[hootsk]

Ignorance is not always bliss.

Every time the driver's side front wheel goes over a bump, there's a whack to the bottom of the car. There's a very, very short delay before the noise comes after the tire hits the bump, like it's not the wheel itself, but something connected to the wheel. I'm guessing that section of black paint on the rod that's exposed means this is recent movement. Is that the ... anti-sway bar? Bushing? Where's the best source to get new rubber or hardware for it ... and what do I ask for?

Thanks in advance.

Chuck

[Peter Serio]

The part you need looks like this. I don't think any year but 1963 used it. It holds the link attached to the strut rod.

[mechanickeith]

GM part # 531959, Insulator, front stabilizer shaft to strut

[elefantrider]

Those are some helpful pics and illustrations. Looks like the type I also have on my '62.

Anyone know diameter of the anti-sway bar and if they are the same size in 62-63?
Shop manual doesn't list size. Looking to source sway bar frame-insulators in polyurethane for a little less deflection.

[hootsk]

Brilliant. Thanks to both you guys.

The insulator on the other side doesn't look much better, so I'll replace both while I'm at it. Where should I call for # 531959? GMPartsDirect.com doesn't list it.

Polyurethane might be a good choice considering the application?

Chuck

[Pete Gossett]

If you haven't checked it, you may also want to look at the actual sway bar bushing where it mounts to the unibody rails. The spacer(basically a 1'-square piece of steel tubing)was missing from the driver's side on my 62, and it made a noise much like you described.

[hootsk]

Thanks Pete, the steel bracket is there on both rails, but neither are too solid. The rubber bushings have deteriorated and the bar is loose. There's more than enough force on it to make it hit the rails.

Pretty much all of the rubber and paper, in other words bushings and gaskets, on the car is marginal. I figure that's to be expected, sitting out in the Kansas heat and cold for 30 years. But none of it has been too difficult to replace, which is what my co-pilot and I have been doing for 2,000 miles on this trip. Now I just need to source some new bushings for the anti-sway bar.

Chuck

[Peter Serio]

Hi Chuck, I don't know if that end link part is available new anywhere. I would check with Kantners first. The way the ends of the sway bar bolt to the strut rod like that seems like kind-of a rig job to begin with. The bar is pretty thin, maybe 11/16" in dia., max.

[mechanickeith]

Parts manual say's 5/8"

[hootsk]

There may be more trouble than just the sway bar. Thanks to azkeebler for suggesting taking a look at the ball joints. When you grab the top of the driver's side front tire with both hands and pull and push out, the wheel rocks side to side slightly. I assume it's supposed to be solid? Is this unsafe to drive? The passenger side doesn't have as much play, but the rubber looks just as bad.

Every joint got new grease back in Kansas.

Rare Parts in Stockton, Calif. has new ball joints for a total of $308. The same Kanter parts are $228. Kanter will sell you a whole kit to replace all the ball joints and bushings on the front end except for the sway bar for $457. However, based on my own experience with Kanter, the Rare Parts might be better quality. Any advice or what don't I know?

Chuck

[hootsk]

Elefantrider, Kanter has both 5/8" and 11/16" (and plenty of other sizes) polyurethane anti-sway bar bushings for $28.

http://tinyurl.com/polyswaybarbushings

I haven't found the end pieces yet, but that's a start.

Chuck

[elefantrider]

Good find there. Looks similar. Hope the subframe bolt holes will line up on those.

[elefantrider]

Had a look today. The Kanter bushings will probably fit, just would need to use the stock bracket which is taller than the Kanter one.

Not sure where to find the end pieces.

[62 tempest nashville]

I just i found this post,,, and its the last part i need.
Has anyone found the source for these bushing yet ??

[Doug]

Originally Posted by hootsk

Elefantrider, Kanter has both 5/8" and 11/16" (and plenty of other sizes) polyurethane anti-sway bar bushings for $28.

http://tinyurl.com/polyswaybarbushings

I haven't found the end pieces yet, but that's a start.

Chuck

As to the "rubber" part of the frame mount bushing, your local parts store will probably have something in their bushing fits which you can take out the "rubber" from and use on your car. Their price for their bushing kit will probably be cheaper than from Kanter. (I seem to recall that I once looked at a "red" polyurethane kit for a Chevrolet at Advance Auto that the bushing itself would work in the Tempest bracket.)

Also, there are thousands of the "rubber" part of these bushings for sale on E-bay for a lot cheaper price.

After a prolonged effort of scrounging up new front suspension parts for my 63, I finally went with the standard rebuild kit from Kanter for about $425. It did not have sway bar bushings in it(neither the "strap" rubber nor the frame-mount rubber). Also, the strut rod bushings are not "donut" shaped the same as originals.

As to ball joints, I seem to recall a few years ago buying some top joints straight out of a parts catalog at Advance (might have been NAPA) at a price that was a lot lower than Kanter sold them for individually.

When I was looking for stuff I talked with Kanter, PST and others and, although they didn't say so, my impression is that they all get their ball joints, etc from RARE PARTS. When I talked with RARE PARTS, they basically told me they sold wholesale and not retail. I talked with them about "rebuilding" a 63 Pitman arm and I seem to recall they needed about $300 to do one and you have to furnish a core (which they said at that time were virtually unavailable).

If you are going to keep the car, I suggest you get a Kanter/PST kit. If you are just trying to keep it going, I have a couple or so "used" ball joints which you can have for the mailing. They seem to be "tight" but need the rubber cups which you can get at parts stores.

As to tie rod ends, because of the grease fittings, they are uniquely left side and right side pieces. Accordingly, they are costly on an individual basis from Kanter, PST, etc. I believe that it is possible that you can find ends from other model cars that could be made to work on Tempests. I've seen pictures of some Ford pieces that look very similar and are priced much less than Kanter, etc.

My guess is that your "noise" is caused by worn control arm bushings which are parts that you virtually cannot get other than from Kanter, PST, etc.

Keep us posted!

[beemergary]

The last upper ball joint from Vintage Auto Parts two years ago was $20.00. Those donut style rubber bushings that go on the rod to the lower A arms can be made from Jeep body bushing material. I may have those bushing (if there good) when I removed my front stabilizer bar years ago. Northwest auto parts in Grand Rapids Mi. may have some parts.

[Chiefkey]

If anyone has a nos piece or an original example in very good shape, I'm sure it can be used to make a mold to reproduce more. Right now, my focus is on finding nos or very good condition Rear Crossmember to Body upper and lower insulators to use for making copies. If you're doing a "body off" or just have to take out the rear transaxle for work, you really need to replace these parts as they are generally all dried out, cracked, and
mishapened from age. Will post photo's soon of items/part numbers needed.
JK

[beemergary]

I may have what your looking for. Removed a crossmember and the rubbers are good and can even read the part numbers. I am only a less than a hr. north of you. Just north of Lapeer.

[Chiefkey]

Beemergary....send me an email at [email protected]. let's see where were at on this problem.
Thanks,
Jeff Key