[jimmo]

I took a bunch of pics and measurements. The job would actually be pretty easy to duplicate if you have someone that can bore the crank pulley. It only needs to be opened up about .090".
Is it possible to write it up in a word document with pics and import it here or will I be limited because of file size?
Here is a link to a short vid of it running, I totally forgot about keeping the clutch fan vertical when not installed and now its locked up thats the reason for all the wind noise in the vid.
http://contour.com/stories/serp-test

and here is one of the possible routing with AC. I'll probably hold off on that job till next winter.
http://contour.com/stories/possible-config-with-ac

Can anyone tell me if my fan will be OK if it sits a while or do I now need a new one?

[ponjohn]

I think you can post docs online through google docs...not positive.

[Ollie]

You can post the photos here. Use the go advanced tab at the bottom of this page. Open the go advanced tab. there is a window to post a message. Just below the message window there is another tab labeled Manage Attachments. Click that tab, another window will open
Labled Manage attachments. with a browse button open that button. this will take you to your computer find the file with the photos to up load. Select the photos you want to upload and select open the browser window will open select upload the photos will be attache to the message.
The test and tune forum is available to test your photo posting skills there are also sticky instructions to help.

[JC455]

Clutch fan vertical? That's a new one to me... while sitting on store shelves, they are stored in boxes that are horizontal, vertical, upside down, tilted, etc.
Maybe it just went bad.

[FrankieT/A]

Looks great! I've wanting to do that for long time.

[jimmo]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

Looks great! I've wanting to do that for long time.

Thanx man! Do it up! or wait a bit to see if mine holds up

[JC455]

Jimmo,
On your A/C setup, is it possible to put the idler on the top side- between the A/C and W/P? It looks like the wrap around for the W/P would be greatly improved (if I'm seeing it correctly).
Any pix of the finished brackets/spacers/etc. laid out for display?
Thanks!

[jimmo]

In this pic is everything you need for the conversion:
Crankshaft pulley-1990 F-150.......junkyard
Water Pump pulley- 1985 Crown Victoria........junkyard
Power steering pulley- Mid 80,s Chevy truck........junkyard
Alternator Pulley- 1998 VW jetta 2.0..............junkyard
Power steering spacer plate- This has to be made from 5/8” flat stock. I chose 6061 aluminum as it is easy to work with........................can be purchased from speedymetals.com
Alt bracket spacer- 3/8” ID x 3/4” OD x 5/8” length …....can be purchased from aluminumspacers.com
Alt bracket spacer- 5/16” ID x 3/4” OD x 5/8” length.....can be purchased from aluminumspacers.com
Idler Pulley- I got mine from a subaru that just happened to be easily accessible. I made a spacer and found a suitable bolt. One can use any idler they choose as long as its spaced and fastened properly. If you choose one with a larger diameter you will need to locate it a little further from the power steering pulley than I did in my install.

Fasteners needed:
3/8”x16x6-5/8” bolt
3/8”x16x4-1/2” bolt
3/8”x16x1-5/8” bolt.........not in the photo
5/16”x18x2” bolt

Much more to follow...

[jimmo]

The water pump pulley is 17-3/8” in circumference and is 1-3/4 from the nose to the back. It just needs 4 new holes drilled to match the Pontiac pattern. The center bore is the same at 5/8”. I used a 5/8” bolt to bolt them together and used the Pontiac pulley as a drill guide. Just be careful not to damage the Pontiac pulley if you have future plans for it.


More to follow...

[jimmo]

The crankshaft pulley measures 20-1/2” in circumference and 2-7/16 from mounting surface to front. It needs the center bore opened up from the existing 2.380” to the Pontiac 2.465” which is on the tight side. My stock V pulley actually measured 2.472” but I like a snug fit. Next, the four holes will need to be drilled to bolt onto the Pontiac balancer. I happened to have a large socket that fit the bore nicely to align the two pulleys and used the Pontiac one as a guide.


More to follow...

[jimmo]

The power steering pulley needs nothing. It is 19-15/16” in circumference and has an offset of 3/4” from the nose to front rim(see pic). When pressing it on, do not bottom it out. It needs to be about .040” from flush with the shaft for proper alignment. Start off by leaving it 1/8” over and then slowly work it on until alignment is achieved.

More to follow....

[Afdrews]

Originally Posted by jimmo

In this pic is everything you need for the conversion:
Crankshaft pulley-1990 F-150.......junkyard
Water Pump pulley- 1985 Crown Victoria........junkyard
Power steering pulley- Mid 80,s Chevy truck........junkyard
Alternator Pulley- 1998 VW jetta 2.0..............junkyard
Power steering spacer plate- This has to be made from 5/8” flat stock. I chose 6061 aluminum as it is easy to work with........................can be purchased from speedymetals.com
Alt bracket spacer- 3/8” ID x 3/4” OD x 5/8” length …....can be purchased from aluminumspacers.com
Alt bracket spacer- 5/16” ID x 3/4” OD x 5/8” length.....can be purchased from aluminumspacers.com
Idler Pulley- I got mine from a subaru that just happened to be easily accessible. I made a spacer and found a suitable bolt. One can use any idler they choose as long as its spaced and fastened properly. If you choose one with a larger diameter you will need to locate it a little further from the power steering pulley than I did in my install.

Fasteners needed:
3/8”x16x6-5/8” bolt
3/8”x16x4-1/2” bolt
3/8”x16x1-5/8” bolt.........not in the photo
5/16”x18x2” bolt

Much more to follow...

Is this the updated list? Listed is a 1985 Crown vic. Could you mean 95?

[jimmo]

Originally Posted by JC455

Jimmo,
On your A/C setup, is it possible to put the idler on the top side- between the A/C and W/P? It looks like the wrap around for the W/P would be greatly improved (if I'm seeing it correctly).
Any pix of the finished brackets/spacers/etc. laid out for display?
Thanks!

Yea, after watchin the vid It does look like there is room for it there. In person I dont remember there being so much room. Ill have to check it out closer. I did relocate the idler to the lower right side of the water pump pulley for more contact. Dont know if it will be enough though. My goals are to keep it simple to work on and easy to get to the water pump. I was also thinking about putting a reverse rotation water pump on it but I hesitate about doing stuff like that. It just makes buying replacement parts a pita.

[russosborne]

Are the pictures from today with the idler pulley relocated?

You are making it really hard for me to concentrate on replacing floor panels like I need to instead of working on the belt system.

It is really good of you to post all this stuff.

Russ

[jimmo]

Originally Posted by russosborne

Are the pictures from today with the idler pulley relocated?

You are making it really hard for me to concentrate on replacing floor panels like I need to instead of working on the belt system.

It is really good of you to post all this stuff.

Russ

No, in post # 63 I posted a short video of a mock up using an orange tie down in place of a belt just to show a possible routing. This vid shows the idler down between the water pump and crank but it was only for the mock up. My idler is is exactly where the pics depict.

[russosborne]

Maybe a dumb idea, but for those of us without access to someone able to bore out the crank pulley, would it be possible to bolt the old and new pulleys together (back to back) after drilling out the four new mounting holes, and use something like a dremel or something (die grinder? not sure of the name) to open up the new pulley's center opening to match the original?

Thanks,
Russ

[jimmo]

Originally Posted by russosborne

Maybe a dumb idea, but for those of us without access to someone able to bore out the crank pulley, would it be possible to bolt the old and new pulleys together (back to back) after drilling out the four new mounting holes, and use something like a dremel or something (die grinder? not sure of the name) to open up the new pulley's center opening to match the original?

Thanks,
Russ

If ya scroll down on this thread, this guy claims to have done it with a dremel. If I didnt have a machine I probably would try it. My advice is to buy the pulleys cheap in the junkyard so if you waste one or two its no big deal.

http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=171888

[Ollie]

Originally Posted by jimmo

If ya scroll down on this thread, this guy claims to have done it with a dremel. If I didnt have a machine I probably would try it. My advice is to buy the pulleys cheap in the junkyard so if you waste one or two its no big deal.

http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=171888

The only problem I see with that set up with out a belt tension pulley, is the belt contact on the water pump and alternator

[russosborne]

Originally Posted by jimmo

If ya scroll down on this thread, this guy claims to have done it with a dremel. If I didnt have a machine I probably would try it. My advice is to buy the pulleys cheap in the junkyard so if you waste one or two its no big deal.

http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=171888

That's funny. That was one of the online setups I found in the past. I was thinking about doing it his way until you posted your setup. Yours is much better.

Thanks,
Russ

[jimmo]

Thanks guys!
Yea, there isnt much detail on the system without the idler. I am curious as to how he used a gm alternator pulley. I can only assume that his alternator has a longer shaft because in order to line it up on my system there were no threads showing to install the alternator nut. Thats why I had to go with the VW one. As you can see in the pics it has a built in offset and I still needed a lil spacing.
He claims he's run it for a couple years with no noise or issues so that is pretty reassuring.