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#21
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Do you actually route the positive cable through (and under) the fuel pump lines as shown in the illustration?
What about: a) Potential for gas leaking on battery cable? b) Chafing against the metal lines and/or clamps? |
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#22
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I noticed that too and don't really understand the purpose of that...I wouldn't worry about duplicating that exactly. I would put it where I was most comfortable with it. After all, we've all kind of decided in this thread that we don't always like the way the factory did things...so, we do them the way we want them.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#23
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Quote:
Not squeeze them into that space above the motor mount where the ram air tube would go? The reason I ask is that I was test fitting tonite and running the cable and harness into that small space above the motor mount looks awfully dangerous. Its just inches from the bottom of the exhaust manifold. But just below the motor mount I can run it in that large space along the side of the oil pan and over the crossmember...looks a lot safer to me there... |
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#24
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That's where I put mine. It just floats there in that triangle formed by the crossmember, oil pan and motor mount. .
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#25
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That's what I said.....run the wires in that huge space next to the oil pan rail.
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#26
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Did you secure it in any way?
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#27
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No, wasn't necessary. The wire, in my case anyway, was stiff enough to stay roughly where I put it...Especially after attachment to the starter/solenoid. Of course, it is attached here and there along the inner fender where it leaves the battery terminal. It is then run down between the head and the alternator/power steering bracket. All of that keeps it pretty stable.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#28
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Quote:
I assume you avoided running it under the fuel pump? |
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#29
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Keep in mind, I'm not doing a concourse resto...I attached mine where I wanted it and where it looked neat. There were various holes on the inner fender already so I used some factory cable ties I had around and snapped them into the holes where needed to just neaten up the engine compartment.
I did try to run it as close to factory as possible considering the fact that I was running it past the front of the drivers side head, rather than back by the number 5 exhaust port. I referred to the '69 assembly manual for correct routing of the cables and adapted for my modifications... You can just barely see two of the white cable ties on the drivers inner fender on this photo. Sorry, it's the best I have right now... One tie is for the main harness running along the fender. One, barely visible behind the radiator hose is for the battery cables running DOWN towards the frame, where the positive cable then routes behind the ps pump and alt bracket and on to the starter. Of course, the negative cable attaches right to the stud on the head in the stock location.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#30
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Quote:
Does anyone know if the + cable was ever originally fastened to the inner fender well along with the wire harness? |
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#31
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It's shown in detail in the assembly manual. I can't recall now but I'll check it out and get back...unless someone has it on their computer and could post it?
As for mine, it has various holes along the fender well..I have no idea how many have been added over the last 4 decades...at least a couple I'd wager.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#32
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I went ahead and scanned the page from my manual. The one that applies to GTO is at the top left-
Save it to your hard drive and you should be able to zoom in on it for more details. The cable that is clipped to the fender is the positive cable. It would normally run to the steel tube between the exhaust manifold and the head. I just ran both of mine together with the positive cable continued below the engine and down the oil pan side. I just put the clips where they'd be functional and with no real regard to whether they would look 'correct'....I just want them to look neat and be functional and safe for my purposes.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 03-17-2013 at 11:27 PM. |
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#33
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Quote:
I don't want to pull it too far toward the firewall as that will require a 90 degree bend in front of the exhaust manifold to get to the starter. |
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#34
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Once you start doing this, it'll be pretty clear how to route the wires.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#35
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So I finished the wiring of the starter. I went with the routing below the motor mount as described above.
As advised here you need to position the cable and wires toward a 7:30 position as the normal positioning will run into the bottom of the motor mount. My starter solenoid has a small stud opposite the one that has the purple wire on it which is not in use. Is that live? I was concerned with any portion of the cable contacting that stud in the 7:30 position so put a vacuum cap on it with a little RTV. Using the Ram Air harness and cable was probably a good idea as the cable and wire run along the oil pan, touching only the block, no where near the exhaust manifold and with nothing to chafe them. I just wish there was a little more length on the harness wires. Since you are running under the original position it uses more length and the wires are almost snug once the starter is up in place..almost snug, not actually pulling...I think that given my options of the Non Ram Air harness and tube or Ram Air harness and tube the Ram Air harness without the tube was the right way to go. So now I just have to hope it all works. I just have to finish wiring the neutral safety and then attach a battery...will have fire extinguisher handy...
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"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." Thomas Jefferson 1969 GTO Convertible 1970 Torino GT 429/SCJ 1968 Corvette 427/435hp 1998 Corvette Pace Car 2015 Challenger FF R/T Classic |
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