[ponyakr]

there are lots of other heads you can use 2 build a lower comp 455. the 4x & 5c are just 2 that come 2 mind. any of the heads that came on 350's & 400's will raise the comp of a '71-'76 455 with original heads. but be aware that some heads along in the '72-'73 period either did not have all the exhaust bolt holes drilled or didn't even have a boss cast in the heads where a bolt hole should be. again, if you want these head #'s just ask on just about any forum on this site--there are lots of guys here who know all the #'s. i would just avoid these heads totally. now--here's another area where my opinion will differ from most. starting in '71 455 heads had huge chambers 2 reduce the comp down into the 8 range. these heads are useless on a 350 or 400 & are considered junk by most. now i'm not talkin here about '71-'72 455 HO heads or '73-'74 455 SD heads, but only '71-'76 455 d-port heads. the 6H is an example--probably around 124cc chambers. these don't make much comp, but you still have that long 4.21 stroke for low end tire melting torque/starting line jump. of course, the big advantages are that you can use pump gas with no additives & it should be very easy on head gaskets. naturally, it will produce less power & higher ets--but with the rite combo of parts--still no slouch. 1 more advantage i just thought of--initial purchase price of cores should be extremely low. if you can find a pontiac guy whose been using 455 blocks for very long--he probably has a stack of these big chamber heads(if he hasn't sold em for scrap) in the corner of his shop & may give you a set, just 2 get em out of his way. there was probably a time when i had at least a dozen sets--cause every single 455 i bought had a set on it. i never used any because i had plenty of hi comp heads 2 race with. i would consider a low comp 455 a good, low budget gbt motor, which would probably run hi 12's to mid 13's in a lite bracket car like the '68 birds we raced. at our local track, there is no min et required 2 run in the no-e footbrake class--so 2 run 10's & 11's is just spending $ you don't have 2 spend 2 be competitive in the class. but if you just wanna go quicker & have the $ 2 burn--pull out your wallet & make it quicker! just know that you don't have 2 go fast 2 have fun & win races. we won dozens of races running in the 13 sec range against lots of 10 & 11 sec cars. all ya have 2 do is learn enuff about it 2 beat a few chevys!

[ponyakr]

now, here's something i know many will disagree with. 1st let me say that i think d-port iron heads that cost in the $1500 range is rediculous unless you need 2 make every last bit of power you possibly can, runnin in a class that requires iron heads. otherwise, when you get that close 2 the $2000 mark, i think its time 2 switch 2 alum heads. that was not an option for me in the old days, but now it is. here's another fork in the road where i'll take the 1 less traveled. for street & any bracket racin down into the hi 10's, i say a d-port alum is plenty & is definately good gbt--they're a little cheaper initially, but get cheaper quick when you buy new headers. as most know, round ports are now around $600+. a hedman d-port is around $250 new & there are lots of cheap used 1's out there. i'd suggest that if you insist on round ports you find a good used set of headers before you buy the heads. again, if you've got the $ buy k hi-ports & new dougs & go rite on down the road. but if your budget is not unlimited, d-ports will save $$$. as for the choice between k or e d-ports--i don't know. i've read that e's have heli-coils in some of the bolt holes, instead of threaded alum. but, they have the heat riser 2 warm the intake on cold mornings. i don't consider this a drawback. i never filled a single heat riser--just used mr.g 502g intake gaskets with the thin metal block off plates--never a problem. but, if your race only, fill em if you like. if you got a little more $ & wanna go on down into the 9's--k hi-ports will getcha there for less than $3000. but its the rest of the 9 sec stuff that will cost ya! convertor, tranny brake, hd rear, dom carb, intake, roller cam set up, lifter bore brace, 4-bolt caps, extra hi-$ machine work, etc, etc, etc. 9 sec everything is hi-$ & is definately not gbt. but if you got the green--go for it! & if you really wanna have some fun entertainment, get yourself a big bowl of popcorn, or your favorite snackfood & a big soda pop(or your favorite tasty beverage), then pose this ? on the race forum--"whats the best way 2 build a 9 sec bracket car on a limited budget?" then just sit back & relax & enjoy the show!

[ponyakr]

well, its time for me 2 admit my ignorance again. some things are just so simple that once you learn how--you wonder why you didn't know that long ago. ex: lately i've had problems gettin pics 2 upload from my camera card during hi usage times on py. many times i had quite a bit of text typed before i tried 2 upload the pics & when they wouldn't go thru--i lost the text & had 2 retype the whole thing later. i asked for help. the solution somebody offered was 2 just upload the pics 1st. if they go thru--THEN add the text. so, why didn't i think of that? it is so simple! well, here i am again--1 of those simple things i did not know but had wondered about. i'd seen some of those neat little smilies people put at the end of a post & wondered how they did that. then i saw 1 of them under the post text space & decided 2 click on 1 & see what happened--low & behold it magically appeared at the end of my text. but some, like the popcorn, i didn't see--assumed those who posted those got them off of some program on their computer. i mentioned it 2 TJ yesterday & she took a quick look & quickly said "why don't you just click on the word "more" under the other smilies". now--wasn't that difficult. i coulda been using all those cool smilies all this time & was just 2 dumb 2 know it. have ya'll ever done anything dumb? boy, it really makes me wonder what other simple things i don't know about & which one of them i'll discover next. anyhow, now that i've seen all the smilies, i can think of so many posts where i would have used certain 1's. but i just found out you can't go back & edit old posts. but some are just crying out 2 me for a certain smilie so instead of recalling the whole post--from time 2 time, as i recall some i may just mention the post # or the jist of it & show the smilie i would have used if i'd have known about them. all this may sound silly 2 ya'll, but i've always had a good sense of humor i suppose & it'll just make some posts a little more fun for me.

Edit: I also just learned how to "copy and paste" - saves me a lot of retyping! Better late than never to learn new tricks, huh?

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

ok, the shows over. so now its time 2 head out on the hiway & make the scene at the mickey d's cruise-in about 50 miles away. mb leads the way & mikey falls in behind, as they slowly drive off 2 have a little more fun with their old pontiacs. & as mb put it, nobody was mad at em & cussin & wantin 2 fight because of some incident on the dirt track. maybe not quite as exciting as racing, but a lot of fun & much more peaceful. ps: as we sat behind the cars & talked i'd noticed the hard street tires on the cars & thought about how helpless they were behind the 455's, so i asked the boys "ya'll ain't out there doin burnouts & leavin black marks up & down our public hiways are you?" mikey said "naw dandy don, you know we wouldn't do anything like that"---i say r-i-g-h-t !

here's the smilie i'da used if i'da known about it. would've also used it on post 331 & all those from earlier in my story where i talked about gear grabbin in my ole goat. & it'll probably come in handy later on down the road!

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

and the winner is----hey, its mikey! & mb's red bird is 3rd. congrats guys--ya'll really put it on them chevys--just like in the old days. TJ loves the color of mikeys car--as he was holding his trophy, he said "you know, i didn't much like the color at 1st, but now its beginin 2 grow on me".

i would like 2 now officially present the m&m boys with their show trophies.

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

while we were talkin at the show, i managed 2 get mb 2 relate 2 me 1 of his dirt racin tales. he said he'd tell about his best ever dirt performance. this was his 2nd dirt racer. his 1st had been a '68 bird. i bought both cars from him, when he was thru with em. he thinks this car may have been a '73--not sure tho. he ran a 400 with ra4 heads & cam, rhoads lifters, a st300 tranny, 12 bolt rear, & 2 radiators--1 behind the seat. the carb was a hawged out 650 holley 2-barrel--i think they flowed something like 890 or some rediculous #. ok he'd already won the points champ 2 years runnin at this track & the points chase was over--it was an end of the year race. he said he would have 1 the points champ at another local track, but they shut the track down with 2 races left. anyhow, back 2 this race. mb won his heat, but it was the sec heat which put him on the front row, outside. there were 12-15 cars in the feature which can be quite a crowd on a short narrow dirt track. the flagman trys 2 keep the field bunched up tite instead of spread all around the track. so there is always lots of bumping when coming towards the flag for a start or restart. this time was no exception. after the green, wb pulled ahead, but was still on the outside. the 2nd car on the inside row hit the 1st car & knocked him over into wb, cutting down a tire & bending a wheel, so wb went 2 the pits 2 change it. when something like that happens before a lap is completed, they usually give the pitting cars time 2 get back out into their original position. but mb's wheel was bent so bad they couldn't get the lug wrench on 2 of the nuts, so they had 2 use a crescent wrench 2 loosen them. so the flagman decided 2 go ahead & restart the race without wb. by the time he pulled back onto the track, the entire field had just passed him heading for the restart. all he could do was just fall in behind & play catch up. he said if he had still been runnin for points, he would not have done this. but with nothing 2 lose, he decided 2 just let it all hang out & see what the old pontiac would do. said he drove like a wild man(remember he was still known as wild bill at this time) said he passed em rite & left, hi & low, whatever it took. finally got up 2 4th behind the #2 & 3 place cars which were battling it out for 2nd. he was on such a tare, he passed both of them with 1 move, which put him in soul possession of 2nd place. so he set his sites on the leader---then he came back into his rite mind & remembered that he had a 12 bolt car rear end with stock axles(of which he'd broke several) he knew that as hard as he'd run comin 2 the front, 1 of those axles mite be just about ready 2 pop--so he reasoned that 2nd would be much better than last, with a dnf. so he just fell in line behind the leader, a safe distance ahead of the 3rd place car, & followed him 2 the checkered(about 4 laps). he said that with truck axles, or hi dollar car axles, he could have easily won, but just didn't wanna take a chance that nite. so he considers this 2nd place finish his best race ever. & it was lots of fun 2, cause all them cars he passed wuz hi winding small block chevys. i just love a good "1 pontiac beats all the chevys" story--don't ya'll?

here's a well earned trophy for a great finish in a hard fought battle!

[ponyakr]

rocker studs--you can probably get by with the stock 3/8 bottleneck studs up 2 , but no bigger than a ra4 cam w/1.5 rockers. i can say this because thats what i did--with never 1 broken stud. i ran stock rockers w/the cheapest poly locks i could find--at the time i think that was mr. g brand. i don't know if 40 year old rockers & studs will hold up or not--20 year old stuff did. but i feel safe in saying don't try using 40 year old valves--2 many heat cycles. i personally know a local pontiac man who tried 2 get by with original valves & 1 broke, causing extensive damage--& that was at fairly low, supposedly safe rpm. pushrods--i ran stock pushrods with pipe cleaners in the hole--no problems. bought some chrome moly(don't remember the brand) for the cc .525 lift cam i mentioned--stock length with stock rockers. now--with all things considered, here's what i would recommend as get by head tech for a 12 sec bracket car. an as cast 6x, 4x, 5c or similiar head 2 keep comp in the 9's. new ss valves with a common 3 angle valve job. exotic super 5 angle, hi $ jobs won't help much without a full port job. surface the head only enuff 2 make sure its flat. use the cheapest 7/16 studs you can find--new arp's are among the highest. use steel 1.52 roller tip rockers(less wear on valve tips) cc are highest, prw may be cheapest. buy stock replacement pushrods--summit sells em for under $30. put pipe cleaners in the pushrods--they worked for me--1000's of passes. these pushrods will work for a cam up 2 my gbt choice--the spc8 melling ra4. if you insist on a bigger cam that requires stronger springs, then you'd better buy the hi $ pushrods with a restricted hole. they are well over $100, but you can get any length you want. "if you want more go, it'll take more dough!" if your gonna spend more than this on heads, you should probably just try 2 find a good set of ready 2 run heads or go ahead & switch 2 alum. most good used alum i've seen aren't much cheaper than new 1's--& BUYER BEWARE of stripped threads & other damage on used alum--in case you haven't found out yet--not everyone is honest & forthcoming! 1 more thang--since the head bolts may also be 40 years old--new 1's are probably a good idea. i'm sure others on this site would do it different, but thats how i'd do it--& i have no quarrel with anyone who has a different opinion!

[ponyakr]

when i 1st discovered the py forums site thru a pontiac racer friend, i was delighted 2 find so many pontiac guys talkin about pontiacs & racin. as i went down the list of forums & subjects, the race forum caught my eye. i saw the street forum, but i thought "i don't have a street ride anymore, just race(in my mind) cars". so i started tuning in whenever possible. i thought it was great that guys could trade info about racin pontiacs. i thought about how great it would have been if i'd had this source of info when i 1st started racin. would have saved me lots of $, hard work, frustration & lost races. as i thought about this more & more, i thought, "why don't i share some of what i learned thru trial & lots of errors, with guys on the race site who may be just getting started in bracket racin or wanting 2 learn more about it". so i began 2 think of what i'd learned, that had allowed us 2 win lots of races, that i could share. i decided that there was so much info involved that it would take several small posts 2 share it all. so i decided 2 call the series "how 2 win more races"--then began 2 post em--thinkin it would help some & would be welcomed info by many--you know, like advice from somebody whose been there & done it. but what i did not realize is that i was treading on "Holy Ground". wow, i was like the lamb 2 the slaughter. i had no idea what i was about 2 encounter. 2 me, it was what i would call a tramatic experience. it definately must be included in my pontiac story about "where i came from" so i've looked back over some of those early posts for facts 2 relate in my ongoing story. if you haven't already & your interested, you can read all about it in my posting history.

[ponyakr]

i've read back over the "how 2 win more races" series at least a dozen times or more, & TJ's read it. we agree that all the info presented is accurate(except of course for all the typos & misspelled words, bad grammar, bad sentence & paragraph stucture, etc., which several on the race forum were quick 2 point out several times). the procedures & methods presented are exactly what we used racin our pontiacs--which produced the results you've read about, if you've followed my whole story. but from the very start, the negative attacks began. when i said most bracket cars run a pg tranny & that they would probably reduce traction problems & produce more consistant et's--some came on imediately saying the pg was no good for pontiacs cause they wouldn't hold up in a heavy car--said th400 was best. i told them we used th400's in all our racers, but that did not seem 2 register. when i said i thought it was better 2 be at the slow end of your bracket than the fastest car--& gave the reasons why i felt this way--several quickly gave their opinion that it was much better 2 be the quickest car(which very few can afford). they told me & everybody else tuning in, in no uncertain terms, that my info was wrong & that i was an idiot & some even suggested that i leave the pontiac site & gave me some websites of other makes i could go 2. well i reckin my mouth sorta hung open. i could not believe what i was hearing! i thought my ideas & experiences & lessons learned from racin would be gladly excepted--boy, was i ever wrong! & once a couple of guys attacked me, more began 2 join in. it reminded me of school bullys. they'll find 1 guy 2 pick on, then all join in against him. it was also similiar 2 wild animals that hunt in packs. they'll usually pick out a weak or injured animal & gang up on it--each 1 tearing at it til it's dead. i mentioned that i had once tried a th350 out of an 11sec chevy, but it would not hold up behind my 455. 1 guy questioned that i had run a chevy trans behind a pontiac motor. well, that tipped his hand about his level of expertise, because as most of you probably know, the dowel pin & bottom holes match up & adapter plates are available 2 match the others. i made my own from a piece of 1/8 sheet metal.

[ponyakr]

it seemed that several of the boys were having a hilarious time devouring me for lunch. you see, what i did not realize was that the word "race" in race forum did not include 20th century, old school, footbraker bracket racin, which is the only thing i know anything about. race, 2 them, means 21st century, non gm, aftermarket parts--except for the guys who can't afford an aftermarket block & a few others who they have let into their inner circle. they suggested that i take my nonsense 2 the street section, which i did. their race cars, for the most part, run heads-up, all out classes, using tranny brakes, hi-stall convertors, electronic everything & hd everything. a lot of them talk down 2 anybody runnin slower than 9's. they're lookin for 8's & 7's & even 6's. but, you see, i didn't know all this when i 1st tuned in--but they let me know quick! so, at their suggestion, i moved over 2 the street section. i fit in better there. my stuff is more street/strip or slow footbraker bracket racin. but, then i think it was a moderator who said i should post my stuff on the "your best pontiac stories" forum--so here i am. i don't post much on the race forum any more, but i do scan it occasionally 2 see what they're fussin about. that bully, wolfpack spirit is still alive & well in such threads as "danica haters". i read a few of those & thats all i could stand. buy now she probably don't care what anybody says--she's 2 busy racin & spending her millions. anyhow, i can look back on it now & see what i did wrong. if i would have known, i would never have posted much of anything on the race forum. but now, i can truthfully say, i'm glad it happened. it goaded me into tellin my whole story, which forced me 2 look back through our scrapbooks & pics, & search my memory for the facts of exactly how it all went down. & i can say they were mostly very fond memories, & i have enjoyed sharing my story tremendously. i can hardly imagine anybody loving pontiacs more than i do. so thanks again for the positive comments & even most of the negative!

[Greg Reid]

Don, I think you are a credit to the site. The race section is almost like the clubhouse section....Those areas are frequented by people who enjoy 'debate', let's call it...And that's all well and good as long as they enjoy it. I'm not here to judge anyone myself.
What I'm trying to say is that I'm glad you found the right fit for your personality and stuck around to tell your stories....and I know there are quite a few here who have enjoyed following along. Even if they don't respond, they are reading. You can count on it.

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Don, I think you are a credit to the site. The race section is almost like the clubhouse section....Those areas are frequented by people who enjoy 'debate', let's call it...And that's all well and good as long as they enjoy it. I'm not here to judge anyone myself.
What I'm trying to say is that I'm glad you found the right fit for your personality and stuck around to tell your stories....and I know there are quite a few here who have enjoyed following along. Even if they don't respond, they are reading. You can count on it.

many from the ole ponyakr!

[ponyakr]

head gaskets are obviously very important & have caused many problems for pontiac dudes--& i'm no exception. my 1st bad experience was with our 1st stocker motors, built by a machine shop in '75. they put McCord gaskets on it, probably because they were cheaper. they, like the napa pistons, were not up 2 the task. at that time, victor pontiac gaskets were metal & looked a lot like gm's. i used them without a problem. i don't remember when, but at some point they switched 2 some type of fiber instead of metal--cheaper 2 make i suppose. at that time, i found somebody with a small stockpile of nos gm's & bought all he had. after they were gone i switched 2 fel-pro--never had a problem with them. today, for a hi comp 455(72 or less cc heads) i would recommend either the butler metal gaskets or even better, if your budget can stand it, the cometics. this may be 1 of those areas where its better 2 spend a little more now & avoid possible problems later! if you lower your comp into the 9's, then the best fel-pros will work. & if you go really low, the cheaper fel-pros should work. i'm sure opinions will vary on this subject, so i'd pose the head gasket ? for your comb 2 some on this site who have built & raced 455's in the last few years. i'd say, just 2 be on the safe side, i'd use at least 1 notch better gasket than really nescessary, for a little ins. blown head gaskets are no fun! oil pan gaskets have caused a lot of problems, especially the ones with 3 spikes. i've had em push out between the spikes. i personally like the nitemare method. use the 5-spike gasket for late 70's 400's & add extra slots 2 the 3-spike pan--they'll stay put. even cork, when properly fitted & glued is better than the 3-spike gasket. of course the only exception 2 this is the 1-piece BOP gasket--it gets my #1 vote if you can stand the $50 pricetag. i liked the rubber gaskets on the valve covers because of taking them off & on so often. for the intakes, i've already mentioned using mr.g 502g with the thin metal shims 2 block the heat risers. but for cold northern winters, you may want 2 leave the heat risers open. for headers, i used the cheapest mr.g's. but there are lots of others 2 choose from. some of the copper & others are reusable, so if you remove the headers often, these may be cheaper & more convenient in the long run. for rear seals, i used the cadillac seals sold by H-O--never had a problem. most say viton is better. but at least 1 builder says the neoprene is actually a little tuffer than viton--i don't have a clue. for most of the other gaskets i usually tried 2 glue 1 side & silicone the other. it makes the gasket reusable in most cases. that can come in handy if you have 2 remove parts at the track. i always kept a caulking gun & extra tubes of silicone, so i'd always have plenty at the shop or track. most builders now recommend ultra black silicone. you can usually find the best prices on gaskets on e-bay or amazon, unless you can give em a free ride on a larger summit order. if you're considering the butler head gaskets, see their site for special installation instructions.

[cuz68]

I like your storys also I look for them every time i log in, You tought me something to day about the smilies i did not know, And i have been here about 12 years, I cant find it now where is that more button at?

[ponyakr]

there's 2 ways 2 call em up. here's the easiest. look at the smilies section under the text block. clik on the word [More] which is directly under the a small window will appear. then you just have 2 sit & be patient---this is a good time 2 take a break, get a snack, go 2 outhouse, etc. cause it takes a long time for the smiles 2 upload. then you can expand the screen & just scroll down thru them & check em out. you can just clik on the 1 you want 2 put in your post or write down how 2 type it out, then type it in your text exactly where you want it. i've picked out the 1's i like & will be using & am going 2 make a list of them on 1 sheet so i want have 2 wait on them 2 load every time i want 2 use 1--will save lots of time. if you do this, be sure 2 copy the words & punctuation exactly like its shown, including capitalization. otherwise it won't work. have fun!

[ponyakr]

i been thankin about some of the small seemingly insignificant stuff that i did for so long it just didn't seem that important to me--you know, just no big deal. just do it almost without even thankin about it. certain procedures just became sorta automatic. certain parts on my race cars became standard equipment on every car i built. thru the years you can pick up a lot of good ideas that will benifit you in some way--like maybe save you some time or $. but if you don't have an old hand around 2 pass these little tid-bits of info down 2 you--then you'll just have 2 learn by doing. some guys don't want anybody tellin them anything--but some are glad, even eager 2 learn. i was fortunate enuff 2 have a few of the latter type that raced with us. i taught them everything i knew about wrenchin & racin, & had the enjoyment of watching them have fun & success in racing. so i've decided 2 share all the little tips i can think of that may help some gearhead out there. i'm gonna call it "speed barn tips" (sbt). i'll just post em along, occasionaly, as i can recall em. some of these i picked up from reading tips in hr & other car mags--some i just stumbled across myself. if you are an old hand at this stuff, then you probably know a lot more than i do, so these tips won't help you & may seem rediculous--but when i discovered them, they helped me then & thru the years. this 1st 1 i picked up myself. i bought up all the goats & birds i could find that were cheap--soon had a sizable pontiac boneyard in the barnyard. that reminds me--they're gettin scarce--if your gonna do this, try 2 start your own small yard of the type of cars you want 2 fool with--its great 2 just go outside & snatch off a part when you need it! whether you have 1 or a yard full, there'll probably come a time when you need for the car 2 be able 2 roll on all fours. for a racer, you may not want 2 leave the track tires on it all week, especially the rears. & after you leave a car outside for awhile you'll have flats--some that won't air up. if you need tires with air, then it'll be real handy if you have at least 4 that will hold air. it seemed that there at 1 time i never seemed 2 have enuff spares with the rite bolt circle, when i needed em. i usually needed 4.75" bc wheels, but all i could find with air would be 4.5" or 5". so i'd have 2 jack up another car 2 get rollers. when trying 2 fit a 5" on a 4.75" 1 day, i noticed that the studs only lacked going thru the holes by just a fraction. so i got out my 3/8 drill & a carbide burr & opened the inside of the holes very slightly--just enuff for the wheel 2 slip onto the studs. it don't have 2 bolt up tite or even straight, cause it'll only be rollin very slowly for a short distance. a 4.5" wheel will require the slight enlargement on the outside of the holes. so, just scrounge around from neighbors & friends & gather up lots of air holders(don't matter if they're wore out) & if they're not the rite bc grind on em just a bit & you'll have plenty of spares 2 move your roller. if you don't have a 3/8 carbide burr, you need 2 get 1. it has been 1 of my handiest & most used tools.

[ponyakr]

i just noticed that i said carbide bit, instead of carbide burr in sbt #1--tried 2 edit but a notice came up that you only have 65 minutes 2 edit & my time had expired. anyhow, i recommend a round tip(not a ball) 3/8 carbide burr--they are very handy! sbt #2 is very simple. on a race car you need catch cans for certain liquids--such as radiator overflow & oil from the valve cover breathers. for the oil, i used the breathers that come in a vac-u-pan system. instead of letting the oil blow out onto the valve covers, just run a piece of rubber hose from the tube on the breather into a tin can of some kind attached 2 the inner fenders or mounted somewhere convenient in the engine comp. i used small mouth cans such as large brake fluid cans or large lead additive cans with a mouth slightly larger than the hose. today these type cans are probably plastic. if you have plenty of $ 2 burn, you can just buy the nice lookin hi-dollar chrome catch cans. since these cheap trick cans don't have a drain plug, you may want 2 rig em so they are e-z 2 take out & drain. when i started racin i still had a big roll of rebar tie wire left over from my ironworker days, so i used it 2 secure the cans--it was not rocket science, but it worked & cost nothin! i always had the wire in my tool box so i could do quick makeshift repairs as needed. duck tape & tie wire are 2 gearhead necessities! make sure the rad catch can is tall & big enuff so it won't allow sloshout. if the hose is not a snug fit, you can wrap it with duck tape 2 take up the slack or use a short piece of slightly larger hose over the smaller hose & can neck, with clamps on both ends, if needed. it don't have 2 be airtight--better 2 leave it slightly vented. it ain't purty, but it works(or at least i know it did in the 20th century!

[ponyakr]

there are a few basic items i feel are almost necessities for the bracket racer or even street only guys. 2 me, they are almost as basic as a good set of vise grips, crescent wrench or socket set. the 1st is a small portable gas generator. they are avail from many sources, including online. i like 2 buy them from tractor supply. they sell a 2000w & a 3000w. i've bought both. they are about $200 & $300 respectively. they worked just fine--& if you'd like they sell an extended warranty. if you have unlimited funds, you can buy a honda. but you can probably just use a cheap 1 til it quits then throw it away & buy another 1 much cheaper--probably 6 times or more--honda is real proud of their gens. next, of course, you'll need a good hd batt charger w/a 200 amp engine start setting. i bought 1 from auto zone for about $100. if you don't run an alternator, you'll have 2 charge the batt between runs. next, you'll need a small portable air comp--summit & sears sell a 125psi unit for $125 or so, & of course, there are lots on e-bay & amazon even cheaper. you may have a good air comp in your shop at home, but it can't help you at the track. we use 2 try & get by with just a couple of portable air tanks, but sometimes thats not enuff--especially when some low buck racer parked next to you needs 2 borrow some air. the next item you should already have--its a good quality electric 1/2" drive impact wrench. i tried an air impact but got tired of hearing the comp cut on every time i used it. for me the electric is the only choice--i have a DeWalt brand that i believe i bought from home depot back before i even knew ebay or amazon existed--it's worked flawlessly. they save lots of work & time especially with jobs like changing tires. if you don't have 1 yet--when you get 1, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. these 4 items will make life a lot easier & races more fun & less work!

[ponyakr]

this tip is about batterys. ever have a corroded batt term cause your vehicle to not start til you got out(wherever you happened 2 be) & cleaned it, or at least wiggled it back & forth 2 get a better connection? sure, we all have--ain't no fun is it? & somehow it seems even worse & more embarrasing if it happens on your race car when anybody else is watching! well, here's what i like 2 do. 1st, buy a batt w/both top & side posts. 1 is called a 34/78 series. a smaller 1 is called a 75/25 i believe. the trick is 2 hook up both sets of posts. wal-mart sells all the top & side terminals you'll need 2 accomplish this. you can probably find some old batt cables around your shop 2 cut short pieces from 2 connect the top & side posts--if not, you can buy it by the foot at most parts stores. this will give you twice the chance of not losing connection because of cruddy posts/terms. for all race only cars i recommend using 2 of these double post batts, mounted in the trunk area. the '74 vent 2 i bought off racingjunk.com had 2 double post red top optimas mounted in the trunk, but only the top posts were connected. i got some side terms from wal-mart & connected the sides 2 tops on both batts. then i had a good positive connection which i did not have 2 worry about, + had the extra weight in the rear for increased traction--a double whammy all around! for racing, where you'll be draining & charging the batt a lot, the yellow top optima is probably a better choice--its a deep cycle type. i think its # is a D34/78. no, they ain't cheap--$185 from amazon--but they could easily pay for thenselves at 1 race, if your car won't start for the final round, because of a cheaper batt.

[ponyakr]

before we leave the subject of electric power, i'll mention this. it takes a lot of power 2 operate electric fans, water pump, ignition system, gauges, lights, starter & fuel pump. most racers don't run an alternator because it siphons off some of the engines power. & although it is true that it does take a small amount of horsepower 2 turn the alt, i think the benefits of running 1, more than overide the small power loss. it won't raise your et that much--so for bracket racing, won't really make a difference. now, especially if you run cooling fans & /or electric water pump between rounds, you have no choice--you must run an alternator & hook up 2 a good charger when you shut the engine off. if not, you will sooner or later(probably sooner) run into low batt power problems. here's 2 tips about the alt. use a 1 wire alt--it simplifies the wiring. they are avail cheap on ebay/amazon. also, i'd consider a deep groove racing pulley std equipment. they slow the alt so that they draw less engine power & more important, it helps keep the fan belt on. if you haven't experienced it yourself, you've probably heard of someone else having the problem of the belt coming off as the rpm increases. the deep groove pulley will stop this, even if the pulleys are not lined up exactly, precisely in line as they should be. the most popular deep pulley is probably the moroso brand. you can buy 1 & add 2 your alt or buy an alt/pulley combo from speedway motors for about $100. so, 2-rear mounted D34/78 optimas with both top & side posts connected, being charged by a 1-wire alt w/deep groove pulley & being hooked up 2 a good charger in the pits, should provide enuff power 2 get any bracket racer thru the final round of comp & back on the trailer. now don't forget 2 install external charging posts thru the tailite panel so you don't have 2 raise the trunk lid 2 hook up the charger. kits for this are avail at summit & elsewhere. also don't forget the external kill switch(required by some tracks)