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  #21  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin Poe View Post
Is it really possible that the forged crank could be flexing causing excessive wear to the mains or could it be something else? I ask this because the top of my 2 and 3 mains were showing more wear then the rest also. If that is the case, then maybe I should look into a billet as well.
Yes, I've seen signs of this also.

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  #22  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:42 AM
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I just want to show when aluminum rods come apart they can wad up into a mass and put alot of pressure onto the block walls . GRP rods brand new 8 runs not saying it's the rods fault just that aluminum can cause just as much destruction as steel or even more twice experienced this time going Olivers would have went Carrillos if i had of know more about them at the time , Tom Vaught gave me insight to them but had already had the Oliver rods in which i'am comfortable with also.
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  #23  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:49 AM
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Whats the difference between Oliver & Carrillo? Or should I ask Why Carrillos over Olivers

  #24  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:57 AM
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Whats the difference between Oliver & Carrillo? Or should I ask Why Carrillos over Olivers
Carrillo is the best steel rod you can buy.

Carrillo's are H-beam design, considerably lighter than the I-beam Oliver's. I have a set of 7" Carrillo's that weigh just over 600g.

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  #25  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:11 AM
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Interesting. I have always heard Oliver's were.

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:13 AM
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Whats the difference between Oliver & Carrillo? Or should I ask Why Carrillos over Olivers
Honestly at the time when i made my decision to go steel i knew only of Oliver rods back in 2010 , my new engine builder likes them but, just recently i've been seening Carrillo's name on alot on Pro stock stuff and just have this mind set to run the best that i can get. I being trying so hard get a build that would last so spare no expense to the rod . So after talking and checking into Carrillo rods they also have a good rep and there bolt program in which i do know now can be purchased and put onto my Olivers. Carrillo would just be the next step up thats the only reason i say this.

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Last edited by beastmaster; 01-22-2013 at 01:19 AM.
  #27  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
Honestly at the time when i made my decision to go steel i knew only of Oliver rods back in 2010 i my new engine builder likes them but, just recently i've been seening Carrillo's name on alot on Pro stock stuff and just have this mind set to run the best that i can get. I being trying so hard get a build that would last so spare no expense to the rod . So after talking and checking into Carrillo rods they also have a good rep and there bolt program in which i do know now can be purchased and put onto my Olivers. Carrillo would just be the next step up thats the only reason i say this.
Maybe I should of done a little more home work I guess, As I just built a new 535 with Oliver's. But low to mid 800HP I think I will be fine.

  #28  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:47 AM
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Maybe I should of done a little more home work I guess, As I just built a new 535 with Oliver's. But low to mid 800HP I think I will be fine.
I'am absolutely not taking anything from the Oliver rods i've have them building a 535 also with hopefully a couple hundred hp over 800 . They should be good up to approx 1200-1500 hp. Trying to find the HP rating to be positive on this statement.

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  #29  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:03 AM
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[QUOTE=beastmaster;4836703] building a 535 also with hopefully a couple hundred hp over 800 .

Nice! Good luck with you build!

  #30  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:08 AM
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http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...s/viewall.html

thanks XSIVPWR

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KK163BxD9EY
  #31  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:21 AM
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Pankl,Lentz and Carrillo,Callies Ultra and Manley Pro-Billit USA mfg. all excelent choices.Bill C.

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  #32  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65nss4spdGTO View Post
Carrillo is the best steel rod you can buy.

Carrillo's are H-beam design, considerably lighter than the I-beam Oliver's. I have a set of 7" Carrillo's that weigh just over 600g.

Calvin Hill
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600grams!!!!!!!! NO STUFF!!!!? ????WOW!!!!!!




Kelvin I'm glad you decided to pull the motor down to give it the once over. I think you got lucky. I'm glad nothing was hurt other than the cracked rod! Hope you get the car back together and going this year! I gotta say when we ran in that quick 16 a couple of years ago that,THAT was still the coolest loss I ever had! Your car looked AWESOME going down the track at 150+at the stripe!

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  #33  
Old 01-22-2013, 11:32 AM
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Unforunately, I have seen this damage before with a Series 5300PRO GRP rod with a large end sized for Pontiac dimensions (2.375" diameter). You are very fortunate not to have a destroyed engine.

  #34  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:05 PM
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Aluminum rods are ideal for violent power-adder engines that need the cushioning effect to keep from beating up the crank. But they are life-limited and have to be changed religously at whatever interval the vendor specifies.

For an application that is expected to go several hundreds runs (or more) maintenance-free, steel would be a better choice.

Eric

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  #35  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:34 PM
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You should be fine with the Olivers - I ran them in both motors for years with no problems -- even at power levels approuching 2k hp.

  #36  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfmcnc View Post
Pankl,Lentz and Carrillo,Callies Ultra and Manley Pro-Billit USA mfg. all excelent choices.Bill C.
Pankl & Lentz are the best out there! The others are affordable alternatives to them, imo.

  #37  
Old 01-22-2013, 03:05 PM
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Congrats on catching that before a major catastrophe occurred.

Were you running gas or alcohol?
(seem to think it was alky, but you know what they say about memory )

BTW, Happy Birthday!


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  #38  
Old 01-22-2013, 04:32 PM
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Crower Billets are strong rods too.

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  #39  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:10 PM
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After 4 years and over 200 passes with my GRP rods they look NEW, had them check and there was nothing wrong with them, I did replace them last year. I've ran steel rods (Oliver, Eagles & SD factory rods) and every time I inspected my rod bearing they fell out, with my aluminum rod my bearing always look great and fit tight. I would never run steel again of course I do run a Blower.

Kelvin, after 350 plus passes I think they (rods) held up great and you without a doubt got your moneys worth out of them! Good Luck!



GTO George

  #40  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnta1 View Post
Congrats on catching that before a major catastrophe occurred.

Were you running gas or alcohol?
(seem to think it was alky, but you know what they say about memory )

BTW, Happy Birthday!

Yes, alcohol, John.

...and thanks for the happy birthday, I turned the big 5-0 today.

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