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Old 08-12-2013, 04:11 PM
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Default Power electric Windows

Are there any good power window restoration documents out there. Or a good threads here?

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Old 08-20-2013, 12:27 AM
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what do you want wiring? how to? or ??????????????? please explain what kind of car?

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Old 08-20-2013, 09:04 AM
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69 firebird. One slow window, one that opens with the drivers switch but not passenger switch and one back window that does not open or close at all. Thanks

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Old 08-20-2013, 03:35 PM
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You really need a wiring diagram. The key is that all the connections are made through the master switch, so windows can work from the master switch but it can still be bad.

Basically, the switches reverse polarity to the motor depending on the direction to run. The master switch feeds power and ground to the respective window switches when in the neutral position, then the window switch feeds the motor. The master switch feeds power and ground through the window switches (to the motors) when they're (the window switches) in the neutral position. You probably need to check voltage to the motors with a voltmeter.

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Old 08-20-2013, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LPete View Post
You really need a wiring diagram. The key is that all the connections are made through the master switch, so windows can work from the master switch but it can still be bad.

Basically, the switches reverse polarity to the motor depending on the direction to run. The master switch feeds power and ground to the respective window switches when in the neutral position, then the window switch feeds the motor. The master switch feeds power and ground through the window switches (to the motors) when they're (the window switches) in the neutral position. You probably need to check voltage to the motors with a voltmeter.
And, set you up a motor plug that you use to apply B+ to each lead separately to run the window up & down so as to check out the operation/speed before you troubleshoot opens and/or high resistance in the circuitry.

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Old 08-20-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmdclassics View Post
69 firebird.
One slow window,
Probably just needs tracks adjusted.

one that opens with the drivers switch but not passenger switch,
Passenger switch is probably bad, put one of the rear switch's on it and test.

and one back window that does not open or close at all.
Motor may be bad, wire maybe broken. check to see if wires are broken in boot of driver side door hinge area. After years of opening and closing the door , sometimes the wires break inside of the boot that carries the main power window harness from the body to the drivers door.

Remove drivers main switch. use a small screw driver to pry switch and connector out of door panel . Easier if window is up. Remove switch from connector. Use small screw driver to pry open connector carefully. Bend all the tabs on the inside to get better contact with switch pegs. Thanks
The motors and switch's are the same in most early GM cars.

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Old 08-20-2013, 09:05 PM
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On a side note, when I converted my 69 vert to power windows, I ran a ground wire (about 12-14 guage) directly attached to each motor to the inside of each door, making sure it was attached to clean metal. Windows go up and down way faster than my 2008 Impala. You must make sure your doors are good grounds. ( No paint between the door columns and hinges)

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Old 08-21-2013, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paint guy View Post
On a side note, when I converted my 69 vert to power windows, I ran a ground wire (about 12-14 guage) directly attached to each motor to the inside of each door, making sure it was attached to clean metal. Windows go up and down way faster than my 2008 Impala. You must make sure your doors are good grounds. ( No paint between the door columns and hinges)
Don't want to argue, but these motors are grounded through the wiring, not the housing of the motor. I just don't see how an additional ground could make a difference.

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Old 08-21-2013, 10:12 PM
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Not meaning to argue either, but I really have no idea how well or poorly the windows would've worked without the ground wire because I pulled the power window system from a 69 GP (never saw it operational before it was pulled). But I'm not sure I understand your statement about being grounded thru the wiring and not the motor housing. If I recall correctly, there were only two wires going to each motor which leads me to believe they are indeed grounded thru the housing. Anybody here know for sure?

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Old 08-21-2013, 10:37 PM
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Darn sure the ones in my 67 operate thru grounding of the frame. In fact, that how I tested them on the bench before putting them in. One lead for up, the other for down.

Charles

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Old 08-21-2013, 11:37 PM
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Charles, you're right (I didn't know) -- '67 motors had two windings, and applied power to one lead or the other to reverse. I don't know about a '69, but it'd be easy to test. Ground the housing and apply power to each lead and see what happens. It won't hurt anything if the windings are insulated from ground.

I can't find a '69 wiring diagram.

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Old 08-22-2013, 10:31 AM
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'72 is the same way. It grounds through the motor body and regulator housing. Previous owner didn't understand that and started tearing it all apart on my A-body. I checked with a meter and found the wiring is fine, the motor was bad (goes down but not up). +12V on one terminal and it goes up, +12V on the other terminal and it goes down - but regulator or motor must have a separate ground (or be bolted to the door and chassis ground system) to operate at all.

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Old 08-22-2013, 03:53 PM
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Personally I'd ground the motor to the inside of the car and not the door. Just run the ground wire thru the boot to inside and ground.

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Old 08-22-2013, 04:40 PM
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Default grounding power window motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by GT182 View Post
Personally I'd ground the motor to the inside of the car and not the door. Just run the ground wire thru the boot to inside and ground.
Now that you mention it, I believe this is what I did (Been a while). The rear motors I just ran a ground to the inside quarter structure underneath the interior upholstered panel. But with the doors why would it matter as long as you have continuity between the doors and the columns?

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Old 08-22-2013, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paint guy View Post
Now that you mention it, I believe this is what I did (Been a while). The rear motors I just ran a ground to the inside quarter structure underneath the interior upholstered panel. But with the doors why would it matter as long as you have continuity between the doors and the columns?

True, BUT, with the amount of current flowing there, it would be better without the hinge pivots in the path.

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Old 08-22-2013, 09:11 PM
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I took mine apart and polished the armature and worked much better.

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