[65Mark]

What would be the optimum diameter for the wheel? Also what is the diameter of the bolt circle and hole size? I'm going to go ahead and draw up a CAD file and see if I can get some made. My nephew is friends with a guy that uses a waterjet. How deep should the notches be, 1/4"? Thanks for any info you will share.

[krisr]

The diameter can be whatever you want, but the thickness of the wheel should ideally be the same as the sensor tip. With a 36 tooth wheel, you have a tooth every 10*, so you can work out the circumference to work out your tooth width. Your teeth should also ideally be 'square', i.e. the width of the tooth should be the same as the depth.

[Paul Westcott]

Originally Posted by TheMonkey

...all the ford edis wheels were too small.

I've been following your thread here (...cool stuff!) and was just curious as to what's too small about the Ford EDIS wheel? Is it physically too small to attach to a Pontiac balancer or what?

My brother uses a Ford EDIS to trigger his EFI cross-rammed 426 Hemi and loves it. I haven't gotten to that point yet. The HEI reluctor (no module) is working well for me. I tried using the HEI module(s) and never got it right.

BTW - Hanging capacitors on the fuel pump and elsewhere was critical in avoiding "hiccups" and ECU resets on my machine. RF noise seems to come from everywhere! It's trial and error since I have no scope, yet continuous improvement has been made.

Good luck with your EFI Bubble Machine!

[TheMonkey]

Paul-

yes, i remember your posts about putting capacitors everywhere. i'm finding it's trial and error even with a scope!

i did not think the EDIS wheel would work (never actually tried it) because the inside diameter of the trigger wheel needed to be greater than the mounting surface between damper & pulley. i'm using a larger crank pulley & smaller WP pulley, perhaps it would work with non-ac crank pulley, not sure.

do you have any notes on what capacitors you put anywhere and which ones made the most improvement? i put a .01 mf 500v capacitor on my o2 sensor and it did nothing. i think capacitors will help with conducted RF but not radiated RF. my problem seems to be radiated RF. tonight i'll try separating the sensor heater ground from the sensor controller ground. that's my next trial, i'll see what the next error will be....

Scott.

[Ollie]

DIY Auto Tune offers 36-1 trigger wheels 4", 6 3/4" and 8 1/4" for $25.00, $29.00 and 32.00 I dont think you could have one made for that unless you had connections.
With reguards to the 36-1 wheel I assume the missing tooth is positioned at TDC of #1 cyl compression?

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/t...eels-c-48.html

[TheMonkey]

Originally Posted by Ollie

With reguards to the 36-1 wheel I assume the missing tooth is positioned at TDC of #1 cyl compression?

not necessarily. if you use MS to decode the wheel, the missing tooth can be anywhere. software is pretty cool and very flexible. it can be trimmed with the software down to 1/10 of a degree from anywhere.

i set mine up to be just like EDIS where TDC is the 5th tooth past TDC.

[Karch]

I am on my laptop, as my desktop is down, but if you do a search you can find where I posted some pictures of the Ford EDIS wheel on a Pontiac (actually a Professional Products) damper. I bored out the ID to fit nicely over the hub, and made some spacers so the bolts (5/16" UNF) would help locate the wheel without moving so you can get repeatable installation.

The problem I see is that this arrangement would sandwich the wheel between the damper and the pulleys, but because the pulleys are larger diameter (mine are about 7"), the trigger wheel is almost an inch inside of that, so the VR sensor would have to be pretty narrow.

I do have an extra Ford wheel that I someday plan on throwing on epay.

-Karch (still waiting to buy my efi intake and ecu)

[Ollie]

Thanks Monkey,
Still building the MegaSquirt, havent got into the code yet. I'll thake it one step at a time. First get it running then I'll work on the ignition.

Karch,

I am using the Edelbrock Pontiac EFI manifold and building a MegaSquit ECU.

[Karch]

Originally Posted by Ollie

Thanks Monkey,
Still building the MegaSquirt, havent got into the code yet. I'll thake it one step at a time. First get it running then I'll work on the ignition.

Karch,

I am using the Edelbrock Pontiac EFI manifold and building a MegaSquit ECU.

Which Edelbrock? I plan on getting the Super Victor (based on the victor, not torker 2).

Also, wouldn't you rather build to MegaSquirts? They look better in pair on the assembly line

Which MS version? Options? I want WB, PWM fan control, and perhaps trans controller (I want a 6l80e).

[Ollie]

Originally Posted by Karch

Which Edelbrock? I plan on getting the Super Victor (based on the victor, not torker 2).

Also, wouldn't you rather build to MegaSquirts? They look better in pair on the assembly line

Which MS version? Options? I want WB, PWM fan control, and perhaps trans controller (I want a 6l80e).

I am using a Victor with an Acufab 1000 cfm throttle body.
the link in my post #45 to DIY Autotune, they have every thing you need for MegaSquirt. You wiil want the MS II V3.0 this will do every thing you want.

[Paul Westcott]

Originally Posted by TheMonkey

do you have any notes on what capacitors you put anywhere and which ones made the most improvement? i put a .01 mf 500v capacitor on my o2 sensor and it did nothing. i think capacitors will help with conducted RF but not radiated RF. my problem seems to be radiated RF. tonight i'll try separating the sensor heater ground from the sensor controller ground. that's my next trial, i'll see what the next error will be....
Scott.

Scott,
In discussing this with my partner in crime / electronic guru bro... Your O2 sensor isn't a likely RF noise source, since it is a very high impedance
circuit. If you're using an MSD or similar box -beware! -a major noise emitter! We used as much shielded wire as possible in the sensitive ignition input circuits, and kept the high power ignition (MSD) stuff as far away as possible from MS.

Capacitors can supress BOTH conducted and radiated RF. Here's my RF noise suppression list:

*I have a huge (50,000 mfd - 25volt) electrolytic can-type capacitor on the main 12volt supply to MS. This helps a lot with long leads from the
battery, such as trunk mount location, and stops noise from voltage spikes.
* Use a newer electronic, (not original mechanical) voltage regulator.
*We modded the inside of the Relay Module to help with suppression of the Flyback noise, using an internal L-C network.
*I have 1.0 or 2.0 mfd, 250 volt Mylar capacitors on the fuel pump, cooling fan relay and alternator. The fuel pump and its long power lead makes
lots of RF.
* To reduce noise in and out of the ECU, (alternator, ign, fuel pump) we installed a car stereo noise filter as well.

Sheeesh! ...After all that, my car runs pretty darn well!


Just for grins, I attached a couple of pics of the EDIS crank trigger as installed on the 426 Hemi project. (Granted, not a Pontiac!) Tom's MSII 3.0 controlled, EFI Hemi powered Mopar has been a Hot Rod Power Tour long hauler 2 years in a row. I think that says something about the reliability factor of Megasquirt and DIY EFI!!!

[TheMonkey]

Paul- thx for the list of RF antidotes.

what fuel pump are you using? after some testing, seems that my walbro 255lph does not make any noise at all. and, it's audibly quiet too.

the most powerful tool i own right now is my PC based scope. it's answering a lot of my questions. AM radio was a tool i already owned, and that's helping find problems.

Originally Posted by Paul Westcott

... Your O2 sensor isn't a likely RF noise source, since it is a very high impedance ...

i'm now certain it's the o2 sensor. last night, i hooked up ONLY my o2 sensor to the car battery, and even separated the ground from block so that it was truly standalone. check out this video.... power on the sensor and the AM radio throws a fit. the power lead to the sensor goes crazy, and it ran right by the VR sensor. the noise seen on the scope goes totally clean when the o2 sensor is removed.

i talked to innovate this morning, they said it sounds like a faulty unit and want me to send it in to be tested. in the meantime, i'll button things back up without the sensor and see if the misses go away.

Video: http://youtube.com/watch?v=k0FXdOOHYtM
Scope: http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3...batterywf1.png

[Paul Westcott]

Originally Posted by TheMonkey

what fuel pump are you using?

I actually have 2 in-line pumps running in parallel. One's a Holley, the other is an MSD of similar size. ~67 gph @ 100 psi. My TBI has a built-in pressure regulator set at 15 to 20 psi. I don't need the high pressure like multiport EFI, but I do need volume. Why 2 fuel pumps you might ask?
-I had zero issues with a single pump under all driving conditions except one ...W.O.T. at the drag strip. One pump couldn't keep up with 4 x 85lb./hr. injectors and 467 cubes! Presuure dropped and engine went flat half way down the track. Added a second pump = end of problem.

Originally Posted by TheMonkey

i'm now certain it's the o2 sensor.

Bad O2 sensor? Weird! I guess anything is possible. Too bad you don't have another one to compare with.

[Karch]

Anyone have updates they care to share? I realize it's an older thread, but for the guys here that have subscribed and are injecting, updates are appreciated

[Pontirag]

I have given alot of though to the trigger mechanism deal. since you/I/we usually dont use fuel pump on these applications, why not replace the fuel pump cam with a trigger sprocket and mount the sensor on the block off plate that blocks off the fuel pump flange. That way the pulley alignment nightmare does not rear its ugly head.

[Karch]

Originally Posted by Pontirag

I have given alot of though to the trigger mechanism deal. since you/I/we usually dont use fuel pump on these applications, why not replace the fuel pump cam with a trigger sprocket and mount the sensor on the block off plate that blocks off the fuel pump flange. That way the pulley alignment nightmare does not rear its ugly head.

I have thought about this one too. I can't see a problem with it, or you could use a sensor off the distributor.

These would be for sequential injection and the sort, or if you want to use a GM ECM.