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#1
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How does the composite distributor gear do without the drilled oil galley plug? Isn't that spray only really needed for the bronze gear? I am only concerned with a RACE application.
Thanks
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PHILLYGOAT 1965 GTO/ OEM Block, Crank & D-ports(all slightly modified of course)/ 3550lbs/ Full Exhaust/ Foot Braking 1.41 60ft [email protected] [email protected](Pontiac Heaven) ![]() More Details on GOAT http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=379 GTO Burnout http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZqdcH0Ltc4 |
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#2
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I have 3 of those gears and have not had any issues NOT drilling the plug at all. They still look brand new.
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1969 GTO, 5.77 @ 121 1/8th mile 3450 lbs...535 with Junk dinosaur Eheads Faster on nitrous… |
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#3
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x 2
No issues without holes drilled. |
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#4
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will they hold up under 900 lbs open pring pressure
hill461 |
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#5
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Hey Everybody,
No oil hole for solid rollers and the street? Thanks Again, Craig |
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#6
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I question the desire to NOT drill the hole. Why not? It isn't there for "race" engines OR bronze gears.
The distributor gear has been a "sore spot" ever since oil pressure rose to 60 lbs. in stockers ('66/'67 era). Ram AIr IV even had a "cad plated" gear for this problem. The Ram Air V and 455 SD engines had larger distributor and smaller cam gears to help this issue. As a "Pontiac" shop (we buiild any engine, just happen to LOVE the ol' Injun), EVERY Pontiac that goes out of here, stocker, pickup truck, restoration, 9 second racer, ALL get the "hole". I know of no "downside" to doing it. Why the "resistance"? Please explain the rationale. Jim |
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#7
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I don't know... maybe because never had an issue in that area... I have 3 of the composite gears in use and they all look brand new so there you go on that deal...
Never drilled one for a cast gear either, don't use a windage tray, run 9's, yada, yada...
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1969 GTO, 5.77 @ 121 1/8th mile 3450 lbs...535 with Junk dinosaur Eheads Faster on nitrous… |
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#8
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Why tear apart a perfectly good engine to drill the plug if it really isn't needed? I personally would like to have more oil pressure/volume. Even if I only gained one psi more for the bearings, as long as the distributor gear isn't going to need replacing every year of racing, I would rather NOT drill the hole. That seems reasonable doesn't it?
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PHILLYGOAT 1965 GTO/ OEM Block, Crank & D-ports(all slightly modified of course)/ 3550lbs/ Full Exhaust/ Foot Braking 1.41 60ft [email protected] [email protected](Pontiac Heaven) ![]() More Details on GOAT http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=379 GTO Burnout http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZqdcH0Ltc4 |
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#9
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I always drill mine.
I doubt you could even measure any drop in oil pressure with that tiny hole drilled in the plug. The pump would not now the difference. But I would not take a running engine apart to do it either. Once they made that gear the bronze ones became obsolete in my opinion. |
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#10
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I have a one of the ones i built with a hole drilled in the front oil galley for pressurized lube to the timing set not that its needed but it definately wont hurt
fwiw ive seen BOP gears chewed up before so why Not send pressurized oil to it? I have a Ton of drilled plugs if anyone needs one fwiw
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D.S.R.E. Your NW Pontiac Street/Strip Engine Builder, Specializing in Cylinder Head,Intake Manifold,and Exhaust Manifold Porting services and Building the Most Efficient stock rebuilds to Hi HP Pump Gas and Race Combinations for Pontiac,Buicks,Olds,FE Fords,385 Series and HP Gen 3 and 4 LS engines! 2006 silvy Z71 4X4,383 LS 600+hp NA Shared Toy-66 Lemans 470cid by me 537hp 580tq-manifolds, 570hp 590tq-2"headers,custom cam,rpm intake, mild e-heads, Looks stock ;-} |
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#11
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No drill ever. No problems. 2 years on BOP gear looks new at 70 psi. I did sand the drive on the new cam before I ran it though. Alot of oil flys around in there but I agree the hole wouldn't hurt. Rod
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#12
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If you look at the rear counterweight location. There is more then enough oil thrown from the crank to the distributor. I'm not a believer in created leaks in the oiling system to make things work. The Pontiac block has a screwed up oiling system anyway without making leaks more of an issue. Same deal on the front and drilling more holes and no timing gear issues. The idea of oil pressure and design it to supply oil to the bearinga and valvetrain wherethe load is the greatest. Other area require less oil and splash handles that purpose. They did it back in the day for bronze and they still wore. Other did it because they Thought they had an issue.
Those gears are used in other brands of engines I have built and no direct oiling either with no issues. |
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#13
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Split the difference in case you think you want it anyway.
Modify the distributor housing. No engine teardown involved. |
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#14
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And after looking at another thread. ..
I have known this for a long time , never thought about verbally voicing it. There are different bronze gears out there. They all look the same and even i originally thought they were probably all sourced from the same supplier....NO. Possibly the ones that have worn out really fast were of a lesser material??? HMMM.... |
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#15
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Quote:
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#16
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Mix, thats it.
Ampco 45 bronze alloy... or more or a little less or alot less of the other alloys that need to be in there. Ive seen some that wore very well and some that seemed to have lasted about 38 seconds and a bunch of in betweens. |
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#17
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LOL, Dude you want to see bad oiling system come check out my buick 455 builds, Pontiac deosn't have priority main oiling but its not really as bad as people say IMO
Creating more leaks??? there is leaks all over the place inside a running engine and 2 little .030 holes doesn't do hardly anything, i know when i added both plugs it goes from 75 to 72 psi, whoopedey doo. Wait till i add Piston Squirters to me new motor! Then we'll have some hemorrhaging!
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D.S.R.E. Your NW Pontiac Street/Strip Engine Builder, Specializing in Cylinder Head,Intake Manifold,and Exhaust Manifold Porting services and Building the Most Efficient stock rebuilds to Hi HP Pump Gas and Race Combinations for Pontiac,Buicks,Olds,FE Fords,385 Series and HP Gen 3 and 4 LS engines! 2006 silvy Z71 4X4,383 LS 600+hp NA Shared Toy-66 Lemans 470cid by me 537hp 580tq-manifolds, 570hp 590tq-2"headers,custom cam,rpm intake, mild e-heads, Looks stock ;-} |
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#18
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I build quite a few bick engines.
First thing I go is cut a groove around the backside of the #1 cam bearing to lube the drivers side lifter system. oil pump clearance in the cover, etc. Lot a mods to do to make them live............ or live better.
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#19
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It seems to me that using a bronze distributor gear is old technology that has been replaced with better materials. Using a bronze dist gear is like saying I have had great luck with drum brakes in the front, why go to disc.
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Tim Corcoran |
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#20
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OK Help. I've been running a Comp bronze gear for prolly about 5000 miles. Now I'm scheduled to go on the Hot Rod Power Tour and it will be right at 3,000 miles start to finish for me. Comp says not for "extended use". OK I checked it about a month ago and it looked brand new. Do I really need to scratch-up the ponies for one of the composite ones? I had one at the beginning of my build, but the cam bolt backed out and it ate the dist gear. I've got other areas that need money first if y'all think it will be safe to wait. This will call for extended hours of driving on the interstate. Thanks. David
BTW I change my oil like most guys change their shorts so that's not a problem.
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79 Pontiac Trans Am |
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