[1funride]

I tell you, the chevy's I have owned in the past were much easier to get running. Cam, intake, exhaust...good to go. What about that approach, with a twist. Replace the rods and rod bolts with stronger stock spec units. Keep original pistons and a light hone and freshen up the rings. Use existing crank. Then use edelbrock d ports 72cc cnc ported. Replace cam with roller. Stay with 1.5 rockers. Or go over budget a bit and bore it and install some forged pistons as well, of course then you right there on the stroker kit.

D ports 2400 bucks
Rods and bolts 400 bucks
Rings
Roller cam 600 bucks
Still leaves 600 bucks for stuff in general.

Negatives would be the heads are no good for a stroker.
Not sure what it takes to install the roller, blocks changes?
Is it bad to keep stock pistons, are they a weak link? Is it possible.
What kind of power are people building with this combo?

I think it is crazy to have to spend 8000.00 to get a strong running Pontiac street engine.

[Engine-Ear]

First buy and read both Jim Hand's and Rocky Rotellas books.

If $4k was my limit, I would stick with iron heads, intake and probably LBHO manifolds. I would put $ into the rotating assembly (forged crank, rods and slugs), choose the right cam, converter (if going automatic), ignition and carb.

If it's a first-build, See if you can find an experienced builder who will help you put it together yourself.

[Bill Eveland]

That shortblock is a good deal, but he would lose alot of budget shipping from CA to NY.

Rods, cam , some really nice heads and a good converter could be done for 4k. converter.

[lust4speed]

Building on what Tom said in Post #4, it is necessary to replace known weak areas to let the engine live a long life. This requires replacing the stock rods, and the stock valves. Attached is a picture that was just sent to me a couple of days ago by one of our club members. He had his stock engine rebuilt with a standard valve job and new springs. In less than a thousand miles, the head of a stock two-piece valve broke off and took out the piston and punched a hole in the cylinder wall. Quality of the picture isn't good, but you can get the idea.

Don't sweat the 800 AVS carb, I'm running two of them (2+2 and Cruiser) and they have been the most trouble free carbs I've owned. With the 800 CFM flow and the adjustable air flap, the carb performs excellent.

I would say that Stobin's engine even with the shipping would be a good deal. Problem is that the flat top pistons require either 87cc aluminum heads or 100cc cast iron heads. I wouldn't consider the purchase unless I was going to replace the current heads.

Almost every piston manufacturer now produce a "D" shaped piston dish which retains the quench area, so there is no down side to lowering compression with the pistons.

What I have seen in our area, is $4,000 will almost cover a standard stroker kit, machine work, and cast iron head work to include valves, springs, hardened seats, and cutting the guides for Viton seals. Adding aluminum heads would add another $1,200+ to the price. And this is if you do all your own assembly and don't pay someone to bolt it all together.

[1funride]

Thanks for all the help. I do have Jim Hand's book and read it through and through years ago. Since then, many new low cost parts are available, these option I think make it harder to pick a direction for a build. With these Pontiacs being low rpm engines, you need big cubes, this again makes it difficult with the high compression heads.

Here is what caught my eye. Chiphead...build a strong 400 for about 5K, based on a solid bottom end and modern E heads. I would stay with the stock crank. lust4speed.....build a solid stroker with iron heads and dished pistons. I would assemble it myself, and would give the simple port job a go as per Jim's book. It seems that all agree the rods and bolts need to go. I agree, and think about each time I push my engine to 5K, which is everytime I drive it.

I would definately stay with my existing performer manifold, seen many an article that indicate it really is not far off from the rpm, and in some cases does better. That would be a cheap upgrade later anyhow. I would stick with the Edel 800 AVS, that is a good carb, those that think not have not spent a few minutes with it. The exhaust would need to stay the same, Dougs headers, with the 2.5" flowmaster. Converter, would love a Continental, but will settle for a Hughs. The entire drivetrain was redone last year and can handle the power. My existing ignition system is fine. Will need to beef up the fuel and cooling though. Got a few of those parts laying around, cooling is more difficult.

Now which direction to go:
Strong 400 like Chiphead indicated, based on E Heads and FT cam?
Strong stroker like Lust4speed indicated, exisitng heads, dished pistons, light head clean up by me and Hand's book, with a HFT cam?

Either engine will be durable, and fun to drive. I will have to do some more DD simulation to compare the curves and my intended street (and ocassion track) power curves.

[aktattoo]

did you get a hold of mr bush in jamestown? he may have some things like heads around he used to race ponitacs...

[1funride]

Not yet, I will give him a ring. Thanks for the information.

[68GTOSCA]

Find another 4000 dollars and build the motor you want

[mchell]

not sure it this was mentioned or not.....whatever you think the cost will be, double it........you can piddle 4 grand away on a pontiac... EASY

if your bottom end is sound.....throw some alluminum heads on it...cam to match.....bye bye 4 g's....thats doing ALL the work yourself...

[ta man]

Originally Posted by mchell

not sure it this was mentioned or not.....whatever you think the cost will be, double it........you can piddle 4 grand away on a pontiac... EASY

if your bottom end is sound.....throw some alluminum heads on it...cam to match.....bye bye 4 g's....thats doing ALL the work yourself...

X2If you have the funds..go for it!