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Old 11-28-2017, 07:54 AM
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The repop is very usable

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Old 11-29-2017, 08:45 PM
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Any experience with one? What brand was it?

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Old 12-10-2017, 06:42 PM
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I spent some time out in the garage today with the 73. I used it as a the guinea pig for the 75.

I did some measuring on the inside of the air cleaner base and although the outside height is the same as a shaker air cleaner base, the inside height is not the same. The donor base does not have the "drop base" to sit low on the carb so the shaker will sit too high on this base and hit the hood if I try to use it.

So it looks like I will need to find an actual shaker base either a repro 70-72 or a 73 to 79? and add the two mounting tabs I got from Norwood.

Oh well...anybody got a used shaker base from a 73 to 79 sitting around in the attic?


Last edited by njsteve; 12-10-2017 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:10 PM
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I am sure Craig can help you with those needs. He's the shaker king bar none.

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Old 12-10-2017, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
I spent some time out in the garage today with the 73. I used it as a the guinea pig for the 75.

I did some measuring on the inside of the air cleaner base and although the outside height is the same as a shaker air cleaner base, the inside height is not the same. The donor base does not have the "drop base" to sit low on the carb so the shaker will sit too high on this base and hit the hood if I try to use it.

So it looks like I will need to find an actual shaker base either a repro 70-72 or a 73 to 79? and add the two mounting tabs I got from Norwood.

Oh well...anybody got a used shaker base from a 73 to 79 sitting around in the attic?
I think Steve this maybe my issue as well....I have not measured mine but it's a tight fit .....I should measure.....

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Old 12-10-2017, 10:25 PM
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It’s not a tight fit. It’s a no fit. If I would have tried to fully shut it, it would have broken the sides off the scoop.

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Old 12-11-2017, 09:51 AM
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If you're set on having original 73-79 base. This probably isn't the best asking place.

I have heard the 71-72 repop ones are dead on. Those are also harder to find without a 1 k price tag.

Have you asked Craig? He has a lot of shaker items in his stock. James (Blue 71TA) has a bunch of shaker stuff too.

Wouldn't be surprised you'll need more items as you go along. Functional shakers are a kit of parts for sure!

Sounds like a nice day trip to NH and Ames maybe a good option too...

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Last edited by Judge273; 12-11-2017 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:49 PM
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njsteve could u take some measuments of this base as I may be in the need as well perhaps.... ......thanks ....Chris

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Old 12-22-2017, 12:59 PM
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Looks like I need to keep looking for another baseplate. Though it was the right one, it is a bit too crusty to use once I de-rusted it. Lotsa little pin holes started peeking through the bottom. No big deal. I'll keep hunting.

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Old 01-22-2018, 02:40 PM
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I found another baseplate, a nice rust free one from another member here. It was from a late 70's T/A. I carefully removed the snorkel and then glassbeaded the entire baseplate. Painted it with satin black epoxy paint. I attached Norwood's shaker lid brackets to the outer rim with a couple screws and JB weld, after carefully measuring and marking with it should go. I also had to move the square breather element hole to clear the passenger side bracket which was in the exact same spot.

Here's how it came out. Now I need to find that pesky 70-75 steel shaker hood.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:55 PM
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Screws and JB Weld? Gram’s is going to come back and haunt you....

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Old 01-22-2018, 10:21 PM
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LOL. Actually two small bolts and nuts on each side. A dab of JB Weld was just for added assurance to keep the brackets from shifting. I don’t have access to a resistance welder and the metal is very thin. It actually worked out well for a Frankenstein air cleaner which is what this whole contraption is at this point.

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Old 01-24-2018, 08:50 PM
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https://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts...443642666.html

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Old 01-25-2018, 06:19 AM
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Love how people so often only lose interest after stripping panels to bare metal before leaving in the weather until they decide to sell.

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Old 01-25-2018, 05:19 PM
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You're right about that. Looking more like i should buy the repro hood. But the shipping is the real deal breaker on those. I wonder if AMES could deliver one to the PY show this year?

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Old 01-27-2018, 09:15 AM
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I'm sure they would - give them a call.

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Old 01-29-2018, 10:21 AM
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BTW - I stumbled upon my 71/2 TA air cleaner yesterday that's missing the two snorkels if you are interested in getting into a repair project. Shaker tabs are in place. Let me know.

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  #18  
Old 02-19-2018, 05:32 PM
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Thanks Boss. I figure since the car is not stock there is no sense in wasting a good original part that someone else can use, on it.

Look what I picked up today! Thanks to a tip by BentwheelBob who found it on Facebook, I just got back from North Jersey with this. It's a 1975 hood that was already stripped and primered (top and bottom). It is in really nice shape and was only 45 minutes away. It was half the price of the new repro hood and no shipping costs! Yay!
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
Thanks Boss. I figure since the car is not stock there is no sense in wasting a good original part that someone else can use, on it.

Look what I picked up today! Thanks to a tip by BentwheelBob who found it on Facebook, I just got back from North Jersey with this. It's a 1975 hood that was already stripped and primered (top and bottom). It is in really nice shape and was only 45 minutes away. It was half the price of the new repro hood and no shipping costs! Yay!
That fit right in the Diesel laying down?

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Old 02-19-2018, 06:28 PM
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Sort of. My 95 K2500 'Burb has rear air and heat so it is narrower behind the wheelwells due to the extra HVAC components.

Think of the game Tetris, only sideways and in 3D. You have to remove the spare tire and back seat and leave them home. Then you need a second person to tilt the hood at a 45 degree angle with the lower edge of the hood down as you guide it along the driver's side floor, and keyhole the entire panel inward while the second person inside angles it upward toward the front seats.

Then when you get home you have to try to remember how the heck you got it inside the truck in the first place. (Steel hoods are much easier...with a Formula hood the degree of difficulty goes up exponentially due to the fragility of the material).

:-)

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