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#1
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Body/Frame removal ? after much reading
hey all,
Im close to the point of removing the body of my 66 Ventura from the frame. I searched the forums and read a bunch of posts about diff methods. The one I was planning on doing was the engine hoist into the cabin connected to the front and rear seat belt mounts using graded bolts then lifting and sitting the body on 4x4s on cinder blocks while i get the frame stripped , blasted and powdercoated. Then install all the new gas and brake lines and new suspension parts before remounting the body to take to my body guy for the 1/4 replacement. Will the seatbelt mount method be sufficient ? the body will be pretty much stripped to the bone so I dont think the weight would really be a problem... Feedback ? Thanks .. Ill be posting an update to my resto thread soon with pics John
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Not all who wander are lost... 1964 Starchief 4 Dr Sedan - 389 4Bbl - Auto - Pinehurst Green/ Gold cloth 1964 Grand Prix - 389 4 BBl w SupHyd auto 1964 Catalina Safari - 63 389 200r4 auto.. 2.69 POSI rear 1964 Bonneville Vert - 389 4bbl - Auto - Ext Color - Saddle/Saddle int 1965 2+2 - WG 421 4Bbl - 4 spd - Bluemist Slate w White/black int 1966 Ventura 4 dr Sdn - 389 4Bbl - Auto -Orig Color - Barrier Blue |
#2
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That is my plan. I hope to do that in a month or so. Thought I would have been there by now. Who knows exactly when i get there.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294130
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Brad Hansen 65 Cat Ventura, 66 Cat Vert, 63 GP |
#3
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I did that method for my GTO convertible. Top down made it real easy.
For my 2+2 I bought an Auto Twirler. Put one lift on each side raised up, rolled chassis out then supported body, return lifts to front and back Secure with bolts. patrick
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#4
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Quote:
My problem is I'm working out of my garage and dont have room to get a hoist or lift in front of the car to do an end to end lift. Id heard about the single lift method using the seat belt mounts. Frankly upon hearing that the first time I thought they were joking. I really never thought that that would support the body weight without ripping out. Turns out it is a serious method. My Ventura has real solid floor pans and body shell so thats why i am planning on using that method. Thanks John
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Not all who wander are lost... 1964 Starchief 4 Dr Sedan - 389 4Bbl - Auto - Pinehurst Green/ Gold cloth 1964 Grand Prix - 389 4 BBl w SupHyd auto 1964 Catalina Safari - 63 389 200r4 auto.. 2.69 POSI rear 1964 Bonneville Vert - 389 4bbl - Auto - Ext Color - Saddle/Saddle int 1965 2+2 - WG 421 4Bbl - 4 spd - Bluemist Slate w White/black int 1966 Ventura 4 dr Sdn - 389 4Bbl - Auto -Orig Color - Barrier Blue |
#5
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Just do not use cinder blocks,my buddys car came down almost on top of him.we used 4x6x8 so the jack stands would be centered and secure on the 6 side.
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#6
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I like the sequence you outlined -- be sure to take lots of pictures! I will be doing something similiar if I can get off my @$$.
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#7
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I remember I was off and the back weighed a bit more than the front. So I just used the level. big car may be a tad heavy in the rear. Go slow have a friend you should be fine. If upon removing the body bolts and they break. just cut a small relief hole where the broken bolt is, remove and weld in new castle nut. patrick
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#8
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When I restored my GTO's and Corvette I built a balancing bar, it is adjustable in the x and y axis to fit any car. The idea was to put minimal stress on the body as it will lift it straight up.. I attached it to the lock striker holes and the the hood mounting holes on the cowl. I could adjust it to get the center of gravity so the body was perfectly balanced, a one man operation.
Please forgive me for the Vette pictures.
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1966 Bonnie Wht Convertible YK 1966 Bonnie Red Convertible 4Brl Auto Air 1966 Bonnie Wht Convertible 4Brl Auto Air C5 Corvette Roadster Last edited by joeg; 09-07-2013 at 07:21 PM. |
#9
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I will be taking pics of the process.. Yeah.. i dont own a hoist but i did buy an engine leveler.. so I was planning on using that for the lift. I havent checked yet to see if the chains reach the mounts but I will prob tomorrow. I already have a resto thread for the whole project in this forum.. I havent updated in a while but I will soon. All the doors are coming off next.. then the headliner and windshield.. then the steering column, dash and the remaining firewall stuff... ( brake booster, wiper motor etc.) I was planning on doing some work and getting pics last weekend but I ripped my back up pretty good and was down most of the week. (building a new fence facing the street with a 13 1/2 foot gate.) John
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Not all who wander are lost... 1964 Starchief 4 Dr Sedan - 389 4Bbl - Auto - Pinehurst Green/ Gold cloth 1964 Grand Prix - 389 4 BBl w SupHyd auto 1964 Catalina Safari - 63 389 200r4 auto.. 2.69 POSI rear 1964 Bonneville Vert - 389 4bbl - Auto - Ext Color - Saddle/Saddle int 1965 2+2 - WG 421 4Bbl - 4 spd - Bluemist Slate w White/black int 1966 Ventura 4 dr Sdn - 389 4Bbl - Auto -Orig Color - Barrier Blue |
#10
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You will come to find out that the "bare-bones" body doesn't weigh that much. If you have just a shell - maybe 4-500lbs (a 16 penny nail will support 500lbs as an example). You need to keep in mind that you need to lift it high enough to have the rear wheels clear the body as you roll the frame out from underneath it. So remember that lifting it is easy - making sure you have clearance on both sides of the car to clear the frame out is another story - just something to keep in mind.
On a hard top, the door openings aren't an issue, on a convertible, I'll run some angle iron from the top door mount post nuts to the door lock pillar nuts to keep the convertible body form buckling. I have a couple of 2x10's (making a 4x10) stretched across the trusses in my shop (spans 5 trusses) - a chain hoist attached to an eye-bolt that goes through the 2x10's. For a hard top - I'll strap ratchet tie-downs to the A and C pillars and then lift. To mount the body back on the frame - cut yourself some all-thread about 8" long and insert into the body mount nuts to use the all-thread as guide pins as you lower the body back down - then just unscrew the all-thread and insert the body bolts and torque them down. Easy-peasy-japaneesie.....
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Never trust anything that bleeds for five days and won't die. Last edited by 64catdroptop; 09-07-2013 at 11:01 PM. |
#11
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My 64 convertible is what REALLY needs the frame off resto.. but the thought of taking that monster off of the frame for my rookie job gave me the willies. I looked around for another project and Josh (Fat Cat 2+2) was selling this Ventura for a great deal. Seemed like a good 'get my feet wet' project .. only problem is it will never be worth what Im putting into it. My solution is just to make it my daily driver when Im done. After 20 years with no car payment maybe Ill have broken even.. lol It lasted 40 years to begin with.. if I do it right it should last another 40..lol.. Then Ill have the Ventura for everyday and the Bonneville for those awesome mountain cruises.. Once this Ventura is all done then the Bonneville resto will start right after that.. John
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Not all who wander are lost... 1964 Starchief 4 Dr Sedan - 389 4Bbl - Auto - Pinehurst Green/ Gold cloth 1964 Grand Prix - 389 4 BBl w SupHyd auto 1964 Catalina Safari - 63 389 200r4 auto.. 2.69 POSI rear 1964 Bonneville Vert - 389 4bbl - Auto - Ext Color - Saddle/Saddle int 1965 2+2 - WG 421 4Bbl - 4 spd - Bluemist Slate w White/black int 1966 Ventura 4 dr Sdn - 389 4Bbl - Auto -Orig Color - Barrier Blue |
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