[Skip Fix]

Might think of some restricted pushrods, although the oil on the top end helps cool the valve springs for those extended runs compared to a drag car.

When I started autocrossing with slicks I started slinging oil out the TH350 vent and had to extended it. Slicks are fun but throw stuff around with the added G forces.

[Bigger is Better]

Are you sure its just not crank case pressure? Your oiling system seems looks pretty good and you will start putting in oil in the heads but I dont think I have ever seen/heard of putting in enough to push out a valve cover plug.

[andyleonard]

We glued the filler cap into the valve cover and added 2 extra quarts. Oil pressure is now stable and no leaks upstairs, but the extra oil is pushing out the front seal at speed. Not enough to quit running, but enough to make a mess.

I don't think the rings have given it up yet, as there's nothing in the vented oil puke tank which is connected to each valve cover with a 3/4" hose. When the rings went last time there was a lot of oil/vapor in the puke tank. For a while I was draining it back into the engine from the bottom of the puke tank into the PVC hole in the valley pan. After a rebuild, the puke tank was never wet.