[cnhorn63]

Replacing the passenger side header gasket on my 1978 TA with Hooker Headers, purchased the vehicle with the headers installed. Removed all bolts with no issues. Having extreme difficulty getting the rear center port bolt started. Any tips or tricks to get this bolt started. The remaining 5 bolts are easy. Appreciate any info. Thanks

[chrisp]

Get them all started 1st. before running any bolts in , bring them all in even .

[DOC]

cut the center divider and the pipes will be easier to get started and seal better. My time in between gasket changes has been great as well. going on 6 years now and only have a slight tic.

[Poncho-V]

Originally Posted by DOC

cut the center divider and the pipes will be easier to get started and seal better. My time in between gasket changes has been great as well. going on 6 years now and only have a slight tic.

Separating the center tubes from the end tubes will make the job easier. A gasket tip I use is to sandwich the factory steel shim gasket, and a regular header gasket together, with the steel shim to the head and the gasket to the header side. Never had a gasket failure with this setup.

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/s...9c1e9df3.jpg?4

[Joel Koontz]

You want to start that bolt first, or at least only slightly start the other bolts, before you install that one.

If you have any of the other bolts drawing the header up, it will be difficult, or impossible, to start that bolt as the top of the bolt will hit the header tube and won't let you get the bolt verticle to the threads in the hole.

Loosening/removing the collector can sometimes let you get the header in a better position.

They make header bolts with 3/8" heads that provide a little more clearance.

it can help to dent the tube a little bit where the bolt inserts. You can use a long socket extension and then hit is with a hammer from the side.

I have cut down some wrenches and heated/bent some to use for this project.

If you have the header off the car you can slot that bolt hole. Then you can push the header forward to get clearance to get the bolt started and then pull it back to the rear when you get it close to tight.

[Doug Hopkins]

All of the above, a lot of patience and some cursing usually works for me on my 76TA.

[MNBob]

I have the Hookers and just went though this last year. Same bolt, #4. Disconnect the collectors and make sure there is no pressure from the rest of the exhaust system. Put #4 on first. It will take a little fiddling, but stick with it and it will go.

[sts]

Using an alignment bar for bolt holes is in the list, and it's typical method of bolt alignmetn for header installs.

[misaac]

Agree with others to seperate the gasket into 3 pieces, and start all bolts loosely. I slot the bottom of the gasket bolt holes and hang the gaskets on the loose bolts.

[60man]

Am I missing something here? All the Hooker's Ive had use a "key hole" slot for the bolt hole you mention...The idea is you start it (with gasket) prior to hanging header and slip header over it and then slide it to pick up other holes..Believe this applies to both D-port and RAIV ports but not a 100% sure. Just hung a set of Super Comps...
I do know the D-ports are a Biotch......but then they all are...IMO..

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Joel Koontz

You want to start that bolt first, or at least only slightly start the other bolts, before you install that one.

If you have any of the other bolts drawing the header up, it will be difficult, or impossible, to start that bolt as the top of the bolt will hit the header tube and won't let you get the bolt verticle to the threads in the hole.

Loosening/removing the collector can sometimes let you get the header in a better position.

They make header bolts with 3/8" heads that provide a little more clearance.

it can help to dent the tube a little bit where the bolt inserts. You can use a long socket extension and then hit is with a hammer from the side.

I have cut down some wrenches and heated/bent some to use for this project.

If you have the header off the car you can slot that bolt hole. Then you can push the header forward to get clearance to get the bolt started and then pull it back to the rear when you get it close to tight.

This is covering all aspects of the task perfectly, dead-on advise. This is obviously from someone who has done this many many times!

If you separate the header tubes, you may have to re-tighten once it heats up, most likely several times / heat cycles. I've found you are better off only separating the rear tube from #8 and #7, there's less warpage/alignmnet issues that way. (the front bolts aren't an issue most of the time anyway)

There are some headers where #1 & #2 suffer the same issue as #5 & # 6 bolts, so it's best to work those 2 bolts on both sides first, at the same time. ( #1 rear + #5 rear, and #2 rear + #6 rear).

.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 60man

Am I missing something here? All the Hooker's Ive had use a "key hole" slot for the bolt hole you mention...The idea is you start it (with gasket) prior to hanging header and slip header over it and then slide it to pick up other holes..Believe this applies to both D-port and RAIV ports but not a 100% sure. Just hung a set of Super Comps...
I do know the D-ports are a Biotch......but then they all are...IMO..

I think only the super comps do, not the other, regular set. I don't believe the headmans do, either the regulars or the hustlers.

.

[cnhorn63]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. All are great suggestions. I think Joel and 60 Man have the right idea with utilizing the Key hole Slot on the Hooker's. I knew it had to be there for a reason. What a great Forum. I will button this thing up tonight.

[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by 60man

Am I missing something here? All the Hooker's Ive had use a "key hole" slot for the bolt hole you mention...The idea is you start it (with gasket) prior to hanging header and slip header over it and then slide it to pick up other holes..Believe this applies to both D-port and RAIV ports but not a 100% sure. Just hung a set of Super Comps...
I do know the D-ports are a Biotch......but then they all are...IMO..

Yep, what he said. ^^^^^^^^^^
Your going to have to pull all the bolts back out and start that bolt 1st with gasket then hang the header slide it back and then install other bolts. Collector will need to be disconnected so you can slide the header onto the keyhole

[track73]

I don't mean to hijack this thread but my last experience was just awful. I will be re-installing headers on a different set of heads on my 79 T/A and wondered if I could just use red silicone sealant instead of gaskets. We don't use gaskets on our aluminum headed stock car, just red silicone and never had a leak. Has anyone done it on gen 2 firebirds?

[Joel Koontz]

One other technique I forgot to mention earlier is to use an Allen Wrench, slightly smaller than the threaded hole size, to provide some leverage for aligning the holes, typically using the Allen Wrench in the front head/header hole to help position the header so that the other bolts(especially bolt #4) can be started, and/or turned more easily.

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by track73

... wondered if I could just use red silicone sealant instead of gaskets...

Red silicone has been replaced with copper which has a higher heat rating and better holding power, and the tech told me they only continue making red because too many people demand it and they are afraid of loosing sales if they discontinued it.

There probably isn't anything more disgusting than trying to remove the red goop from the headers and block that for some reason never bothered to set up. I hate working on engines that have been subjected to the red silicone.

A couple of years ago in another thread someone recommended Remflex header gaskets (remflex.com) as the final solution to prevent gasket failures. I bought a set, and then started recommending them to others. I probably know of at least 12 sets on Pontiac's in our area, and not one failure. In one case, #5 bolt fell out and #6 was loose, and the gasket held and was not hurt. I've never seen any other gasket hold up to something like that. They are thick, and while the company claims 50% compression, they actually compress only about 25% - but that's enough to give a perfect seal on even imperfect surfaces.

As far as a replacement procedure, I slot all the gasket holes straight down so all that has to be done is to loosen the header bolts up and slide the gasket down in place. Saves a lot of time and frustration. You just have to use a very sharp razor blade to slot the material so you don't break or crack into the port area. Even the Remflex gaskets will break if you are not careful.

[Don 79 TA]

go for some header studs or ARP's 5/16" head header bolts
they are a life saver on D port headers and make it so much easier