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#1
11-11-2012, 06:47 PM
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Got the engine out today.
Here it is at 9:30 AM  And around 2:00 PM   Got the M22 off and you can see it is engine oil leaking as the front seal is nice and clean.  You can see the oil sling pattern from the rear main seal leakage: 
Last edited by njsteve; 11-11-2012 at 06:55 PM. |
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#2
11-11-2012, 06:54 PM
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Gee, one of these things is not like the other:
 I was very careful not to disturb the oily mess back here so I could get a good forensic view of where it's leaking from. Doesn't look like the oil galley plugs were the problem as they were tight and the ripples in the oily mess above and below the plug area are the same.  And here we are at 4:30 PM   That's all for today. Tomorrow I will open her up to see what's inside. Last edited by njsteve; 11-11-2012 at 07:01 PM. |
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#3
11-14-2012, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Does anyone notice what else is wrong in this photo??? |
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#4
11-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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Clutch fork boot installed inside out?
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#5
11-14-2012, 03:03 PM
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Well played, Sir!
You win the old boot. |
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#6
11-11-2012, 07:35 PM
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Looks a little cleaner than mine. Trade
__________________
1972 HO Trans Am auto White/white 1974 SD Trans Am 4 spd, no a/c dk blue/ white & blue 1978 Trans am gold/ black ,T56, t tops, EFI 474, Build: http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...1978+g+machine 1999 30th Trans Am 6 spd, T top |
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#7
11-12-2012, 12:30 AM
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Ring gear ok?
__________________
" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#8
11-12-2012, 07:58 AM
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Good catch. I'll take a look this morning.
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#9
11-12-2012, 01:01 PM
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I rechecked the flywheel. All the teeth are intact. Must have been an optical illusion.
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#10
11-12-2012, 01:04 PM
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Tore down the engine this morning. Found some very interesting stuff.
We'll start from the top: Original 7F6 heads with the factory oil deflectors and the cast scallops between the intake runners.  
Last edited by njsteve; 11-12-2012 at 01:59 PM. |
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#11
11-12-2012, 01:09 PM
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And the real surprise: domed TRW L2394N pistons. That explains the 230 psi compression test results and the detonation on anything less than racing fuel. So what do we have: 10.5 to 1 ratio with the 111cc 7F6 heads?
    In googling the part number I found this: "L2394NF .030 TRW pistons for Pontiac 455, ) .476 dome aluminum forged for high compression. Unmachined Compression Ratios: 89cc = 12.54:1 96cc = 11.83:1 111cc = 10.25:1 114cc = 9.98:1 These pistons are generally used for racing applications, and may require machining for proper fit and clearance of smaller chamber heads." Last edited by njsteve; 11-12-2012 at 01:58 PM. |
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#12
11-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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I had that same Crane cam in a fairly stock, low compression 400. Was a nice street cam for that engine but would seem fairly mild for a high compression 455. What are your plans on the cam and pistons, compression?
__________________
'72 Formula 455HO TH400, Revere Silver, black deluxe '74 Trans Am SD 4 speed, Admiralty Blue, blue deluxe |
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#13
11-12-2012, 02:13 PM
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I will be using the 068 reproduction cam from Melling. I need to figure out how to either lower the compression with these domed pistons or sell them and get some stock compression pistons. This thing was rattling on everything but 100 octane avgas (even with the timing dialed way back).
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#14
11-12-2012, 02:38 PM
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I'd want to CC the chambers on at least one cylinder per head before dedciding on a plan. Another thing about the TRW's is they are pretty heavy compared to most any other forged piston so I'd be tempted to sell them to someone building a race engine and getting new forged. It would be nice to see what those domes end up weighing without the rods.
__________________
'72 Formula 455HO TH400, Revere Silver, black deluxe '74 Trans Am SD 4 speed, Admiralty Blue, blue deluxe |
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#15
11-12-2012, 02:54 PM
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The rods look to be a stock cast piece with the side beam polished to remove the parting line, and then followed up by shot peening. Unless it's the lighting, the wrist pin end is awful blue!
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#16
11-12-2012, 03:30 PM
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I was just out in the garage looking at old parts and had a stock set of rods to compare with the rods I just pulled from the engine. They had the same remnant of the casting # at the big end confirming my suspicion of the stock cast rod.
And yes they are awful blue. Looks like it rod and piston time. 
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#17
11-12-2012, 03:32 PM
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Heres' the underside of the heads:
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#18
11-12-2012, 03:34 PM
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And the empty block and crank:
 
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#19
11-12-2012, 07:08 PM
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I agree on checking the CC at least one cyl, on a head.
If you are not gonna rev and race those stock rods will be fine, they survived the 10.5+ CR to 1 A "good" set of Rods will be 400 bucks.' any cheap ones need serious resizing work and balancing. In fact if machined in asia, the holes are water jet "punch through" and are not same diameter on both sides of the rod ( ask me know I know UGH) As a Mopar owner, Im sure you have the scoop on KB forged pistons. I like em, use the KB rings and special gap. These will put you right where you want to be if heads are stock
__________________
" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#20
12-10-2012, 04:29 PM
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72 Bottom End
Steve,
Did you reinstall the windage tray? Or does it not need one with baffled pan? Did one come orginal on the car? Nice work! thanks Brad
__________________
Brad Pringle Wellston, Michigan 1973 SD 455 TA Auto 1974 SD455 TA 4 Spd |
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