[Trans-Formula II]

I would like to see how to remove the cylinder from the ign switch without the key, it is long gone. Any help?

[Sirrotica]

It really depends on what your working on, column, dash mounted, year?
It all makes a difference.

[Trans-Formula II]

Oh, duh! Sorry, its a 68 w/ switch in dash, I have it out though.

[marxjunk]

lock smith...


or, you can drill it out, but if ya slip, and the drill wanders your are SOL you just killed the switch


I have a buddy with a lock smith set...its like long rods with key blanks on the end, there are like 40 rods and 80 key combos..he does it for me..but the other option is a lock smith....but they are nuts around here..50 bux to pull a cylinder out....

[xgoater]

Hey Dave,

I'm trying to do the same thing - get my tumbler out without a key. I went to a good locksmith and (surprisingly) they couldn't do it. They would drill it out for $25, but wouldn't guarantee anything. Hmmmmmmmmm.

So how did you end up getting yours out?


Terry

[marxjunk]

i never throw keys away..never...i actually buy jars/cans of keys at swapmeets and junk yards..i keep them..and have been lucky 3 out of 5 times and had a key that works...i always go to the keys that are so worn they dont look like they will work and they get it done the most...

[xgoater]

We have a key bucket too. I went through a coffee can full - no luck.

I even went to a friend of the family who has a towing business. I went through about 10 full cans and boxes of keys. No luck.

I know there's a key out there somewhere that would work, but I've about exhausted all of my local options.

Exactly how does one go about drilling one of these out? I might as well give it a shot at this point.

[marxjunk]

its on the web,,,,,nnnooooo wait its in the 68 factory manual, i found it in there last year...i just dont remember which...i havent seen it in a while its the BROWN one...i will look...

i found it and tried it and it didnt work for me..let me see if i can find it before ya just drill...

[marxjunk]

cant find it...its the brown factory manual its says 68 and is brown with some tools on the front....it has step by step directions, and tools needed...

i think i use a 3/8 drill...but part of me wants to say 5/8...and you turn the drill down, and drill right in the slot..the idea it destroys the tumblers and the cylinder comes out...didnt work for me...and i was afraid to try it on another switch because they are so hard to get around here...

i bet its on the web, because i've seen it in other manuals for 67-8 chevelles..etc...

[azkeebler]

The correct way to drill to reuse the lock is to drill 1/8 inch hole less than a 1/4 deep, about 3/8 back from tip on the left side of the switch housing enough to depress the sidebar as you pick it. Then turn the cylinder to the left to accessory, poke the pin through the hole until the cylinder turns more counter-clockwise and comes out of the switch housing.

Then, the cylinder can be read from the depths of the wafers and a key made.

Unfortunately, I do not have an example on hand.

Any real locksmith should know how to do this.

Drilling through the face of the lock is destructive and isn't always successful. To do this, you drill dead center just to the left of the key hole about 1 to 1-1/2 deep . Then you will still need to dig out the side bar and wiggle/jiggle and pray it turns. Obviously, this destroys the cylinder. The problem with destroying the original, the aftermarket cylinders have a tendency to not lock due to loose tolerances.

[marxjunk]

the big deal is, if you try to drill the cylinder and your off or go deep, you ruin the switch...i did it...its like throwing a 100 bux in the trash

[azkeebler]

If you drill the side of the ignition like I suggest in my first paragraph of my post, you are unlikely to damage anything unless you are careless.

I am still shocked to hear that the locksmith xgoater went to claimed they couldn't do it. I guess real locksmithing is a lost art.

I am more then happy to remove cylinder for any member here, if you pay shipping it to and from me (95336). I don't have a supplier of blanks any longer as this is no longer my career, but I can order from ebay if needed to make keys for you.

[xgoater]

azkeebler - Yes, I was very surprised my local locksmith couldn't do it. And they are an old established shop. Very perplexing.

I may take you up on your offer, but first I may try this:

Take your key blank and a blue or red permanent marker and color both sides. Carefully slide it in the keyhole and turn it until you feel the resistance from the tumblers. Remove the key and file the contact area away. Repeat the process until you have made your new key. A set of jewelers or hobby files works great for this, and a small vise to hold the key

Do you know if this will work or is it just an old fairy tale? I have the time and patience if this method does work, but I don't want to waste any time if it doesn't work.

Terry

[marxjunk]

it works, thats how the guy in St Louis used to do keys for me 15 years ago..but it takes experience and talent...

[azkeebler]

Originally Posted by xgoater

azkeebler - Yes, I was very surprised my local locksmith couldn't do it. And they are an old established shop. Very perplexing.

I may take you up on your offer, but first I may try this:

Take your key blank and a blue or red permanent marker and color both sides. Carefully slide it in the keyhole and turn it until you feel the resistance from the tumblers. Remove the key and file the contact area away. Repeat the process until you have made your new key. A set of jewelers or hobby files works great for this, and a small vise to hold the key

Do you know if this will work or is it just an old fairy tale? I have the time and patience if this method does work, but I don't want to waste any time if it doesn't work.

Terry

This is what they call impressioning. It is very effective on standard wafer and pin locks.Older Fords and dodge and any import can easily be made this way.GM sidebar style, such as your GM ignition is a different design and takes a very talented locksmith to do as the imprints are not nearly as defining as a standard wafer. The sidebar is a bar that spreads across all the wafers equally versus working one wafer at a time. I've only been successful once or twice on Gm sidebar locks with this technique, where as it is much faster and accurate the way I propose.

[Trans-Formula II]

I wound up taking a chance and drilling out the cylinder and I am suprised how easy it was.

[68pongto]

I have a box of GM keys from our body shop and have never had a problem finding one of them that will work. I have to wiggle and jiggle to turn it back on ACC but I've always found one. Once the cylinder is out you can get a key cut off the code if you want.

[69Customs]

I take it there is a key code on cylinder that if you ever take the cylinder out you should write it down to get keys made in the future?
Do all the factory cylinders carry this code like doors, trunk, glove box?
Just curious

[Trans-Formula II]

I wish I kept all the spares over the years, Id have a can full, live and learn I guess.