Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 10-29-2013, 10:30 AM
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66bonne 66bonne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Man Taylor View Post
Make sure you have a good solid ground for the transbrake solenoid. That and higher RPM when you engage the brake should help a lot.
Good advise. I'm going to have my son try staging at a higher RPM.
Thanks, jim

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  #22  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:51 PM
Scott Roberts Scott Roberts is offline
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Originally Posted by 66bonne View Post
My tranny guy is well respected in these parts. Quite a few guys at the track have his trannys. But none of them have a big, heavy car like the Catalina. I will probably see him this weekend at the track and will talk to him about our problem.

Thanks, Jim
Just an honest question I hope u didn't take offense to. I have seen trans builders that dabled in the racing arena and it didn't workout.. sounds like you are in good hands.

  #23  
Old 10-29-2013, 06:02 PM
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66bonne 66bonne is offline
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Originally Posted by Scott Roberts View Post
Just an honest question I hope u didn't take offense to. I have seen trans builders that dabled in the racing arena and it didn't workout.. sounds like you are in good hands.
No offense taken at all. A really good tranny guy is hard to find. The guy is a racer so he has experience. Stands behind his work and has a pretty quick turn around.

Thanks for the help Scott. I'll post how it goes with the diode patch.

Jim

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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8.
  #24  
Old 10-31-2013, 11:46 PM
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Torment Torment is offline
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Originally Posted by Probird View Post
I don't believe wiring the transbrake through a relay is NHRA legal. Probably won't ever get caught unless someone has you inspected for winning too much though. Wiring to the transbrake has to be one continuous wire with no splices.

Can you get the transmission fixed so it won't move? It shouldn't move when it's set.
Ok wasn't aware... so 12v to a switch then two 12V out, 1 direct to Tbrake, 1 to relay to line lock. Then wire line lock direct or with a relay as you prefer. All your trying to avoid is the 2nd line lock switch back feeding to the Tbrake or shorting - the switched relay does that.

So all can done with one simple 4 post relay you could cut out of a parts car or buy at any parts store. I have a similar deal with a lean out tied out to my Grid but also activated with my line lock. Gdlk!

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  #25  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 60man View Post
Good info....
I have had my car "lurch" a bit forward when I released the foot brake..
I always staged at idle....guess I'll try raisng RPM's before doing that now..
Main thing with me is staging at same place each time..
Maybe lurch is responsible for my recent good RT's..
Good luck Jim...
My son was doing this quite a bit last season. He would stage the car and leave his foot on the brake. When he went throttle down the car would lurch a bit, then he'd red light. Make sure your foot is off the brake after engaging the transbrake so the trans can set. If the transbrake is working correct you don't need the line lock.

  #26  
Old 11-04-2013, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92GA View Post
My son was doing this quite a bit last season. He would stage the car and leave his foot on the brake. When he went throttle down the car would lurch a bit, then he'd red light. Make sure your foot is off the brake after engaging the transbrake so the trans can set. If the transbrake is working correct you don't need the line lock.
After I got the hang of it and how much it would move...I used the button to bump in beam once pre-staged.....May not be right but it seemed to work out..
Going to try raising RPM's next season...

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  #27  
Old 11-04-2013, 07:38 PM
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http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=611929

Troy: Take a look at my thread on YB. I got the diode patch made by Shawn at G.A.S. racing. Very easy to install. Haven't tested it at the strip yet but my test light tells me that the transbrake and line-lock come on at the same time when setting the transbrake. And the line-lock can be operated by itself for burnouts. For $25 delivered I think it is worth a try.

Jim

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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8.
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  #28  
Old 11-08-2013, 09:02 PM
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For anyone interested: My son and I took the Catalina out to test the diode patch.
Went to an abandoned parking lot nearby. Rob "staged" the Catalina as he always does.
He came up on the TB, released foot brake, brought up the RPMs and the car didn't move in the slightest. Tried it several times with the same success.

Jim

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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8.
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