[Icefan71]

Gonna put the front and back glass back in the Lemans. I have new trim clips and I'll be buying 3/8" butyl tape from a local automotive paint supply store. I did a little searching on the web since I never did this before. This is the plan so far. The front and rear channels have been cleaned, sanded, spray can primed and painted. I will set the glass in place "dry" and use masking tape to mark exactly where they should sit. Then the butyl tape gets laid out and the trim clips go into place. Here's my questions.

1. I'm still not sure what to do once the glass is set in place. Do you have to press against it at all? Or do you set it and leave it?

2. I dont have the stops for the rear glass that go in the lower channel. And I dont see them in any catalogs. What can I use for that?

3. Anything else I'm missing or other suggestions?

[indymanjoe]

i put the butyl on the windshield and left the white backing on,then when i knew for sure where it was going to go on the car i peeled the white paper off the butyl working my way around the windshield..have a couple friends with ya it gets heavy.how fast are you going to do the back,i may have the clips,stops ya need.

[Rob B]

If you buy the 3M ribbon, every box should have 2 rubber stops in it that you can trim if necessary. Just set the glass in the shade (garage). Once in place, using a little pressure, push the glass down on the seal making sure your making contact of the glass to the ribbon all the way around. Then the best thing to do is let it sit out in the sun for a couple of hours and it should settle down in place for a permanent seal. Make sure you have the stops in both the front and rear window channels otherwise the glass will slide down!!! You have a little more margin for error in the placement of the glass than you probably think. Its not as difficult or complicated as you think.

[abefromen]

That tape comes in two sizes 5/16" and 3/8".

I used the 3/8" on my back window and couldn't get the trim on. Out it came and used the 5/16".....no problems then.

[Icefan71]

Ok. This is all good info. Indymanjoe, if the 3M tape comes with stops like Rob B says, then I'll be ok. If not I'll let you know. Thanks for the offer. And Abefromen, was that an A-body that you had trouble with the back window? I thought it was 3/8" for both front and back.

[Birdguy]

I strongly recommend you buy a pair of suction bars from Harbor Frieght or the like. It will be the best $15 or so you can spend on this sort of thing. They won't stick to the glass if they're dry, but will slide on the glass if too moist. A little dab'll do ya. Although my photo doesn't show it, I did put the clips in before laying in the butyl tape.

Just take your time, plan it out, and it will turn out OK.

[400 4spd.]

I've cut blocks in half if I needed more, they will still work fine.

[DOC]

Used windshield urethene on everything. No leaks. windshield goes exactly where you want it. recommend watching a few youtube videos first.

[bdk1976]

x2 on the Harbor Freight suction bars. I've put in front/rear glass by myself a few times now - it's a fairly simple task and would probably be even easier with a second pair of hands.

[2002Z4CSS]

Originally Posted by DOC

Used windshield urethene on everything. No leaks. windshield goes exactly where you want it. recommend watching a few youtube videos first.

Another vote for urethane. Butyl does not give the glass and structure to the car and can dry out over time.

[abefromen]

Originally Posted by Icefan71

Abefromen, was that an A-body that you had trouble with the back window? I thought it was 3/8" for both front and back.

Yes '67 A-body.

I thought so too but no way was my rear trim going to snap in place with the 3/8".

Maybe my car was just a freak of nature.

[Icefan71]

Guys, I looked at urethane also. But for my needs, I'm going with tape. My front windshield came from a junkyard. Its got some scratches and the milky haze around the edges. But it was cheap and its good enough for a driver. It'll suit my needs for the time being. In a couple of years, I may wanna take it out and put in something better. Also, the tape method seems easier since its already measured to a certain thickness.
It is very confusing this whole debate between tape and urethane. I found a lot of info on the web. Some love the butyl, some swear by the urethane. I even read posts saying butyl tape is illegal. But, like I said I'm going with the tape for now. Down the road, if I want a new windshield, maybe I'll think about it some more. And yes, suction cups seem like a wise investment.

[george kujanski]

I had my windshield replaced last year, he attached the clips on the A pillar before the glass went on..driving the screws otherwise would not work.

George

[Icefan71]

And to add a little more confusion, I was looking at my catalogs. PY and OPGI sell 3/8" butyl tape for my car. Ames sells 5/16" for the same application.

[3goats]

When I installed the butyl tape on my 69 the local glass shop gave me a primer and activator that is suppose to be installed to make the tape stick to the painted surface.
I used it and so far no issues.
The primer goes on then there is a drying period then the activator then dry time again and install window.It's not sold to the public but if you know anyone that works at a glass shop maybe ask them about it before installing. JFYI

[squidtone]

Icefan,
If you are using an original windshield, I believe the 5/16" is what you want to use.
If you have a new or recent manufactured windshield, they are made thinner than the original spec glass, so you would then use 3/8" butyl to compensate for the reduced thickness glass.
Also, I bought a new windshield from www.windshieldstogo.com.
you call them up, they find a local warehouse for you, and you go pick it up.
I got a Pilkington brand windshield. It was something like 130 dollars. Yes, made in China, but I believe lots of replacement glass is nowadays.
I have read not to use primer for butyl tape. I did not. Just clean painted surfaces.
The butyl sticks like crazy. Installing was easier than I thought it would be. I put the ribbon onto the car first, it was just easier for me that way. My son and I just dropped it on very carefully, pushed it down pretty good, (you can see the seal through the glass before you snap the trim back on) and it's good. And yes, use the supplied blocks to keep the glass from sliding down over time and heat. I put chamfers in the blocks to let the water run out, by the way.
I do believe urethane is better/stronger, but for these old cars, the glass is not really part of the structural integrity of the car like modern cars.
I had to remove my old cracked windshield from my 67 GTO and it was urethane. It took HOURS AND HOURS to carve out that old urethane. Butyl for me.
Good luck.
Dave

[mudslinger]

I would stick with the butyl tape.
The urethane is great stuff but if you don't have any experience with it you can end up with a heck of a mess, especially if you apply to much. You'll have it ozzing out all over the place. And it ain't easy to clean up.
We used 3/8 butyl front and rear on a 68 GTO. No problems on install of windshield moldings but the backglass moldings where a different story, too tight of squeeze.
Our moldings where kind of ruff, probably combination of bad trim pieces and the window not setting down far enough.
Found another set of moldings .
This winter going to pull back window and use 5/16 tape.

Bill