[pfilean]

Just a quick check guys. Does anyone have knowledge of a good easy cleanup of exhaust manifolds? My engine is out for a little winter cleanup and fact finding. Will repaint it and would like the old rusty stock exhaust manifolds to look appropriate. I've tried a lot of stuff over the years. Starting with the high temp aluminum that was supposed to work. Not! I've tried other things over the years and nothing seems to do what the can says. Good to 1200 seems to be a myth. I've seen the things in Eastwood catalogs and may have even used some of them under a different name. Anyone know of something the does work short of sending them off to Jet-Hot?

[1969GTO]

I am in the same boat as you with the manifolds.
I have a set of RAM AIR manifolds and I got a price from Ram Air Restorations to ceramic coat inside and out for $199.00.

Did you get a price from Jet Hot?

[hpp]

I just did mine with Por-15 manifold grey.

I bought it from Eastwood co. come's in a qt can and I used a foam brush,dries very nice and looks pretty good.

My manifold was also sandblasted prior.

[Stuart]

I used the high temp stainless steel paint from Eastwood on mine, after getting them sandblasted. They're showing some surface rust now but the stuff held up quite well for a number of years, and to my eye the paint looks very close to raw cast iron. http://www.eastwood.com/stainless-st...ating-kit.html

[rexs73gto]

I used the alum paint from eastwood & then sprayed a light coat of the stainless paint from eastwood & it looks very close to what the natural look of the manifold should be.

[pfilean]

69GTO
I hadn't asked for a Jet-Hot price. But I think your price is about what I expected. I was hoping for something that would cost less (I'm a cheap do-it-yourselfer) and still hold up under use. I have a driver but like it to look nice. Maybe the Eastwood stuff is still as good as it gets on the cheap.

[geeteeohguy]

I did mine about 2 years ago and they still look great after about 5000 miles of use. I sandblasted them, and painted them with a dark grey cast iron stove paint I got from the Hardware store. Cost less than $10.

[hpp]

http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-facto...6-oz-pint.html

[U47]

You can also do VHT, but remember what it says on the can. Clean and etch, then VHT primer first, then baked at 600 degrees for I can't remember how long, then coats of VHT paint, all coats in the oven at 600 degrees allowed a certain amount of baking and curing time between coats. They say never use the engine to try to cure VHT primer and paint, but they must be baked to cure properly.
Now try getting the wife's permission. Fortunately I did mine in our old oven that I had pulled out for a remodel on the kitchen.
Just a FYI, Keep those old washing machines for your polishing towels, buffing pads....They use twice the amount of water as the new ones, but they clean better and they rinse much much better. You won't dry off your car and leave soap streaks from a towel that has soap left over like new energy efficient ones do and if you have a garden with high acid PH just hook a long hose up to the washer and water the plants with the gray water. The old ovens are perfect for curing paint, baking heads that use silicone bronze valve guides...Heat the head to 600, grab the guides out of the old freezer and you can put them in the head without a press or any pounding just push them in with your finger. Do the same installing wheel bearing races. Build a shed next to the garage to keep these old and better performing appliances to keep them dry and your good to go.

[Old Goat 67]

Did mine with POR 15 after blasting them 3 times before they quit showing rust accumulation. Never smoked when doing the heat cycle thing. Still look great.

8 oz size is all you need.

http://www.por15.com/FACTORY-MANIFOL...ductinfo/FMGH/

[Greg Reid]

I did mine with that regular over-the-counter 1700 degree paint and it's holding up very nicely. As stated above, the trick is that you have to follow the small print on the label. I baked mine in an industrial oven for 3 or 4 hours.
If you can do that, if you have access... it actually works very well. Just like Charles, mine never even smoked when I ran them.

[pfilean]

Thanks guys. Maybe I'll try the POR15. Don't think I tried their's before. Actually I don't think they offered anything the last time I was doing this. I can blast before and if necessary ust the old barbe

[My442]

Painting is cheaper, and well hold up reasonably well for a few years.

I had my manifolds coated by HPC about 10 years ago - they look exactly the same as the day I installed them.

[Old Goat 67]

S this by b-man.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ld#post4540157

[hpp]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

S this by b-man.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ld#post4540157

Great to see that!

[Old Goat 67]

Sorry about the "S". My EEEE's ain't working right on this keyboard and I didn't check spelling.

[Old Goat 67]

Used Eastwood's stuff before and wasn't pleased. Burned off and rusted again with a little time, This stuff is holding up VERY well.

[Jeff Hamlin]

VHT SP998 Flameproof Very High Temperature Coating Cast Iron.

Did the intake & exhaust on my 66' OHC which get real damn hot,
I did them several miles/years back and overall holding up great.
Fuel seepage & oil spillage have not really affected it.

Of course they were blasted clean and coated off the car as with anything prep is key.

[theamcguy]

Here is an article on an interesting alternative to paint. I bought the stuff at NAPA.

http://editions.amospublishing.com/A...928&pagenum=30

[Antique]

Originally Posted by theamcguy

Here is an article on an interesting alternative to paint. I bought the stuff at NAPA.

http://editions.amospublishing.com/A...928&pagenum=30

Looks very interesting.I plan to try it on my 389 manifolds and will post pics when I do. I would like to see a block and heads done with that method. Would look neat on a rat rod.